Japanese Noodle Salad

We have company from out of state arriving today and tomorrow we will be taking them into Washington, DC to sample some of the wonderful sights the city has to offer. We are hoping there will be some cherry blossoms left in bloom along the tidal basin. When in full bloom it is truly magnificent to behold.

In honor of the blossoms, here is a wonderful and easy Japanese salad. This tasty dish serves 6 as a side dish, or add cooked chicken, duck or shrimp for a light main meal for 4.

Japanese Noodle Salad

• Asian vinaigrette, recipe follows
• 1 package of Japanese curly noodles, such as KA.ME brand
• 8 ounces snow or sugar-snap peas, trimmed
• 1/4 cup chopped green onion
• 1/4 cup chopped peanuts

Japanese Noodle Salad

Prepare the vinaigrette and place aside.

Cook the noodles as directed. Drain and rinse under cold water.  Transfer the noodles to a large bowl, add 1/2 the vinaigrette, toss well and set aside. Stir occasionally to keep noodles from sticking together.

Cook peas in boiling water until tender-crisp, about a minute. Drain, then rinse in cold water to stop cooking. Drain again.

Add the peas (you can cut them in slices, halves or leave them whole), the chopped green onion, the chopped peanuts and enough of the remaining vinaigrette to the noodles so that they are well coated. Toss gently and serve at room temperature.

Asian Vinaigrette
• 1/3 cup rice wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger root
• 1 teaspoon minced or pressed garlic
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/8 cup sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon hot chili oil or to taste
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Whisk all ingredients together and set aside until ready to use.

Crustless Almond and Pear Tart

Infused with the essence of almonds, this pear tart forms a cake-like batter that replaces the traditional crust. It is delicious and light ... perfect after an Easter dinner or anytime. The tart looks impressive but is very easy to make. I have switched the flour with a gluten-free blend with good results.

Crustless Almond and Pear Tart
(Serves 8.)

• 6 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 1/4 cups whole almonds
• 2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour blend)
• 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• 2 tablespoons pear eau-de-vie or pear brandy
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
• 2 firm but ripe pears (such as Anjou or Bartlett), peeled, cored and sliced

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Crustless Almond and Pear Tart

Generously grease a fluted 9 1 /2-by-1-tnch baking dish or tart pan.

In a small saucepan, melt 5 tablespoons of the butter over low heat until melted. Remove from heat, let cool to room temperature and set aside.

Cut the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter into small pieces and set aside.

Place the almonds and 2/3 cup of the sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process, pulsing on and off, until finely ground. Do not over-process or the mixture will form a paste. Transfer to a large bowl and add the flour, spices and salt. Mix well.

In a small bowl, combine the eggs, eau-de-vie, milk, vanilla and the reserved melted butter. Mix well. Add to the dry ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface.

Using a sharp knife, cut the pears crosswise into 1/8-inch-wide slices, keeping the slices together as you go. One quarter at a time, slide the pears onto a narrow spatula and set on top of the batter with the smaller end of the pear in the center and the wider end toward the outer edge-like the spokes of a wheel. Arrange all the pears in this fashion and gently press into the batter so that only the surface of the pears is exposed. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and scatter the butter pieces over the top.

Bake on the lower shelf of the oven for 10 minutes. Rotate to the upper shelf and bake 30 to 35 minutes longer, or until the batter is puffy and golden brown. Let cool slightly and serve warm, or cool completely and serve at room temperature.

How to Peel and Seed a Tomato

How do you peel and seed a tomato? This is a frequent question because so many recipes, many of mine included, call for a tomato to be peeled and seeded. There's a very easy answer ... all you need is a paring knife and a pot of simmering water.

First bring a pot of water large enough to hold the 
tomatoes to a simmer. Core the tomatoes and cut a 
small X in one side.

Using tongs, carefully lower the tomatoes into the 
simmering water. Keep tomatoes in the water just long 
enough for the skin to start to peel away. It should only 
take a few seconds.

