Travels in Italy … Parma, Full of Flavor and Charm

It is certainly far more exciting to actually travel than to sit at the computer writing about food and travel. Actually experiencing the tastes, smells and sites that other countries have to offer is a joy. We just love Italy and have vacationed there many times. It is a varied country offering a bounty of beautiful regions to explore.

Flavors of Emilia-Romagna

On one trip we started our adventure in what is perhaps the culinary heart of Italy, the Emilia-Romagna region. This region is famous world-wide for its range of food products and traditions. Gourmet delights such as balsamic vinegar from Modena, mortadella salume and tortellini from Bologna, and Parma’s famous prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, are just a few examples of the fine tastes awaiting a traveler's palate.

After landing in Bologna we headed northwest toward our destination for the first two days of our stay in Italy … Parma. Observing the old and the new, driving through both picturesque and industrial areas, we wiz past family-run farms with purple mountain views and a Barilla food-processing plant (and let us not forget the large blue and yellow IKEA store, just in case we tire of all those Italian delicacies and develop a sudden urge for a Swedish meatball).

The elegant city of Parma is a prosperous city and houses one of the world’s oldest universities. The city’s cobbled, medieval streets and squares are adorned with grand buildings, churches, museums and theatres.

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Hotel

Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Hotel, located in Parma’s historic district, was our Parma home. Filled with antiques and family treasures, this renovated palace is now a small boutique hotel. The hotel’s rooms ooze with charm and history, yet the bathrooms and kitchenettes have been modernized, combining the best of the old and the new. Happily situated in the same medieval square that houses the 12th century Parma Cathedral and Baptistery, the hotel gracefully stands as a tribute to the grandeur of Parma’s past … and is a testament to the owner’s, Vittorio Dalla Rosa Prati, love and pride of his heritage.

Guest Room of the
Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati

From the moment the reservation was made, Vittorio and his staff were kind and helpful; arranging transportation for us, making restaurant recommendations and happily answering all our tedious questions. We were celebrating our wedding anniversary, and the hotel had a celebratory bottle of sparkling wine waiting for us in our room, what a thoughtful and lovely welcome and a wonderful beginning to our Italian vacation.

Picturesque Streets of Parma

Jet-lagged, but now showered and refreshed, we headed out to get the lay of the land and to find a place for a light late lunch. After dining from a platter of local hams and cheeses, accompanied by a little vino, we take a stroll along the town’s narrow, old streets past shops, trattorias and piazzas. The town is easily walkable, cars are limited in the historic area, and we are happy to discover our hotel is convenient to everything.

Assumption of the Virgin Fresco by Correggio

Once back near the hotel in the Piazza del Duomo, we ventured inside the famous cathedral (duomo). The rather plain exterior belies the beautiful interior, which is punctuated by the dome’s exuberant fresco called the Assumption of the Virgin. The fresco was painted by Antonio Allegri, better known as Correggio. When the fresco was completed, the bishop of Parma was said to have been disappointed, referring to it as "A mess of frog legs."  Well these frog legs looked pretty impressive to our untrained eyes, it was truly breathtaking.

Relaxing In the room we popped open the bubbly. As if on cue, notes of Italian music suddenly began drifting through the window. Looking out over the piazza, we discovered an accordion player and a gathering of locals, some walking, some sitting and chatting up the day’s events.

Much ado About a Dog

A dog, obviously charmed by the music, joined in the fun.  So excited, he did his business right there and then. Horrified, a group of locals, hands waving wildly, were having a fit. They flagged down a passing motorcycle policeman, pointing to the bad deed and to the furry culprit, now joined by his owner. The motorcycle sped off toward the two … was he going to arrest the dog and put him in little doggy paw cuffs? Haul him off to doggy jail? Soon a sanitation crew appears … boy, they sure take their scooper laws seriously in Parma.

After enjoying our sparkling wine and bird’s eye view of the piazza, we once again headed out, joining the locals for the Italian tradition of passeggiata, a leisurely evening stroll through the main streets of town.

Delights Around Every Corner

It was a Tuesday and many of the restaurants were closed, making it a bit of a challenge to find a place for dinner. After awhile we found ourselves at a bustling restaurant called Ristorante Pizzeria al Corsaro. There is both a glass enclosed patio and a rather boisterous inside part of the restaurant. The patio was full and we were directed to the last available table in the back of the restaurant. The waiter was a bit gruff, and I was a little sorry this was where we were to dine the first night of our trip and our only night in Parma.

