Chocolate Ice Cream Cake Roll

I was looking forward to having some dear friends for dinner, however, I had a problem as to what to serve for dessert. For years I've become used to making them gluten-free goodies, as my friend was diagnosed a number of years ago with Celiac disease. I would often make a nut torte or a berry trifle ... but now her husband cannot have nuts or seeds ... further limiting my choices ... no more berry or nut desserts.

I don't like to make the obvious gluten-free desserts .. Crème Brûlée or Flourless Chocolate Cake .. as those desserts are always available. I prefer to make items that she normally can't eat ... wanting it to be a special treat to dine at our house.

Some of her favorite dessert items that I make are a Pumpkin Roulade and home-made ice cream, so I thought perhaps an ice cream roll might be something she would not normally be able to have and that she would enjoy.

I find that jelly roll recipes lend themselves well to substituting gluten-free flour for all-purpose flour because the recipes are normally low in flour. The batter is usually leavened by the use of eggs. This recipe was easy to make, turned out great and was enjoyed by all.

I used home-made mint ice cream, but any favorite ice cream can be used. I saved a little of my ice cream base and added some semi-sweet chocolate to it to make an accompanying sauce, but you can serve it plain, use a store-bought fudge sauce or make a raspberry or strawberry sauce if using a plain ice cream such as vanilla.

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Chocolate Ice Cream Cake Roll
(Serves 10 to 12.)

• 8 extra-large eggs, separated and at room temperature
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour or gluten-free blend for a GF dessert
• 1 quart ice cream of choice, store-bought or home-made
• Chocolate sauce or raspberry sauce for serving
• Jelly-roll pan lined with parchment paper

Position rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F.

Chocolate Ice Cream Cake Roll
Easy to Make Gluten-Free

Combine the egg yolks and 1/2 cup of the sugar in a large bowl and blend with an electric mixer on high speed until the mixture is thick and pale in color. Reduce the speed to low and add the cocoa and flour.  Mix until well blended.

In another large bowl, with clean beaters, beat the egg whites with the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold into the cocoa mixture.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan and smooth the top to make it even. Bake until the top looks dry and feels spongy, 9 to 12 minutes. Turn the pan halfway through baking to cook evenly.

Remove from the oven and cover loosely with a lightly dampened clean towel until cool.

Meanwhile, if you are using store-bought ice cream, soften it by leaving it at room temperature for awhile, or by  microwaving it 15 seconds at a time until softened to a spreadable consistency. If making home-made ice cream, place the ice cream base into the mixture and process until it is spreadable.

Run a knife around the cake's edges. Dust the top with cocoa. Lay 2 sheets of plastic wrap over the top to extend slightly beyond the pan edges. Place a baking sheet on top and invert the pan. Lift off the pan and the paper.Trim the cake to even the edges.

Spread the ice cream to within 1 inch of the edges. With the aid of the plastic wrap, starting from a long side, roll up to form a long, firm roll. Wrap it with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil.

Freeze for a least 2 hours and up to 1 month. To serve, cut into slices and pass with chocolate or raspberry sauce.

Green Salad with Caramelized Pears

This flavorful salad can be adjusted according to preference ... walnuts instead of pecans, blue cheese instead of feta or goat, add dried cranberries to make a little more festive dish. No matter what you choose, it makes a lovely first course.

Green Salad with Caramelized Pears
(Serves 4.)

• Maple dressing, recipe follows
• 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup pecan halves or pieces
• 2 large firm but ripe pears, peeled, cored and sliced
• 3 cups mixed baby lettuce or favorite mix of greens, rinsed and dried
• 1/4 cup crumbled feta or goat cheese (optional)
• Freshly ground pepper

Green Salad with Caramelized Pears

Make the dressing and set aside.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the sugar and pecans, reduce the heat slightly, stirring constantly cook the pecans until they have a nutty smell and are slightly caramelized. Remove pecans to a plate and let cool.

Add the pears and cook, stirring occasionally until tender and slightly caramelized but still retain their shape, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool on a plate.