Remove the tomatoes and either plunge them into a 
bowl of cold water or rinse in cold water under the faucet 
to keep the tomatoes from cooking.



Peel off the skin.

Break or slice open the tomatoes and scoop out the 
seeds with your hands or a spoon.

Briefly rinse them again to make sure all the seeds have 
been removed.

Let tomatoes drain on a paper towel.

Roughly chop the tomatoes to make a tomato concassé, 
or whirl it in a blender for use in a recipe.

Rockfish (Striped Bass) with White Wine Sauce

I previously admitted that I have an extreme fondness for cookbooks and have collected far too many over the years. Some, I hate to admit, I've never even used. So when I found myself in need of something new to do with my lovely rockfish filet (also known as striped bass), instead of heading to Epicurious or some other recipe site, I decided to peruse my vast cookbook collection. 

So to the bookshelves I went in search of a quick, simple recipe good enough to do justice to this mild, yet flavorful, Maryland fish.

Standing there I stared at all my cookbooks. They looked like soldiers neatly lined up, ready to heed my call. Then I spotted him, staring right back at me … there he was … Alfred Portale, the chef and co-owner of the Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village.

Nice to see you Mr. Portale. Did you know that I had the pleasure of dining at your wonderful restaurant? I found your tables to be a little snug, but we had a very enjoyable evening of excellent food, wine and service.

I took the book, a nice looking book with beautiful photographs, and plunked myself down on the couch. The book, 12 Seasons Cookbook, was the second of Mr. Portale's books. Soon I find myself in the month of September and Mr. Potale is serving up Seared Halibut with Haricots Verts, Scallions and White Wine Sauce. Sounds yummy … that would most definitely work with my rockfish, and I just happen to have a bag of haricots verts (French green beans) that I need to cook up ... kismet.

I would love to be able to create and cook like the great chefs, and don’t pretend in any way be on a par with a chef like Mr. Potale. But we do have something in common. The philosophy behind his Seasons book is to not just take into account those ingredients currently in season, but to also consider the “emotions, memories, challenges, and desires” that each month brings. He talks of “sweater weather” foods and of months that bring “nostalgia” to his dishes.

This is cooking from the heart as well as the brain and that sixth sense that so many creative people have. I think I cook a little like that, and have written about many of those feelings of comfort, home and nostalgia.

I like to know a little about the author who created the dish I’m about to make. I like to feel the passion they have for their craft. I am trusting that this person truly created the dish, that they’ve made it themselves and enjoyed eating it. Far too often, this is not the case. But somehow I can picture Mr. Portale taking a moment from a hectic September day to steal away outside to enjoy a glass of wine and his seared halibut and beans.

Back to the recipe. I had everything in the house to make the dish, and once my “mise en place” … a culinary term for having everything in its place … was set up, it took no longer than about 10 minutes before dinner was on the table. This dish is enough to stand on its own, although a side of fluffy rice could be added to beef up the meal if desired.

Precisely following the directions, I found the dish to be as easy to prepare as it was delicious. The cooking method is a perfect example of both “à la minute” cooking and pan sauce preparation. The beans provided a nice crunch, the fish was soft and flaky, the wine sauce - with the addition of the lemon and tomatoes - was bright and provided a nice acidity that was softened by the incorporation of the butter.

My husband very much enjoyed this dish as well, he said I could make it anytime. It is not only an impressive and quick weekday meal, but it would make a perfect company dish as well; both in its taste and presentation.

I later made Wild Mushroom Risotto from this same book. The risotto was creamy and flavorful. I warmed it a day later with a little more liquid and added some cooked chicken to make an easy meal. It reheated perfectly.

This book is a keeper and I plan to try more recipes from its attractive pages instead of hitting the Internet in search of my next meal.

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It is the month of September in Alfred Portale's* 12 Seasons Cookbook. He is making halibut with French green beans and it is a lovely, simple dish. Here I used rockfish (striped bass), but this recipe is perfect for any firm, white fish.

