Impromptu Florida Trip ... Last Chapter, Hollywood

By this time I have finally embraced our trip, but unfortunately it was now our last day. Determined to make the most of it, we got up early and headed down to the fitness center. Checkout wasn’t until noon, so we changed and headed to the pool. We were the only ones there, but our solitude was broken by the sound of a loud generator attached to some kind of power cleaner. The sound was deafening and, it goes without saying, annoying.

Hotel's Infinity Pool

I jumped in the pool, which I had to myself, and happily swam laps … but that noise, ugh. I rested at the pool’s edge and gazed out at the great expanse of ocean. It would have been heaven if it wasn’t for that relentless noise. It finally drove the two of us inside but we could hear it just as well from our room.

Ready to jump in the shower, there was a knock at the door … the door that had the ‘do not disturb’ light on. The housekeeper inquired: “Aren’t you checking out today?” “Well, yes we are … at checkout time, an hour and a half from now.”

Showered and packed up, we decided to go down to the Breeze outdoor café for a coffee prior to heading out. It was about half an hour before checkout, so we called the front desk to ask if it would be okay if we happened to run a few minutes over, "No problem.” was the reply.

Our coffee was interrupted by more rain so we headed up to gather our belongings, running right into the same housekeeper who was once again banging on our door. “Oh, I thought you had forgotten to turn off the ‘do not disturb’ light.” she said. What is with you? ... I felt like asking … it still wasn’t noon, the hotel was mostly empty, and we had checked with the front desk to make sure there wasn’t a big demand for our room. “We will be out at noon, at checkout time.” we reminded her. She waited, standing as though she had rooted herself in front of our door, while we finished up inside.

Between the annoying generator and annoying housekeeper, our last impression as we left the hotel was not a positive one. Incidents like that can ruin your experience, guaranteeing that you won’t return or recommend the hotel to others. Hopefully the new management is doing a better job.

Fort Lauderdale's River Walk

On the road again, heading south this time, we took the coastal route all the way to Fort Lauderdale. Stopping downtown, we decided to check out the Fort Lauderdale river walk area. Unfortunately, this was a good idea that somehow went wrong. Whether it was lack of funds or poor planning, the river walk looked sad and was mostly full of abandoned restaurants. Hopefully it has since been rejuvenated as it really needed it..

Moving on we arrived in Hollywood and checked into the Marriott right on the beach. We stayed there our last night due to its close proximity to the airport. The room was very strange … large with a huge empty space in the middle. The bed, which practically needed a ladder to climb into, was off in an alcove, about a mile from the other furniture in the room. One would have needed binoculars in order to see the TV. The tiny balcony provided the only clue that we were on the water, if you could find enough room to twist your body and look to the left.

Hollywood Boardwalk

Walking outside we were delighted to find a paved “boardwalk” for bikers and walkers that seemed to go on forever. To me it really wasn’t a boardwalk, not made from boards like the kind we have at home on the Maryland and Delaware shores. This reminded me of the “strand” I used to live on in Redondo Beach, CA. The strand there was also paved, was divided for both pedestrians and bikers, and went on for miles, town after town, from Torrance Beach to Santa Monica.

After a little walk, we returned and had lunch at the hotel’s restaurant right on the boardwalk, very nice. Later in the evening we returned to walk the length of the boardwalk, first north, then south. The beach was wide and beautiful and the street lamps were adorned with festive holiday lights. Walking along with the locals and tourists was a delight.

Finding somewhere for dinner proved a little difficult as most of the places along the beach were bars or served only "boardwalk-fare." We settled on a little place called Las Brisas  and were seated right on the boardwalk. The restaurant has since closed, but I am writing about it because it was a most interesting and entertaining evening.

Billed as Argentine with an Italian flair, the menu seemed more to us like Italian with an Argentine flair, but anyway …

We asked the waiter, who looked like Paul Sorvino's twin, if they had any Italian wine. The answer was: “No, we don’t have any Chianti or anything like that, if that’s what you mean.” Okay. When asked if the egg battered fish was heavy, the answer was: “No, I don’t think it’s heavy, but that’s me, you might think it is.” Okay.