Place mixed greens in a large bowl and add enough dressing to lightly coat. Toss and divide the greens among 4 salad plates. Arrange the pear slices over each salad and top with the nuts and cheese (if using). Drizzle lightly with additional dressing and freshly ground black pepper. Serve.

Maple Dressing
• 1/4 cup maple syrup
• 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

In a medium bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, vinegar and mustard. Add the oil in a steady stream and whisk until emulsified. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

On Deconstructed Food ...

Perhaps one of the most overrated food fads has to be what is referred to as “Deconstructed Food.” I can’t help but think that the whole thing is a bit pretentious … and, let’s face it, a way to charge huge sums of money for a few, miserly pieces of plated food.

When I was in culinary school, my instructor proudly took his visiting parents to dinner at one of the first of these “fufu” restaurants in Los Angeles. Upon leaving, his angry dad scolded him saying “Never again take me to a place where I leave hungry after paying that kind of money!” I must say I thought this would be a short lived fad, but it has not only endured, it has grown over the years.

Making Deconstructed S'mores

I’m not sure where it all started. I think perhaps it was chef Ferran Adrià of the famed El Bulli Restaurant in Catalonia, Spain who invented the concept. Our local Washington, DC chef, José Andrés, who apprenticed under Adrià, certainly introduced the concept to this area with his MiniBar.

The concept is interesting and clever. There really is a lot of science involved in the whole thing, but I don’t think too many people spend much time contemplating the deconstruction of food. And I think even less are willing to spend their hard-earned money on these morsels.

So when the grandkids were here awhile back, I was quite shocked and extremely amused by a comment made by then 7-year old Emma while we were making s’mores. 

The scene was a bonfire on Bethany Beach … lots of kids, holding long sticks, were busy roasting their marshmallows. Among the group, Abby, Emma and Gavin were intently getting just the right char on their chunky marshmallows. We had brought along Hershey bars and graham crackers for them to make s’mores. Handing out the Hershey bars, I noticed Emma promptly started to devour hers. “Don’t you want to save it for the s’mores?” I asked. “I’m having mine deconstructed.” was the reply.

Just too funny, this coming from a 7-year old! I don’t think many adults could give the definition of deconstructed food. Who knew what a sophisticated foodie she was!

Old-Fashioned Potato Salad with Herb Vinaigrette

What says picnic, tailgate or other outdoor feast more than potato salad???

I love potato salad and don't think it just belongs on the picnic table. It has a prominent place on my holiday lunch buffet along with the spiral cut ham, deviled eggs and a green salad.

This salad is full of flavor and only gets better in the fridge.

Old-Fashioned Potato Salad with Herb Vinaigrette
(Serves 6.)

• Herb Vinaigrette (recipe follows)
• 1-1/2 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into bite-sized pieces
• 1 large celery rib, chopped
• 1/4 cup scallions, chopped
• 4 strips of bacon, cooked, drained and chopped
• 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon sugar, or to taste
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Old-Fashioned Potato Salad with Herb Vinaigrette

Make the vinaigrette and set aside.

Boil the potatoes until just tender, approximately 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly. Place the potatoes in a large bowl and pour the vinaigrette over them, mix carefully.

When the potatoes have cooled, add the celery, scallions, bacon, eggs, mayonnaise and sugar. Season with salt and pepper and gently toss. Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving; adjust the seasoning and serve cold.





Herb Vinaigrette
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon dried basil, crumbled
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl and reserve for later use.

Slow Roasted Baby Back Ribs

With the summer winding down and the nights starting to feel a little chilly, what better time to enjoy a nice slab of tender baby back ribs. These ribs are slow roasted in a low oven then finished on the grill, making them easy to prepare.

Be sure to remove the membrane on the underside of the ribs so that the seasonings can penetrate and fully flavor the meat. These ribs are finished on the grill, but can be finished under the broiler as well. They are very flavorful and literally fall off the bone.

Serve them with beans and some creamy coleslaw.

Slow Roasted Baby Back Ribs
(Makes 4 to 6 servings.)

