Rockfish (Striped Bass) with White Wine Sauce

I previously admitted that I have an extreme fondness for cookbooks and have collected far too many over the years. Some, I hate to admit, I've never even used. So when I found myself in need of something new to do with my lovely rockfish filet (also known as striped bass), instead of heading to Epicurious or some other recipe site, I decided to peruse my vast cookbook collection. 

So to the bookshelves I went in search of a quick, simple recipe good enough to do justice to this mild, yet flavorful, Maryland fish.

Standing there I stared at all my cookbooks. They looked like soldiers neatly lined up, ready to heed my call. Then I spotted him, staring right back at me … there he was … Alfred Portale, the chef and co-owner of the Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village.

Nice to see you Mr. Portale. Did you know that I had the pleasure of dining at your wonderful restaurant? I found your tables to be a little snug, but we had a very enjoyable evening of excellent food, wine and service.

I took the book, a nice looking book with beautiful photographs, and plunked myself down on the couch. The book, 12 Seasons Cookbook, was the second of Mr. Portale's books. Soon I find myself in the month of September and Mr. Potale is serving up Seared Halibut with Haricots Verts, Scallions and White Wine Sauce. Sounds yummy … that would most definitely work with my rockfish, and I just happen to have a bag of haricots verts (French green beans) that I need to cook up ... kismet.

I would love to be able to create and cook like the great chefs, and don’t pretend in any way be on a par with a chef like Mr. Potale. But we do have something in common. The philosophy behind his Seasons book is to not just take into account those ingredients currently in season, but to also consider the “emotions, memories, challenges, and desires” that each month brings. He talks of “sweater weather” foods and of months that bring “nostalgia” to his dishes.

This is cooking from the heart as well as the brain and that sixth sense that so many creative people have. I think I cook a little like that, and have written about many of those feelings of comfort, home and nostalgia.

I like to know a little about the author who created the dish I’m about to make. I like to feel the passion they have for their craft. I am trusting that this person truly created the dish, that they’ve made it themselves and enjoyed eating it. Far too often, this is not the case. But somehow I can picture Mr. Portale taking a moment from a hectic September day to steal away outside to enjoy a glass of wine and his seared halibut and beans.

Back to the recipe. I had everything in the house to make the dish, and once my “mise en place” … a culinary term for having everything in its place … was set up, it took no longer than about 10 minutes before dinner was on the table. This dish is enough to stand on its own, although a side of fluffy rice could be added to beef up the meal if desired.

Precisely following the directions, I found the dish to be as easy to prepare as it was delicious. The cooking method is a perfect example of both “à la minute” cooking and pan sauce preparation. The beans provided a nice crunch, the fish was soft and flaky, the wine sauce - with the addition of the lemon and tomatoes - was bright and provided a nice acidity that was softened by the incorporation of the butter.

My husband very much enjoyed this dish as well, he said I could make it anytime. It is not only an impressive and quick weekday meal, but it would make a perfect company dish as well; both in its taste and presentation.

I later made Wild Mushroom Risotto from this same book. The risotto was creamy and flavorful. I warmed it a day later with a little more liquid and added some cooked chicken to make an easy meal. It reheated perfectly.

This book is a keeper and I plan to try more recipes from its attractive pages instead of hitting the Internet in search of my next meal.

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It is the month of September in Alfred Portale's* 12 Seasons Cookbook. He is making halibut with French green beans and it is a lovely, simple dish. Here I used rockfish (striped bass), but this recipe is perfect for any firm, white fish.

(*Alfred Portale is chef and co-owner of the Gotham Bar and Grill in Greenwich Village.)

Seared Rockfish with White Wine Sauce & Haricots Verts
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 1 pound haricots verts or young green or wax beans
• 4 7-ounce rockfish or other white fish fillets, each approximately 3/4 inch thick
• Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 5 scallions, white part only, finely sliced on the bias
• 1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed
• 1 large, ripe tomato, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Seared Rockfish with White Wine Sauce
and Haricots Verts

In a pot of boiling salted water set over high heat, cook the haricots verts for 3 to 4 minutes, until tender. Drain and place them in the center of a large, warm serving platter. Cover and keep warm.

Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Cook the fish for about 3 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn, reduce the heat to medium, and cook about 4 minutes longer, until the fish is opaque in the center and browned on both sides. Put the fish on the platter with the beans and cover to keep warm.

Pour off any oil in the pan and add the wine and lemon juice. Raise the heat to high and deglaze the pan by scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Cook until the sauce reduces by half, about 2 minutes. Reduce the heat and stir in the butter, a piece at a time, to enrich and flavor the sauce. Add the scallions, capers, and tomato. Season with salt and pepper, and pour over the fish on the platter. Serve immediately.