Hollywood Boardwalk at Night

We ordered and were thoroughly enjoying sitting right on the beach when it started to rain. It was light and we didn’t think it would last long, so when they offered to move us inside we declined and said we would just push in under the building’s overhang. They helped to push our table back, which made it a bit wobbly. Suddenly a young man, who had been walking the boardwalk with his girlfriend, came up and said: “That table is unstable.” He ran inside to get something to fix it. In a flash he reappeared, fixed the table and continued on his way.

Okay …that was weird. When the waiter returned, we asked: “Who the heck was that?” He replied: “I thought you might be wondering about him. He works here but it’s his day off and he just happened by.” Okay.

Another staff member appeared and told us: “You know with most people, the minute there’s a drop of rain they run inside whining. But you guys didn’t let it bother you.” He then began to tell us his life's story, and his dreams for the future. Okay. When he finally left, we asked our waiter if the guy was the owner or manager, "No, he is just another waiter." was the reply. Okay, why was he spending all that time talking to us?

We finished our meal all the while enjoying the view, the people watching and the craziness of the restaurant. We ordered an additional glass of wine for dessert. A couple came up, the woman wanted to sit outside but her date didn’t, saying it was too windy. We told him it was nice out there, but the mysterious waiter from earlier appeared and said: “Don’t listen to them, they’ve been here all day and they’re drunk.” Okay, it’s 9:00, we’ve been there about an hour, we are enjoying our second glass of wine, and are certainly not drunk.

Such a crazy dinner, and a great way to end our trip to the not so sunny “sunshine” state.

Impromptu Florida Trip ... Palm Beach

So there we were at the Ritz Carlton Palm Beach (now the Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa), which is not actually in Palm Beach, but just south in Manalapan. 

After falling asleep to the sound of the ocean’s waves gently crashing to shore, we awoke to start our day in Palm Beach. First on the agenda was a workout in the hotel’s nice fitness center followed by a dip in the infinity pool. Then we were off to continue our ride up Ocean Boulevard.

The Breakers in Holiday Finery

As we passed Palm Beach, ogling at all the beautiful waterfront homes, we decided that we would continue to drive and stop in town on our return.

We approached the famous Breakers hotel and my husband told me that he had never been inside. So in we went ... you just can’t pass up an opportunity to experience such opulence. Breathtakingly beautiful, this fine “lady” was already decked out in all her holiday finery. We sauntered around the grounds and the public areas, enjoying the decorations and the ocean views. Ending up in the Seafood Bar, we settled into a little window table overlooking the water.

The bar was beautiful, with rich wood paneling, elegant furnishings, aquarium bar counters with fish swimming within, and that view ...

We sipped wine and feasted on clam chowder served in sourdough bread bowls and Prince Edward Island mussels with caramelized onions, apples, gorgonzola and smoked bacon … yum! It was an absolutely delightful way to spend an early afternoon.

Bethesda-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church

Since our car was valet parked, we decided to leave it there and go for a little stroll toward downtown Palm Beach. Coming upon Bethesda-by-the-Sea Episcopal Church, we went inside to take a look.

Built in 1925, this Spanish Gothic church is adorned with graceful arches and stained glass windows. The grounds feature formal, ornamental gardens with a large coy pond as its centerpiece. It is quite a lovely little church and worth seeing if in the area.

Palm Beach

Continuing our walk, we found ourselves downtown among the tony shops along Worth Avenue … Tiffany, Gucci, Cartier, Chanel … oh my! We also discovered a few charming little shopping areas off the main drag, as well as a whimsical courtyard with delightful sculptures of children and curious pigs!

A Little Palm Beach Whimsy

Unfortunately, it was Monday, so we were not able to enjoy the local museums as they were all closed. We had dinner reservations at Café Boulud, but it was too early for dinner, and as we were still being treated to occasional downpours, we retrieved our car and headed back to the hotel. Once there, we settled in and decided to stay put. We canceled our dinner reservation in town and instead dined at the hotel’s Temple Orange restaurant.

We found ourselves dining on the restaurant's terrace. We enjoyed our seafood dinners, the breeze and the melodic sound of the ocean. By this time I was over my "vacation guilt" and was sorry we had only one day left of our relaxing Florida vacation.

Impromptu Florida Trip ... Delray Beach and Morikami Japanese Gardens

Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens

Leaving Key Biscayne behind, we set off for the second chapter of our Gold Coast tour. Our destination was another Ritz Carlton property, just south of Palm Beach.