Dry Rub
• 1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon (packed) light brown sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Basting Sauce
• 1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup apple butter
• 1/4 cup bourbon whiskey
• 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
• 3 tablespoons apple cider
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Ribs
• 2 racks baby back pork ribs
• 1 large onion, sliced
• 1 cinnamon stick, broken
• 1/4 teaspoon ginger
• 2 bay leaves
• Few black peppercorns
• 1/2 cup apple juice
• 1/2 cup grape juice

Preheat oven to 250°F.

Slow Roasted Baby Back Ribs

Dry rub – mix all ingredients in a small bowl to blend. Set aside.

Basting sauce – whisk all ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Set aside.

Ribs – place rib slabs bone side up on table. Slide knife under the membrane and against the end bone to separate the membrane from the slab. With a dry paper towel, grasp the edge of the membrane and pull. The entire membrane should separate from the rib.

Rub 1 tablespoon of the dry rub mix into both sides of each slab. Place ribs in large roasting pan. Cover and chill for 4 hours or up to 1 day.

Lift ribs from pan. Scatter onion, cinnamon, ginger, bay leaves and peppercorns in pan. Pour in apple and grape juice. Return ribs, meat side down, to pan and cover pan with foil. Roast ribs until meat is tender and begins to pull away from bones, about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. Uncover, cool for 20 to 30 minutes, then lift out of pan and lightly scrape off any bits of onion, peppercorns, etc.

Prepare barbecue (medium-high heat), or you can finish the ribs under the broiler instead. Grill ribs until heated through and slightly charred, about 5 minutes per side. Brush generously on both sides with basting sauce. Grill until sauce becomes glazed, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer ribs to a cutting board. Cut between bones into individual ribs. Arrange on platter and serve, passing remaining sauce separately.

A Bounty of Goodies from the Chesapeake

The Labor Day weekend is fast approaching, telling us the end of the summer is near. On this perfect day with mild temperatures and low humidity, as I sit typing by the kitchen’s bay window … doors and windows open, looking out over the sunlit woods as the leaves of the trees gently flutter in the light breeze, colorful birds at the feeders, flowers still in bloom … I am reminded why I love this area so much.

The climate of the mid-Atlantic region, where Maryland is happily situated, is normally moderate with no big extremes in hot or cold. The geography of Maryland is similar to a miniature US; mountains to the west, ocean to the east, with rolling hills, farmland and the beautiful Chesapeake Bay in between. This landscape plays the perfect host to a bounty of goodies.

Sweet Silver Queen Corn

From the farms we have fresh berries, peaches, melons, peppers, squash and beans. Right now we are still enjoying the wonderful tomatoes and sweet silver queen corn that this area is known for. The bay is serving up rockfish (striped bass) and Maryland blue crabs … yum!

Farmer’s markets and roadside farm stands dot the landscape, making it easy to buy directly from the grower, you can’t get any fresher than that. The county’s farmers' market is held twice a week down the road. This is the place to go, not just for produce, but also for homemade jams, baked goods and fresh cheese, right from the farm.

This bounty quickly turns into wonderful dishes. There is no other place in the world to get real Maryland crab cakes. I wouldn’t think of ordering them anywhere else. Here we use generous pieces of jumbo lump crab and no filler, just a light crumb coating. We accompany them with creamy coleslaw and crispy French fries … double yum! Don’t want crab cakes? ... then sauté a rockfish or stuff it with crab, cook up some sweet corn and toss a tomato salad.

We even produce wine in the state. Although certainly not on a par with California, Oregon and Washington, it isn’t bad.

So although we must bid adieu to the summer, we look forward to the fall and its bounty … the crispness in the air, the gold and crimson leaves upon the trees, fresh apples, pears and winter squash, apple cider donuts, no crowds at the beach, catching up with friends ... maybe leaving summer behind won’t be so bad after all …

Apple Glazed Carrots

These sweet, tasty carrots are delicious with any dish. I serve them with everything, but they especially lend themselves as a great accompaniment to foods that pair well with apples, such as pork.

Most kids like this side dish, and we all know any way to get them to eat their vegetables is a good thing!

Apple Glazed Carrots
(Serves 4.)