(*Alfred Portale is chef and co-owner of the Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village.)

Seared Rockfish with White Wine Sauce & Haricots Verts
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 1 pound haricots verts or young green or wax beans
• 4 7-ounce rockfish or other white fish fillets, each approximately 3/4 inch thick
• Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 5 scallions, white part only, finely sliced on the bias
• 1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed
• 1 large, ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Seared Rockfish with White Wine Sauce
and Haricots Verts

In a pot of boiling salted water set over high heat, cook the haricots verts for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender. Drain and place them in the center of a large, warm serving platter. Cover and keep warm.

Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the fish for about 3 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn, reduce the heat to medium, and cook about 4 minutes longer, until the fish is opaque in the center and browned on both sides. Put the fish on the platter with the beans and cover to keep warm.

Pour off any oil in the pan and add the wine and lemon juice. Raise the heat to high and deglaze the pan by scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Cook until the sauce reduces by half, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat and stir in the butter, a piece at a time, to enrich and flavor the sauce. Add the scallions, capers, and tomato. Season with salt and pepper, and pour over the fish on the platter. Serve immediately.

Confessions from a Cookbook Addict

Okay, I’m just going to put it out there ... I have a confession to make, I am addicted to cookbooks. Yes, my name is Nancy, and I’m a cookbookaholic.

It all began quite innocently. While in high school my friend and I perused through a library loaner of Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking to make dinner for a French class project. It was a wonderful experience. When I went off to college this same friend gave me my very own first hit, The Good Housekeeping Cookbook.

Part of My Stash

That was just the beginning. I craved one hit after another. I couldn’t get enough. I started bringing them home from remainder sections of bookstores, cloaked in brown paper bags. I was pathetic. Since then I don’t know how many have been added to my stash, but it is massive.

I’ve tried to break my addiction; going cold turkey, wearing patches, you name it. But they are so easily available. After all, you just can’t pass a bookstore without taking a peek at what’s new inside. That adrenalin rush you get from picking up some new colorful cookbook, browsing through the pages, ogling each lovely picture … ah.

So just stay away from bookstores you say. Okay, but these cookbooks sneak up on you at every turn. Just the other day, while shopping in Costco for paper towels, one leapt into my arms from a table as I was passing by. I mean, I wasn’t even looking for it … they’re impossible to get away from.

The worst of it is, I’ve never even made anything out of many of them. It is so much easier nowadays to just get on Epicurious, or some other recipe site, when in need of a quick fix.

I’m in recovery now. I haven’t bought any in quite some time; those last two don’t really count as they were on clearance and so very cheap. But you can find me hovering around the cookbook section of our local library. The library has been my rehab and has helped me through that difficult withdrawal period. The books can be mine for three weeks to sample, and I can copy those recipes I truly can’t live without.

Since being a recovering cookbookaholic, I have not only saved money, but have also saved space in the house as the cookbooks were beginning to encroach upon our living space. I’m much healthier now, my self esteem is improving and I think I may be cured.

So what shall I make for dinner tonight? Hmm, I really need to make something new from one of those many books … I'll let you know how it turns out ...

Corned Beef with Peaches

St. Patrick's Day is approaching and the grocery stores are stocked with packages of corned beef. Being half Irish I'll be wearing my green and serving corned beef for dinner on the 17th ... I have no choice, it's just the way it is.

Of course corned beef isn't just for St. Patrick's Day. It makes a good comfort food dinner any time, especially when served with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. It’s easy to make, but it does take a long time to cook so it is necessary to plan ahead. But it is worth it, not only for dinner, but for all the yummy leftovers. There is nothing better than a corned beef sandwich, a Rueben, or corned beef hash with an egg on top.

This is my favorite way to cook corned beef. The peaches really add a nice flavor to this recipe, which was adapted from Ruth Reichl's book, Tender to the Bone.

Corned Beef with Peaches
(Serves 6.)