We hopped on the highway, passing through Fort Lauderdale and Boca Raton, exiting near Delray Beach to stop by the Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens.

Morikami Sand Garden

The web site describes the Morikami Gardens as “authentic Japanese-style gardens … intended to be experienced through nature as a whole by becoming in tune with a sense of space and rhythm, light and shade, texture and sound…”

It was all that and more. Although it started to pour down rain the moment we paid our admission, it didn’t dampen our visit, just our clothes and hair. As the rain drove all the other visitors inside to seek shelter in the café and lobby, the two of us, as often happens, set off in the opposite direction … outside for a stroll. Although not ideal conditions, the rain somehow nicely complemented our experience. The solitude was nice and the moisture made the gardens appear even more exquisitely beautiful, lush and peaceful.

Morikami Rain Chain

As we walked around the garden lake, at every turn we discovered a view more lovely and serene than the previous one. A waterfall here, a dense grove of trees there, coy ponds, sand and rock gardens, a bonsai exhibit ... there was something new to explore everywhere. Special surprise elements, such as the rain chains, made it extra delightful … as yes indeed, it certainly was raining.

Japanese gardens are not something that one would expect to find in Southern Florida, but no one should miss the opportunity to explore this tranquil oasis outside Delray Beach.

After the gardens we found ourselves wandering around the small town of Delray Beach. The rain had stopped, but once again it started to pour. As it was lunch time, we ducked inside Deck 84 for shelter and a bite to eat. We were seated in the bar area, which was bustling on this Sunday afternoon with sports fans and casual diners alike.

Bar at Deck 84, Delray Beach

It was unfortunate that it was raining, the lovely deck, situated right on the Intracoastal Waterway, sat completely void of customers. But we were still able to enjoy the view and, as an extra treat, we had live entertainment to enjoy.

The menu offered a wide range of food … snacks, light bites, flatbreads, sandwiches, burgers, salads, main dishes …a perfect selection to please just about anyone. We very much enjoyed our lunch in this friendly, fun restaurant in Delray Beach.

We hated to leave this nice place and refuge from the rain, but it was time to head on toward our hotel near Palm Beach. Choosing the coastal route rather than the highway, we meandered though one lovely area after another until we came upon our hotel for the next two days.

Impromptu Florida Trip ... Miami Area

Main Pool at the Ritz Carlton Key Biscayne

On our first full day in Florida, we walked around Key Biscayne then landed back at the hotel pool for a relaxing afternoon. Luckily, the hotel had two large pools, one for families and the other for adults. As we didn’t have any critters with us, we chose the latter as the family pool was packed with running and screaming kids.

I love to play with the grand-kids in the pool. Swimming is one of their favorite activities and it is fun to enjoy it with them when we get the chance. However, when we are alone, I think it is great that a resort offers an option for those who like to swim without being splashed, hit in the head with a ball, or forced to listen to the lovely melody of “Marco,” “Polo,” “Marco,” “Polo,” “Marco,” “ Polo” … ad nauseam.

My husband was as relaxed as I’ve ever seen him. He is the original “energizer bunny,” usually not the “relax all afternoon around the pool” kind of person. But this was why we were here, and it was nice to see him enjoying himself so thoroughly. I, on the other hand, was restless and still struggling with the fact that there was so much to do waiting for me at home. I was beginning to get annoyed with myself, not fully understanding why I couldn’t just chill and relax.

View of Biscayne Bay
from the Rusty Pelican

After our restful pool day, we had dinner at the Rusty Pelican, which we had noticed on our way to the hotel the evening before. The restaurant has the perfect setting overlooking Biscayne Bay and Miami. The food was nothing particularly special, but decent. We had the Florida Grouper with Lemon Butter Sauce, Mashed Potatoes and Fresh Vegetables. It was a “homey” kind of dish, a little heavy on the mashed potatoes, but good.

We returned to the hotel to enjoy a nightcap at the fire pit. I think this was our favorite part of the hotel, sitting in front of the fire, sipping a glass of wine, and listening to the waves crashing to shore from the darkness below.

Ocean Drive, South Beach

The next day we headed to Miami's South Beach. It was like being in another country; hardly any English was spoken as we walked for miles along Ocean Drive and the shore. As we passed one restaurant and art deco building after another, we were accosted by staff shoving menus in our faces urging us to sit and dine.

