Lucca … ahhh … delightful Lucca. As much as I have enjoyed all the towns we have journeyed to during our Italian adventures, none spoke to me in the sweet, dulcet
tones like Lucca did. It is a people's city, it would be lovely to make it home one day.
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| Lucca from the Wall |
There was nothing not to like about this historical city. It was, at once, both quaint and
sophisticated. High-end stores joined
the cafes, open markets and churches that filled the streets and piazzas. A beautifully preserved wall, built wide to
withstand the force of cannon balls, completely surrounds the town. Today, instead of keeping out marauding
invaders, it keeps most cars at bay, making Lucca a very walkable city.
The wall is now a 2 1/2-mile park, enjoyed by locals and
tourists alike. Elevated above the town,
people stroll, ride bikes, play chess, picnic, and just enjoy the views of the town as well as dramatic
vistas of rolling green hills and purple mountains in the distance.
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| Streets of Lucca |
We decided to walk from the train station to our hotel. Entering through the city gates it almost
felt as though we arrived in Brigadoon. The
town was a beehive of activity. Whether
lunching at an outdoor table, having a lively discussion with a neighbor, or stopping
to admire a handsome handbag on display; everyone appeared to be enjoying
themselves on this Saturday afternoon.
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| Got Cheese? |
We passed food stalls that would make lovers of Italian
food weep with joy … copious amounts of fresh focaccia, sweets, meats and cheeses
were displayed with love and available for the asking. A little further down the road fine leather
goods and fashions graced shop windows. We
approached our hotel, anxious to check in and get back to all the tantalizing goodies
waiting for us in the town's center.
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| Hotel Palazzo Alexander |
Pleasant and old-fashioned, Hotel Palazzo Alexander
stands slightly away from the hub of activity, but very convenient to
everything. We received a warm greeting
from the owner who provided us with a handy city map and circled all the
important attractions and shopping areas.
We were then escorted to an attractive room with nice amenities and a
plate of apples, just in case we were in need of a little pick-me-up.
We headed back toward the town’s center, gazing once
again at the bountiful array of food markets, and plopped down at a
little outdoor café in one of the many church dominated piazzas. Some bruschettas, a little cheese, a wee bit
of vino and we were good to go, ready to tackle the walk around the city on the
park wall.
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| Lucca has had Three Walls Over 2000 Years |
A photo-op at every turn, the views overlooking the city
and countryside were stunning. Because
we stopped every minute or two to snap a picture, it took forever to walk the circumference,
but we enjoyed every second.
Later that evening, as we strolled the cobbled streets in
pursuit of a place to dine, we happened upon a bar filled with locals spilling out
onto the streets outside. The draw was a
pretty singer who was entertaining the crowd. Lucky for us, a table for two was open
outside and we joined the young group. We thoroughly
enjoyed ourselves, feeling almost like we belonged there.
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| Basilica of San Frediano |
Eventually we wandered off and grabbed a light meal in a nice outdoor trattoria, just perfect. On our way back, we happened upon another
singer and stopped to listen for awhile … as I said, just like Brigadoon.
Next day we had a nice breakfast spread at the hotel and
went out exploring again, wanting to soak up as much of the city as possible
before our train to Florence. We visited
a number of the many churches in town. While surveying the Basilica of San Frediano, we noticed a group of men of all
ages and sizes standing in front of the shrine to the Virgin Mary. Suddenly they burst into a lovely song, and
left … Brigadoon.
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