• 3-4 pounds whole corned beef (I prefer the round over the flat, but it is just a personal preference)
• 5 bay leaves
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 tablespoon peppercorns
• 1 tablespoon prepared mustard
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 1 can peaches

Corned Beef with Peaches

Place corned beef in a large pot and cover with water. Add bay leaves, onion and peppercorns. Bring water to a boil then reduce heat and gently simmer meat for about 3 hours, until very tender.

While meat is cooking, mix the mustard with the brown sugar.

Preheat oven to 325°F.

When meat is cooked, remove from water and remove all visible fat. Cover the meat all over with the mustard mixture and bake 1 hour, basting frequently with some of the peach syrup. Remove from oven and let rest 10 to 15 minutes. Slice and serve with the peaches.

Some Sangria with Those Tapas? Why Not?

So I’ve already established that I love to graze, and what better way to graze than to nosh on tapas. As an hors d’oeuvre kind of person, I’m more than willing to forgo dinner, choosing instead to chow down on some lovely little bites of fun.

Tapas give us “grazers” permission to make a meal out of a variety of small, creative plates. It is not only acceptable to make a meal from tapas, it is fashionable as well.

Enjoying Tapas in Old Marbella, Spain

Tapas are certainly nothing new, they have been a staple in Spanish bars forever. The name tapas is derived from the Spanish verb tapar, "to cover." Originally, as the legend goes, tapas were actually slices of bread or meat used in bars to cover glasses of sherry. This practice was meant to prevent flying insects from also enjoying the sweet sherry. Tapas eventually became as important to the bar and its patrons as the sherry itself.

I’m not sure when I first discovered tapas, perhaps it was the first time I dined at José Andrés’ Jaleo Tapas Bar in Washington, DC. As do many Washingtonians, I love this restaurant. It is always fun to try a bite of something new accompanied by a tasty glass of sangria or wine.

Years ago I wanted to prepare some tapas at home. I checked out many tapas books and ended up selecting one called Tapas Fantasticas, by Bob and Coleen Simmons. I have made many wonderful little dishes from this small paperback. My only complaint is that there are hardly any pictures, and I love a cookbook with lots of pictures. I have also copied recipes from José Andrés’ cookbooks; Made in Spain: Spanish Dishes for the American Kitchen and Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America.

My husband and I have had the pleasure of visiting Spain a number of times.  We particularly enjoy exploring the smaller towns instead of sticking to the large cities.  We find the custom of enjoying tapas, especially at the outdoor cafés, helps to make our experience even more fun. Whether an afternoon snack or dinner, you simply can’t help but enjoy yourself when you are relaxing, people watching and soaking up some wonderful sight while sharing tasty tapas and a glass of sangria or Rioja … simply marvelous.

So I would encourage everyone to do what we do: recreate this fine tradition at home with family and friends, and see how much fun it is. (For more on tapas, visit my tapas post.)

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Sangria by the Glass

Jaleo makes a flavorful sangria and sells it by the glass or carafe. It is this sangria that I always order to accompany my tapas.

The following recipe, which is made by the glass, is the closest I've come to replicating this refreshing drink.

Sangria by the Glass

• 1/2 ounce brandy
• 1/2 ounce orange liquor
• Splash ruby port
• 1 ounce orange juice
• Squirt of lemon juice
• Red wine
• Orange carbonated water

Mix the brandy, orange liquor, port, orange and lemon juices in a tall glass. Add ice and stir. Pour in enough red wine to almost fill the glass. Top with the carbonated water and stir. Add fruit, if desired, and serve.

Grazing on Crostini

I’ve always been a grazer. I would have made an excellent cow, happily spending the day munching on a buffet of field grasses, clover and wildflowers; not having to worry about my waistline, as I wouldn’t have one.

My Inner Cow

Left to my own devices, when I am home alone with no one in the house to cook for, my inner cow comes out. Instead of using my culinary skills to whip up a fine dinner for myself, I tend to rummage through the refrigerator to create my own personal field of greens from which to nosh.

