8.29.2018

On Deconstructed Food ...


Perhaps one of the most overrated food fads has to be what is referred to as “Deconstructed Food.” I can’t help but think that the whole thing is a bit pretentious … and, let’s face it, a way to charge huge sums of money for a few, miserly pieces of plated food.

When I was in culinary school, my instructor proudly took his visiting parents to dinner at one of the first of these “fufu” restaurants in Los Angeles. Upon leaving, his angry dad scolded him saying “Never again take me to a place where I leave hungry after paying that kind of money!” I must say I thought this would be a short lived fad, but it has not only endured, it has grown over the years.

Making Deconstructed S'mores
I’m not sure where it all started. I think perhaps it was chef Ferran Adrià of the famed El Bulli Restaurant in Catalonia, Spain who invented the concept. Our local Washington, DC chef, José Andrés, who apprenticed under Adrià, certainly introduced the concept to this area with his MiniBar.

The concept is interesting and clever. There really is a lot of science involved in the whole thing, but I don’t think too many people spend much time contemplating the deconstruction of food. And I think even less are willing to spend their hard-earned money on these morsels.

So when the grandkids were here awhile back, I was quite shocked and extremely amused by a comment made by then 7-year old Emma while we were making s’mores. 

The scene was a bonfire on Bethany Beach … lots of kids, holding long sticks, were busy roasting their marshmallows. Among the group, Abby, Emma and Gavin were intently getting just the right char on their chunky marshmallows. We had brought along Hershey bars and graham crackers for them to make s’mores. Handing out the Hershey bars, I noticed Emma promptly started to devour hers. “Don’t you want to save it for the s’mores?” I asked. “I’m having mine deconstructed.” was the reply.

Just too funny, this coming from a 7-year old! I don’t think many adults could give the definition of deconstructed food. Who knew what a sophisticated foodie she was!

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