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 16-ounce package peeled trimmed baby carrots
• 3/4 cup apple juice
• 1 teaspoon honey
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon minced green onion tops

Apple Glazed Carrots

Melt butter in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add carrots and sauté until carrots begin to soften and brown slightly, about 8 minutes.

Add apple juice and honey and bring to boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until carrots are tender and liquid is reduced to a glaze, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl. Sprinkle with green onion tops and serve.

Chicken Saltimbocca

Every time we return from a lovely visit to Italy, I seem to be cooking Italian every night, and running around the house saying mangia, mangia! Not really, but the eating Italian part is true. The other night we had one of my husband's favorites, Chicken Saltimbocca.

Traditionally made with veal, here it is replaced with chicken, but you can use either for equally tasty results.

The word saltimbocca means "jumps in your mouth" because of the way the richness of flavors dance on your taste buds. So as we head from summer to fall, make it one of these cooler nights, it will make you feel warm and toasty and your mouth will dance.

Chicken Saltimbocca
(Serves 2.)

• 6 ounces spaghetti (use a gluten-free spaghetti or serve with rice for a GF meal)
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup cornmeal
• 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2 chicken cutlets, pounded to 1/4-inch thickness
• 1/2 cup chopped thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
• 1/3 cup dry Marsala
• 1/3 cup low-salt chicken broth
• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, cut into small pieces

Chicken Saltimbocca

Cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling, salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally. Drain. Transfer to large bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of oil. Keep warm.

Meanwhile, mix cornmeal, seasoning, salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Coat chicken in the cornmeal mixture.

Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken, prosciutto, and sage. Sauté 2 minutes. Turn chicken over and sauté until cooked through, about 2 minutes longer. Add Marsala and broth; boil until slightly reduced, about 1 minute.  

Transfer chicken to a plate. Add butter to skillet, one piece at a time and whisk until melted. Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Return chicken to skillet to coat with sauce.

Divide pasta between 2 plates. Top with chicken and sauce, dividing equally. Serve immediately.

Travels in Italy ... Delightful Lucca

Lucca … ahhh … delightful Lucca. As much as I have enjoyed all the towns we have journeyed to during our Italian adventures, none spoke to me in the sweet, dulcet tones like Lucca did. It is a people's city, it would be lovely to make it home one day.

Lucca from the Wall

There was nothing not to like about this historical city. It was, at once, both quaint and sophisticated. High-end stores joined the cafes, open markets and churches that filled the streets and piazzas. A beautifully preserved wall, built wide to withstand the force of cannon balls, completely surrounds the town. Today, instead of keeping out marauding invaders, it keeps most cars at bay, making Lucca a very walkable city.

The wall is now a 2 1/2-mile park, enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. Elevated above the town, people stroll, ride bikes, play chess, picnic, and just enjoy the views of the town as well as dramatic vistas of rolling green hills and purple mountains in the distance.

Streets of Lucca

We decided to walk from the train station to our hotel. Entering through the city gates it almost felt as though we arrived in Brigadoon. The town was a beehive of activity. Whether lunching at an outdoor table, having a lively discussion with a neighbor, or stopping to admire a handsome handbag on display; everyone appeared to be enjoying themselves on this Saturday afternoon.

Got Cheese?

We passed food stalls that would make lovers of Italian food weep with joy … copious amounts of fresh focaccia, sweets, meats and cheeses were displayed with love and available for the asking. A little further down the road fine leather goods and fashions graced shop windows. We approached our hotel, anxious to check in and get back to all the tantalizing goodies waiting for us in the town's center.

Hotel Palazzo Alexander

Pleasant and old-fashioned, Hotel Palazzo Alexander stands slightly away from the hub of activity, but very convenient to everything. We received a warm greeting from the owner who provided us with a handy city map and circled all the important attractions and shopping areas.  We were then escorted to an attractive room with nice amenities and a plate of apples, just in case we were in need of a little pick-me-up.

We headed back toward the town’s center, gazing once again at the bountiful array of food markets, and plopped down at a little outdoor café in one of the many church dominated piazzas. Some bruschettas, a little cheese, a wee bit of vino and we were good to go, ready to tackle the walk around the city on the park wall.