Let’s look in the cheese drawer, ah, a nice piece of leftover brie, ah, there’s some Manchego too! Some grapes in the fruit bin, that will go nicely, and what is that? Ah, Spanish olives, and behind them, oh I see some artichoke hearts! What’s lying around on the counter, I spy a baguette!

A few minutes later, I have my dinner. Now dessert … an ice cream container is sitting in the corner of the freezer, very lonely. I must befriend it! No need to scoop it into a bowl, I am alone, I can eat it right out of the container, saving myself the bother of washing a dish.

It’s a good thing I’m not alone too often, or I just might start to look like my inner cow. Why I don’t bother to prepare myself a real dinner, I don’t know, but I thought it was a topic worth pondering.

Perhaps I don’t believe I’m worthy of a nice dinner, maybe I’m just lazy or maybe I really am a cow … who knows. I think that it is a combination of things. Being busy all day, it is nice to have a breather from having to stop at a certain time to think about and prepare dinner.

Also, I have to admit, that my love of cooking is really not so much about the cooking itself, but more about the sharing … the giving of the food to others. I enjoy cooking because I enjoy sharing it with my family and friends. When there is no one to share it with, it takes much of the joy out of it.

So here I am, happily grazing, having figured it all out; and, I might add, having saved countless amounts of money on psychoanalysis fees.

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One of my favorite "nosh" food is the crostini. Serving up a delicious crostini as an hors d'oeuvre or snack is so simple. Enjoy them as a meal with soup or salad. Normally the ingredients are already in the refrigerator or pantry. This selection is varied, simple to make and very tasty. (Each recipe makes a dozen or so.)

Tomato, Oregano and Mozzarella Crostini

Tomato, Oregano and Mozzarella Crostini

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2 ripe plum tomatoes, sliced thinly
• 1 small baguette of French bread, sliced crosswise 1/4-inch thick
• Butter
• 1 small round of fresh mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place olive oil, oregano and tomatoes in a bowl, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper to taste. Gently mix and let stand to blend the flavors.

Lightly butter the baguette slices and place on a baking sheet, buttered side up. Top each with a slice of mozzarella then a slice of the tomato. Transfer baking sheet to oven and bake until the bread is thoroughly heated and the mozzarella is melted. Serve.

Red Bell Pepper and Goat Cheese Crostini

• 1 small baguette of French bread, sliced crosswise 1/4-inch thick
• 1 small log of fresh goat cheese, room temperature
• 1 small jar of roasted red bell pepper slices (or bell pepper salsa)

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place baguette slices on a baking sheet. Spread a layer of goat cheese on each slice. Place a bell pepper strip on top (or spoon the bell pepper salsa on top) and transfer to the oven until warm and the bread is lightly toasted. Serve.

Mushroom and Brie Crostini

Mushroom and Brie Crostini

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 small onion, diced
• 1 8-oz container of mushrooms, button or baby bella
• 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1 small baguette of French bread, sliced crosswise 1/4-inch thick
• 1 small log of brie cheese, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 350°F.

In a large sauté pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add the onion and mushrooms. Sauté until mushroom liquid has been absorbed. Add tarragon, salt and pepper. Sauté one minute longer.

Place baguette slices on a baking sheet. Divide mushroom mixture among slices. Top with a brie slice. Transfer baking sheet to oven and bake until bread is thoroughly heated and the brie is soft. Serve.

Mediterranean Crostini

• 1 small baguette of French bread, sliced crosswise 1/4-inch thick
• 1 jar of olive tapenade
• 1 jar of artichoke hearts
• Crumbled feta cheese

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place baguette slices on a baking sheet. Spread a layer of olive tapenade on each slice. Top with a slice of artichoke heart and crumble the feta cheese on top. Transfer baking sheet to oven and bake until the bread is thoroughly heated and the feta is soft. Serve.