We walked up to and along the Lincoln Road Mall, stopping for a nice little lunch at the Nexxt Café. Lincoln Road is a pedestrian mall between Alton Road and Washington Avenue. It is a shopping and dining area with restaurants offering a choice of indoor or outdoor seating. It is a great place to relax, enjoy a bite, and to watch the parade of people in their often “unique” attire, or lack thereof, strolling up and down the walk.

Lincoln Road Mall, South Beach

South Beach is definitely a fun and bustling area of Miami. Colorful in its buildings, sandy beach and people; it is a happening place, especially for the young and hip. For us, a full day there was plenty; it was nice to get back to the peaceful and uncrowded island of Key Biscayne and the comfort of the hotel.

That night we made a reservation for dinner at the hotel’s Cioppino Restaurant. The now closed restaurant was highly rated and we thought, as long as we were staying there, it would be worth trying. We were "greeted," not so warmly, by a snooty maître d’ that took his time before bothering to even look up at us.

He finally seated us outside on a lovely patio. Although the meal was nothing to rave about, we enjoyed our al fresco evening and our final night on Key Biscayne.

In the morning we were heading to Palm Beach via Delray Beach and the Morikami Museum and Japanese Gardens … stay tuned ….

Impromptu Trip to Florida’s Gold Coast ... Part One

As I was thinking of the lovely Thanksgiving meal we enjoyed with our neighbors, who are more like family to us, I am reminded of how nice it is to share holidays with family and friends. I started thinking back to an impromptu trip we took to Florida a number of years ago. We had our plans cancelled at the last minute, so my husband decided he wanted to go somewhere warm to relax after a hectic year of work and travel.

To the computer I headed in search of the impossible, plane and hotel reservations for the busy Thanksgiving weekend. I found that, if one can be flexible, there are opportunities available, even two weeks before the holiday.

View From Our Room

It did involve a lot of juggling, flights didn’t always jive with hotel availability, but soon I had our trip laid out before us … fly into Fort Lauderdale, three nights on Key Biscayne, two nights near Palm Beach and the last night in Hollywood, convenient to the airport and our early morning departure.

We arrived Thanksgiving evening, rented a car, and headed off to the Ritz Carlton Key Biscayne. When we pulled up, an army (I’m not exaggerating here, an army!) of bell hops greeted us … so many in fact, it made it hard to drive in fear of hitting one of them.

With a glass of champagne in hand, we were escorted to our room overlooking the resort, bay and Miami Beach. We were staying on a discount, so we weren’t on the ocean side, but it was still a lovely view.

Disembarking From Their Cruise Ship

Quickly changing into shorts, we set off to walk the beach before the sun set. Unfortunately, there isn’t much of a beach at this location, but enough to stretch our milky white legs before grabbing a bit of dinner.

It was nice to be in shorts again and to feel the warmth of the breeze brushing softly against our skin. Upon our return to the hotel, we sat at a pretty outdoor area, adjacent to their Mexican restaurant, and enjoyed a glass of wine overlooking a fire pit and the ocean. This was a different kind of Thanksgiving for sure …

As lovely as it was, there was something inside me not quite allowing me to relax. Thanksgiving among swaying palm trees was nothing new to me. I lived many years in Arizona and Southern California. But I just couldn’t help but think it was kind of weird spending Thanksgiving at a hotel near Miami … just my husband and me … no family or friends to toast with and share our dinner. I have to admit, I was also a little preoccupied by thoughts of all there was to do back home in preparation for Christmas and all the entertaining that comes with it, as well as all the upcoming expense … what the heck were we doing here?

Cantina Beach

(It made me hearken back to the year I moved, with a friend, to the Los Angeles area from Connecticut. We were a couple of years out of college and decided we wanted a change … and change we got! Our first Thanksgiving we headed up to Lake Tahoe, staying at Caesars Tahoe, to celebrate the holiday. Having Thanksgiving dinner served to us by ladies in short togas was definitely up there on the weird chart.)

Not in the mood for the turkey buffet, we changed and headed to the Rumbar to listen to music and grab a light bite to eat. We took our glasses of wine back to the room and ended our evening on our little balcony overlooking the lights of Miami Beach with me still wondering ... exactly why are we here????

Stay tuned for part two of our trip ….