Lucca has had Three Walls Over 2000 Years

A photo-op at every turn, the views overlooking the city and countryside were stunning. Because we stopped every minute or two to snap a picture, it took forever to walk the circumference, but we enjoyed every second.

Later that evening, as we strolled the cobbled streets in pursuit of a place to dine, we happened upon a bar filled with locals spilling out onto the streets outside. The draw was a pretty singer who was entertaining the crowd. Lucky for us, a table for two was open outside and we joined the young group. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, feeling almost like we belonged there.

Basilica of San Frediano

Eventually we wandered off and grabbed a light meal in a nice outdoor trattoria, just perfect. On our way back, we happened upon another singer and stopped to listen for awhile … as I said, just like Brigadoon.

Next day we had a nice breakfast spread at the hotel and went out exploring again, wanting to soak up as much of the city as possible before our train to Florence. We visited a number of the many churches in town. While surveying the Basilica of San Frediano, we noticed a group of men of all ages and sizes standing in front of the shrine to the Virgin Mary. Suddenly they burst into a lovely song, and left … Brigadoon.

It's Margarita Time ...

As the summer is drawing to an end I'm thinking of all those things we didn't do, all the places we didn't visit, all the people we didn't get to see ... where did the time go?

Even though it is still warm, you can feel the change in the air, autumn is not far away. The garden is changing, the vines are turning color. A few leaves have even started to fall. So this weekend we decided to salute the summer by making a meal from the bounty left in our garden ... bell peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes & herbs. 

Some fajitas would be perfect. Why Mexican food? ... you might ask. Well we needed something appropriate to go with our frozen margaritas of course!

Years ago, while living in Redondo Beach, CA, I frequented a local Mexican restaurant called the Red Onion. It is now long gone, but I have fun memories of their great happy hour filled with free tasty snacks, Pac-Man games (yes, I'm really dating myself here) and cheap pitchers of frozen margaritas. Yum, those margaritas truly were delicious.

A bartender gave me the secret to making similar ones at home. Below I share that recipe with you so you can toast the summer too.

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Frozen Margaritas
(Makes one pitcher.)

Frozen Margarita

• 3/4 small can of frozen limeade
• 4 ounces tequila
• 2 ounces triple sec
• 1 egg white*

Place all ingredients in a blender. Fill the blender to the top with ice. Blend at high on a setting such as "liquify" and run until the mixture is slushy and slightly liquid.

Serve in margarita glasses (rim with salt if you like) and a straw.

*The egg white makes the margarita frothy and a little less icy. Leave it out if it bothers you.

Barbecue Sauce with a Little Sweetness

It's that time when grills are heating up and burgers are being flipped ... in other words ... it's barbecue time!  (Of course in my world, it also means it's time to get out the bug repellent, as I am the original mosquito magnet.)

I'm not a fan of real spicy or very hot food, so I prefer a sweeter barbecue sauce on my ribs. If you read the labels of most store-bought sauce, you will find the first ingredient to be high fructose corn syrup. Since food ingredients are labeled in order of highest to lowest in terms of quantities used, this means these sauces are made up mostly of high fructose corn syrup, yuck!

I love this sauce, it is easy to make ... most ingredients are likely to be already in the kitchen. It just takes a little time to cook everything down into a nice thick sauce. For a less sweet sauce, simply cut the amount of sugar.

Barbecue Sauce

• 2 cups ketchup
• 1 cup water
• 1/2 cup light-brown sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard powder
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/2 cup apple-cider vinegar
• 1 tablespoon barbecue seasoning

Barbecue Sauce with a Little Sweetness

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot or a Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Reduce the temperature to very low and simmer, uncovered, for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Remove from the heat, cool, and use as needed. Store in a tightly sealed container, this sauce will keep in the fridge for up to 2 months.

Travels in Italy … Parma, Full of Flavor and Charm

It is certainly far more exciting to actually travel than to sit at the computer writing about food and travel. Actually experiencing the tastes, smells and sites that other countries have to offer is a joy. We just love Italy and have vacationed there many times. It is a varied country offering a bounty of beautiful regions to explore.