Well the food turned out to be surprisingly good, although not brought in the order we would have preferred. We wanted to split a caprese salad to start, my husband ordered the branzino (seabass) and I ordered ravioli as our main dishes. Now I am aware that pasta is a 'primi piatti,' a first course in Italy, but I am also aware that the Italians have grown accustomed to outsiders ordering pasta as their main course.

Our waiter would have none of that, and we ended up sharing my ravioli as our first course and I was brought the caprese salad, along with my husband's branzino, as my main meal.  The caprese salad (tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil) with local balsamic vinegar and olive oil was beautifully presented with the tomato cut open like a blooming flower. The tomato was a bit under ripe, but everything was fresh and tasty. The ravioli and branzino were both cooked perfectly and were very good. Although not a high-end restaurant by any means, everything was certainly reasonable and well prepared. It ended up not such a bad way to start our vacation after all.

The hotel offers its guests a choice of breakfast in the room or at their little café. We chose the former and promptly at 8:30 a breakfast of small ham and cheese sandwiches, croissants and rolls, a selection of jams and cappuccino was delivered to our room. What a nice way to welcome the day, sipping cappuccino on the window ledge, watching the world known as Parma come to life below.

Palazzo del Governatore with its
Astronomical Clock

Still a little sleepy from our long journey, we set off in search of another cup of coffee. Enjoying the sunny morning, we meandered through the streets and took our place among the locals outside the Palazzo del Governatore located in Piazza Garibaldi. The Piazza Garibaldi, in the very heart of the city, is the site of a former Roman forum. It is regarded as the most beautiful piazza in Parma and features statues of the Italian unifier Garibaldi and the artist Correggio.

The Palazzo del Governatore has a long history and is currently used to house temporary art exhibitions. The bell tower houses an interesting astronomical clock that was added in later years. It is this imposing, graceful yellow building that gives the square much of its beauty.

Parco Ducale

Exploring, we found ourselves across the river (I use the term loosely as at the time there was no running water) and in the middle of Parco Ducale, a lovely green respite away from all the buildings and pavement of the historic center. Perhaps that aforementioned little doggy would be better off taking his walks here.

Palazzo Ducale

These gardens surround the Palazzo Ducale and, as with everything in Parma, they have a long, varied history. They were originally used as a source of food, herbs, fish and game for the palace. In 1749, the gardens were transformed into a classic French garden. Later, under the direction of Napoleon's wife, Marie Louise of Austria, they were restored and remodeled into English gardens.

Palazzo della Pilotta

Wandering back around town we passed by the 16th-century Palazzo della Pilotta, which was originally built to house court and state services including stables, a hay store, an arms room, barracks and a theater. It was rebuilt after being largely destroyed during World War II and now contains several museums and institutions.

Santa Maria della Steccata

We stopped in another delightful church, Santa Maria della Steccata.  As with the previously visited Parma Cathedral, this 16th-century church also houses a wonderful decorative fresco in its dome's arch by Francesco Mazzola, better known as Parmigianino. It is said that he took so long to complete the fresco that his patrons briefly imprisoned him for breach of contract.

Having an afternoon train to catch, we headed back toward the hotel to a sweet restaurant called La Forchetta for our final Parma meal. As there were two women with a bevy of dogs occupying the outdoor space (we noticed Italians take their dogs everywhere, including shopping and dining out), we chose to dine inside.

We enjoyed a lunch that was more akin to a dinner back home. Like an encore ... only better ... from the previous night, fresh salads, pasta and fish graced our table. We started with another caprese salad and a primavera salad, both overly generous in portion, fresh and flavorful. Tortelli di zucca (pumpkin-filled tortelli) and branzino in crosta di patate (potato-crusted branzano) were our main courses, both tasty and cooked to perfection. Definitely a perfect ending to our brief, but delightful, stay in Parma.

A Town Filled with Trattorias and Charm

Parma did not feel like a tourist town. It felt as though, as long as we were respectful and well-behaved, we were being given the opportunity to live among the locals, to observe and to participate in this slower, community and tradition-based way of life.

Unfortunately, we didn't have the time to explore the other towns of Emilia-Romagna. It would have been lovely to visit all the towns in this region of marvelous foods, but alas, it gives us an excuse to return.