Using Holiday Leftovers ... Turkey Tetrazzini

Many of us had a big roasted turkey for our holiday dinner and perhaps have loads of leftovers. This recipe is a good way to use up some of those leftovers, for you can magically turn them into more comfort food. Zap!

We can all use warm, comfort food as we head into the shortest, as well as most hectic, days of the year. Like Shepherd's Pie, this is a complete one-dish meal using leftover turkey rather than leftover mashed potatoes. It makes a lot, making a perfect dinner for one of those hectic nights between Thanksgiving and New Year's, or any time of year. It is just as good with chicken, maybe better!

Turkey Tetrazzini
(Serves 4 to 6.)

• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 onion, chopped
• 10 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• 1 3/4 cups milk
• 2 cups chicken broth
• 10 ounces spaghetti
• 3 cups coarsely chopped cooked turkey (or cooked chicken)
• 1 cup cooked peas
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 1/3 cup fine fresh bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Turkey Tetrazzini

Heat 4 tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until slightly translucent. Add the mushrooms, stirring, until most of the liquid has evaporated, stir in the flour, and cook the mixture over low heat, stirring, for 3 minutes.

Add the wine and deglaze the pan. In a stream add the milk and the broth, stirring. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer the sauce for 5 minutes. In a pot of boiling salted water cook the spaghetti, per package directions, until it is al dente and drain it well.

In a large bowl combine the cooked spaghetti, the mushroom sauce, the turkey, the peas, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in 1/3 cup of the Parmesan, and transfer the mixture to a buttered shallow 3-quart casserole. In a small bowl combine well the remaining 1/3 cup Parmesan, the bread crumbs, and salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle the mixture evenly over the Tetrazzini, and dot the top with the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, cut into bits. (The Tetrazzini may be prepared up to this point 1 month in advance and kept frozen, covered.)

Bake the Tetrazzini in the middle of the preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is bubbling and the top is golden.

Using Holiday Leftovers ... Shepherd's Pie

This dish is the ultimate comfort food for a cold winter’s night, and is an economical complete dish with meat, starch and vegetables all in one. It is easy to pull together, especially if there are leftover mashed potatoes in the fridge from the holiday table.

I like this simple dish so much that whenever I make mashed potatoes, I make extra just so I can whip this up the next day.

Shepherd's Pie
(Serves 6.)

• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 pounds lean ground beef, ground turkey or ground chicken
• 1 large onion, peeled and chopped
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour for a GF meal)
• 1 cup beef broth
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 cup mixed frozen vegetables (peas, carrots, green beans and corn)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Leftover mashed potatoes or Mashed Potato Topping, (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Shepherd's Pie

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the meat and onion to the skillet and brown, breaking up the meat, until it is just cooked through. Drain off the fat.

Add the flour to the skillet and stir to combine. Slowly stir in the broth then add the tomato paste. Stir in the mixed frozen vegetables and add salt and pepper to taste.

Bring mixture to a boil then reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer until heated through and well combined, about 10 minutes.

Transfer mixture to an ungreased shallow 2-quart, oven-proof casserole dish.

Spread mashed potatoes over top of meat mixture. Run tines of fork diagonally over potatoes, give casserole a quarter turn and repeat with fork.

Bake, uncovered, for 30 to 35 minutes until bubbly and lightly browned. Serve at once.

Mashed Potato Topping
• 5 medium-sized Yukon gold potatoes, each peeled and split in half (about 2 pounds)
• 2 tablespoons butter, melted
• 1/4 cup milk
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place potatoes in a pot of salted water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender. Toss the potatoes into a colander to drain. In a bowl either mash the potatoes or use a potato ricer.

Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix well. Add additional butter or milk until the potatoes reach a nice creamy, but not runny, texture. Use for topping the Shepherd's Pie.

Pumpkin Roulade with Ginger Filling

An elegant, but easy, dessert and the perfect end to Thanksgiving dinner. Even those that are not big sweet eaters enjoy this spicy and beautiful treat. I have made the cake with gluten-free flour with good results.

Pumpkin Roulade with Ginger Filling
(Serves 8.)