Flavors of Emilia-Romagna

On one trip we started our adventure in what is perhaps the culinary heart of Italy, the Emilia-Romagna region. This region is famous world-wide for its range of food products and traditions. Gourmet delights such as balsamic vinegar from Modena, mortadella salume and tortellini from Bologna, and Parma’s famous prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, are just a few examples of the fine tastes awaiting a traveler's palate.

After landing in Bologna we headed northwest toward our destination for the first two days of our stay in Italy … Parma. Observing the old and the new, driving through both picturesque and industrial areas, we wiz past family-run farms with purple mountain views and a Barilla food-processing plant (and let us not forget the large blue and yellow IKEA store, just in case we tire of all those Italian delicacies and develop a sudden urge for a Swedish meatball).

The elegant city of Parma is a prosperous city and houses one of the world’s oldest universities. The city’s cobbled, medieval streets and squares are adorned with grand buildings, churches, museums and theatres.

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Hotel

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Hotel, located in Parma’s historic district, was our Parma home. Filled with antiques and family treasures, this renovated palace is now a small boutique hotel. The hotel’s rooms ooze with charm and history, yet the bathrooms and kitchenettes have been modernized, combining the best of the old and the new. Happily situated in the same medieval square that houses the 12th century Parma Cathedral and Baptistery, the hotel gracefully stands as a tribute to the grandeur of Parma’s past … and is a testament to the owner’s, Vittorio Dalla Rosa Prati, love and pride of his heritage.

Guest Room of the
Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati

From the moment the reservation was made, Vittorio and his staff were kind and helpful; arranging transportation for us, making restaurant recommendations and happily answering all our tedious questions. We were celebrating our wedding anniversary, and the hotel had a celebratory bottle of sparkling wine waiting for us in our room, what a thoughtful and lovely welcome and a wonderful beginning to our Italian vacation.

Picturesque Streets of Parma

Jet-lagged, but now showered and refreshed, we headed out to get the lay of the land and to find a place for a light late lunch. After dining from a platter of local hams and cheeses, accompanied by a little vino, we take a stroll along the town’s narrow, old streets past shops, trattorias and piazzas. The town is easily walkable, cars are limited in the historic area, and we are happy to discover our hotel is convenient to everything.

Assumption of the Virgin Fresco by Correggio

Once back near the hotel in the Piazza del Duomo, we ventured inside the famous cathedral (duomo). The rather plain exterior belies the beautiful interior, which is punctuated by the dome’s exuberant fresco called the Assumption of the Virgin. The fresco was painted by Antonio Allegri, better known as Correggio. When the fresco was completed, the bishop of Parma was said to have been disappointed, referring to it as "A mess of frog legs."  Well these frog legs looked pretty impressive to our untrained eyes, it was truly breathtaking.

Relaxing In the room we popped open the bubbly. As if on cue, notes of Italian music suddenly began drifting through the window. Looking out over the piazza, we discovered an accordion player and a gathering of locals, some walking, some sitting and chatting up the day’s events.

Much ado About a Dog

A dog, obviously charmed by the music, joined in the fun.  So excited, he did his business right there and then. Horrified, a group of locals, hands waving wildly, were having a fit. They flagged down a passing motorcycle policeman, pointing to the bad deed and to the furry culprit, now joined by his owner. The motorcycle sped off toward the two … was he going to arrest the dog and put him in little doggy paw cuffs? Haul him off to doggy jail? Soon a sanitation crew appears … boy, they sure take their scooper laws seriously in Parma.

After enjoying our sparkling wine and bird’s eye view of the piazza, we once again headed out, joining the locals for the Italian tradition of passeggiata, a leisurely evening stroll through the main streets of town.

Delights Around Every Corner

It was a Tuesday and many of the restaurants were closed, making it a bit of a challenge to find a place for dinner. After awhile we found ourselves at a bustling restaurant called Ristorante Pizzeria al Corsaro. There is both a glass enclosed patio and a rather boisterous inside part of the restaurant. The patio was full and we were directed to the last available table in the back of the restaurant. The waiter was a bit gruff, and I was a little sorry this was where we were to dine the first night of our trip and our only night in Parma.