For the cake:
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour blend)
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 3/4 cup canned pumpkin (not pie filling)
• 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar, plus extra for dusting

For the filling:
• 12 ounces Italian mascarpone cheese
• 1 1/4 cups sifted confectioners' sugar
• 2 tablespoons heavy cream
• 1/4 cup minced dried crystallized ginger
• Pinch salt

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Pumpkin Roulade with Ginger Filling

Grease a 13 by 18 by 1-inch sheet pan. Line the pan with parchment paper and grease and flour the paper.

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and salt and stir to combine. 

Place the eggs and granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium-high speed for 3 minutes, until light yellow and thickened. With the mixer on low, add the pumpkin, then slowly add the flour mixture, mixing just until incorporated.  Finish mixing the batter by hand with a rubber spatula. 

Pour batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly over the parchment paper. Bake the cake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the top springs back when gently touched.

While the cake is baking, lay out a clean, thin cotton dish towel on a flat surface and sift the entire 1/4 cup of confectioners' sugar evenly over it. (This will prevent the cake from sticking to the towel.) As soon as you remove the cake from the oven, loosen it around the edges and invert it squarely onto the prepared towel. Peel away the parchment paper. With a light touch, roll the warm cake and the towel together starting at the short end of the cake. Allow to cool completely on a wire rack.

Meanwhile, make the filling. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the mascarpone, confectioners' sugar, and cream together for about a minute, until light and fluffy. Stir in the crystallized ginger and salt.

To assemble, carefully unroll the cake onto a board with the towel underneath. Spread the cake evenly with the filling. Re-roll the cake in a spiral using the towel as a guide. Remove the towel and trim the ends to make a neat edge. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve sliced.

Thanksgiving Tidbits ... Table Decor Ideas

The Thanksgiving dinner table usually doesn't allow room for a large or fancy centerpiece. But there is no need to fret. Autumn's vibrant and earthy colors present wonderful opportunities to adorn the table without giving up prime real estate reserved for the turkey and pumpkin pie.

For a simple and pretty look, it is easy to run a path of colorful leaves down the center of the table, or even better, buy French cheese leaves that can be used over and over again. Accent with small pumpkins, gourds, berries and flowers.

Peruse closets for tablecloths, runners, place mats, or even sheets in yellows, oranges, browns, and golds. Mix and match colorful fabrics to cover tables, sideboards and any other flat surface that might host the holiday buffet.

Make eye-catching napkin ties using rustic natural materials like raffia, straw or lemongrass.

Use small tea lights or votives in back of each place setting with a fall theme, such as a pumpkin or little turkey. Or make them by wrapping autumn leaves around small glass votives, using a different color of leaf for each votive, and tying them with raffia. The tea lights or votives can also serve as a take-home party favor.

Instead of in back of the placemat, scatter the votives along the center of the table. Add a couple of small flower arrangements instead of one large one. For extra sparkle, place some floating candles in the shape of leaves or other fall décor in a small glass bowl.

If there is no room on the table, hang decorations overhead. String together vibrant orange, red, and yellow paper lanterns so they dangle a couple feet above the dinner table.

Write each guest's name on a place card with a gold metallic pen, then punch a hole in the top right corner of each card. Use pretty ribbon to tie them to the stems of pears or mini pumpkins and set one on each guest's plate.

As another little party favor or extra dessert, scatter candy wrapped in pretty fall colors around each place setting.

Don't forget about the kids' table! While the turkey is cooking, give the little ones a supply of markers or crayons, construction paper, pipe cleaners, mini pumpkins and fall leaves. The kids will love decorating their own table, and the grown-ups will love keeping them busy while they get dinner on the table.

Above all, enjoy loved ones and have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Italy's Cinque Terre ... Manarola, Riomaggiore and Corniglia

Once again we found ourselves chugging along on the local Cinque Terre train. Having left Vernazza we headed further south to discover what additional charms were waiting for us. We skipped the next town of Corniglia, located high in the hills, saving it for the following day (we had already done enough hard climbing in Vernazza for one day).

Manarola

We arrived in Manarola, a bit more rustic and less touristy than both Monterosso and Vernazza. The now familiar pastel buildings trickled down a steep hill overlooking the dazzling swimming cove and harbor below. Above the town, ancient terraces stood proudly, graced with a bounty of vineyards and olive groves. The colorful streets were lined with shops selling local products, and an array of small boats were scattered about as if tossed from the sea. Of course, like all Italian towns, laundry swayed in the breeze from the windows above.