Well the food turned out to be surprisingly good, although not brought in the order we would have preferred. We wanted to split a caprese salad to start, my husband ordered the branzino (seabass) and I ordered ravioli as our main dishes. Now I am aware that pasta is a 'primi piatti,' a first course in Italy, but I am also aware that the Italians have grown accustomed to outsiders ordering pasta as their main course.

Our waiter would have none of that, and we ended up sharing my ravioli as our first course and I was brought the caprese salad, along with my husband's branzino, as my main meal.  The caprese salad (tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil) with local balsamic vinegar and olive oil was beautifully presented with the tomato cut open like a blooming flower. The tomato was a bit under ripe, but everything was fresh and tasty. The ravioli and branzino were both cooked perfectly and were very good. Although not a high-end restaurant by any means, everything was certainly reasonable and well prepared. It ended up not such a bad way to start our vacation after all.

The hotel offers its guests a choice of breakfast in the room or at their little café. We chose the former and promptly at 8:30 a breakfast of small ham and cheese sandwiches, croissants and rolls, a selection of jams and cappuccino was delivered to our room. What a nice way to welcome the day, sipping cappuccino on the window ledge, watching the world known as Parma come to life below.

Palazzo del Governatore with its
Astronomical Clock

Still a little sleepy from our long journey, we set off in search of another cup of coffee. Enjoying the sunny morning, we meandered through the streets and took our place among the locals outside the Palazzo del Governatore located in Piazza Garibaldi. The Piazza Garibaldi, in the very heart of the city, is the site of a former Roman forum. It is regarded as the most beautiful piazza in Parma and features statues of the Italian unifier Garibaldi and the artist Correggio.

The Palazzo del Governatore has a long history and is currently used to house temporary art exhibitions. The bell tower houses an interesting astronomical clock that was added in later years. It is this imposing, graceful yellow building that gives the square much of its beauty.

Parco Ducale

Exploring, we found ourselves across the river (I use the term loosely as at the time there was no running water) and in the middle of Parco Ducale, a lovely green respite away from all the buildings and pavement of the historic center. Perhaps that aforementioned little doggy would be better off taking his walks here.

Palazzo Ducale

These gardens surround the Palazzo Ducale and, as with everything in Parma, they have a long, varied history. They were originally used as a source of food, herbs, fish and game for the palace. In 1749, the gardens were transformed into a classic French garden. Later, under the direction of Napoleon's wife, Marie Louise of Austria, they were restored and remodeled into English gardens.

Palazzo della Pilotta

Wandering back around town we passed by the 16th-century Palazzo della Pilotta, which was originally built to house court and state services including stables, a hay store, an arms room, barracks and a theater. It was rebuilt after being largely destroyed during World War II and now contains several museums and institutions.

Santa Maria della Steccata

We stopped in another delightful church, Santa Maria della Steccata.  As with the previously visited Parma Cathedral, this 16th-century church also houses a wonderful decorative fresco in its dome's arch by Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino. It is said that he took so long to complete the fresco that his patrons briefly imprisoned him for breach of contract.

Having an afternoon train to catch, we headed back toward the hotel to a sweet restaurant called La Forchetta for our final Parma meal. As there were two women with a bevy of dogs occupying the outdoor space (we noticed Italians take their dogs everywhere, including shopping and dining out), we chose to dine inside.

We enjoyed a lunch that was more akin to a dinner back home. Like an encore ... only better ... from the previous night, fresh salads, pasta and fish graced our table. We started with another caprese salad and a primavera salad, both overly generous in portion, fresh and flavorful. Tortelli di zucca (pumpkin-filled tortelli) and branzino in crosta di patate (potato-crusted branzano) were our main courses, both tasty and cooked to perfection. Definitely a perfect ending to our brief, but delightful, stay in Parma.

A Town Filled with Trattorias and Charm

Parma did not feel like a tourist town. It felt as though, as long as we were respectful and well-behaved, we were being given the opportunity to live among the locals, to observe and to participate in this slower, community and tradition-based way of life.

Unfortunately, we didn't have the time to explore the other towns of Emilia-Romagna. It would have been lovely to visit all the towns in this region of marvelous foods, but alas, it gives us an excuse to return.

Crab, Shrimp and Avocado Timbale

This appetizer is always a crowd pleaser and is my most asked for recipe. 

A few years ago I watched a chef on TV make something very similar. I made notes and came across them months later. This is what I came up with and I have to say it is delicious. It also makes a beautiful presentation, elegant, yet it is quite simple to make.

Usually I serve this as an appetizer, but if you prefer to serve it as a salad, substitute lightly dressed greens for the tomato coulis.

Crab, Shrimp and Avocado Timbale
(Serves 4.)

Avocado Mixture
• 2 Hass avocados, skinned, seeded and chopped
• 1 large tomato, skinned, seeded and chopped*
• 1 lime, juiced
• 1 tablespoon parsley
• Tabasco sauce, to taste
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Crab Mixture
• 6 ounces jumbo lump crabmeat

• 6 large shrimp – peeled, cooked and chopped (If you would like to top off the timbale with a whole shrimp, cook an extra 4 shrimp and keep whole.)

• 1 tablespoon mayonnaise (use gluten-free mayonnaise for a GF dish)
• 1/4 teaspoon seafood seasoning (such as Old Bay)
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Tomato Coulis
• 1 large tomato, skinned and seeded*
• 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
• 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

• 1 tablespoon chives, chopped

• Special equipment: a 2 1/2-inch ring mold** or round cookie cutter (at least 2 inches high)

Crab, Shrimp and Avocado Timbale

Avocado Mixture – Mix avocado, tomato, lime juice, parsley, Tabasco sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate.

Seafood Mixture – Gently mix the crabmeat and shrimp with the mayonnaise, add seafood seasoning and salt and pepper to taste.

Tomato Coulis – Puree the tomato in a food processor or blender, add the oil and sherry vinegar to make the tomato coulis, season with salt and pepper.

Place half the avocado mixture evenly between four ring molds or round cookie cutters. Spoon the crab/shrimp mixture on top, cover with remaining avocado mixture. Chill the molds in the refrigerator for an hour or more before serving.

To serve, spoon a circle of tomato coulis in center of plate. Place the timbale ring on top, unmold and garnish with chives. Top with a whole cooked shrimp if desired.

*See Peeling and Seeding a Tomato Post

**Ring Mold

Smoky Vegetarian Pizza

Have to admit I love pizza, and I think my favorite is the traditional and simple pizza Margherita ... a good red sauce with fresh basil and mozzarella cheese. Perhaps a little boring for some, but I love it.

One of our most enjoyable summer dinners, especially when we have friends and family around, is to make our own pizza dough and cook pizzas on the grill. We roll out small, individual rounds and put out lots of toppings so everyone can make their own 'designer' pizza. They all enjoy this, especially the kids.

But there isn't always time to make dough and let it rise, or make your own pizza sauce. It's nice that there are so many crust options available now that make it easy to quickly whip up a pizza that anyone will enjoy. Choices range from refrigerated doughs to Boboli crusts and flatbreads. 

And anything goes in terms of sauces and toppings too. Instead of tomato sauce I've made pizzas using basil pesto, olive tapenade and barbecue sauce.

Here is an example of using barbecue sauce.The barbecue sauce lends a smoky flavor and the beans and corn provide fiber, a little crunch and some nice protein. This is especially nice for the vegetarians in the group!

Smoky Vegetarian Pizza
(Serves 4.)

• 1 tomato, peeled, seeded and diced
• 1 cup canned black beans, rinsed and well drained
• 1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed and well drained
• 1/4 cup barbecue sauce
• 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
• 1 16-ounce Boboli pizza crust, Naan flatbread or your favorite cooked pizza crust

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Smoky Vegetarian Pizza

Combine diced tomato, beans and corn in a medium bowl.

Place the pizza crust on a baking sheet. Spread a thin coat of barbecue sauce on the crust and sprinkle with the vegetable mixture. Top with the mozzarella cheese.

Place the sheet in the preheated oven and bake until the bottom of the crust is crisp and cheese has melted, about 15 minutes.

Let pizza stand 5 minutes, slice and serve.