From Manarola to the southern-most town of Riomaggiore lies the easiest part of the area’s hiking trail system. This section, called the Via dell’Amore (the road of love), is named for its romantic, picturesque vistas. We had been looking forward to hiking this particular path, but it was closed due to a recent landslide.

L'Ancora della Tortuga in Monterosso

Back in our “home town” of Monterosso, we had a particularly flavorful dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga. Perched atop the rocky coastline between the new and old parts of town, this restaurant has a dreamy view of new Monterosso and the sea. Unfortunately, we were not able to dine outside because of weather, but the inside was comfortable and pleasant.

We started with the best appetizer of our trip, a mixed seafood grill and smaller mix of fried seafood thrown in for good measure. The whole meal was excellent, but the appetizers were truly outstanding for their creativity, presentation, taste and freshness.

Between our delicious lunch at Ristorante Belforte and dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga, this was our most palate pleasing day of travel … and we needed sustenance to make our long trek back uphill to the hotel.

Riomaggiore

After breakfast the next morning we headed down to a now calmer sea to board a ferry taking us to the final two towns of the Cinque Terre; Riomaggiore, the most southern of the five towns and Corniglia on the hill in the middle.

Viewing these enchanting towns from the water made us feel as though we had tumbled into an impressionist painting. I’ve overused the word charm, but this area absolutely oozes it.

Riomaggiore is where we disembarked from the ferry. To call this a port is laughable, the boat pulls up to some flat rocks, a wobbly plank is thrown down and people stagger off at their own risk. Climbing up the rocks to town, we stopped for a light lunch in a small café with a killer view of the coast. We had simple sandwiches with fresh ham and melted cheese, added by a little vino and there you have it, a perfect lunch on the cliffs.

Just One of the Locals

The main road was a long, steady climb to the top of town. Along with the homes, cafés, stores, flower-draped balconies, and laundry that line all the town's streets,  we also discovered one lovely little church after another. We explored all the nooks and crannies, coming upon little treasures in the form of murals, food displays and a resting kitty.

If we had not stayed in Monterosso, this would have been our second choice. It was easy to spend time there and, yes, it was charming.

Corniglia by Sea

Corniglia is the only town that does not have a port. It is located on top of a hill and requires a steep climb from the train station to get to the town’s center. Thus, we needed to board a train to get from Riomaggiore to Corniglia.

As we trekked up the hill we passed by incredible views of the sea and the neighboring town of Manarola. We walked along terraced vineyards with inventive wine trains used to harvest the grapes.

Streets of Corniglia

Our long journey was rewarded with the least touristy of the five towns. Corniglia was a microcosm of all the towns we visited and was, perhaps, the quaintest of them all. It didn’t take long to explore the shops and church, giving us an excuse to relax in a small piazza and enjoy a glass of wine with a mix of both locals and tourists.

Upon our return to Monterosso, we dined at Ristorante Miky, a highly rated restaurant that had been recommended by many including our hotel's owner. We thought it would be the perfect way to bid arrivederci to the Cinque Terre.

Cheers to the Cinque Terre ... We Miss You

Well, not so much.  In a nutshell, we found the service to be a bit patronizing and arrogant, and the food to be rather bland and not at all out of the ordinary. It was probably our most disappointing meal of the trip.

Overall though, we can’t complain about a thing in this wonderful little corner of Italy. It is, dare I say it again, simply charming ...

Pasta with Shellfish in Tomato Sauce

After having a wonderful meal at Ristorante Belforte in the Cinque Terre town of Vernazza, I just had to try and duplicate the pasta with seafood lunch we so much enjoyed there.

Of course I couldn't make the dramatic coastline, roaring sea, and the crooked streets lined with pastel homes magically appear ... but I was hoping to come close to providing similar fresh-from-the-sea flavors that made that pasta dish sing.

Although not quite as good as it was when we dined among castle ruins while gazing down at the deep blue sea below, my pasta with shellfish is pretty darn tasty ... even if it was served at our kitchen table in our humble abode here in Maryland.

Pasta with Shellfish in Tomato Sauce

(Serves 4.)

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• 4 garlic cloves, minced

• 1/4 teaspoon of red pepper flakes

• 1 can (14 1/2 ounces) whole plum tomatoes with juice, pureed in a food processor

• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

• 1 pound spaghetti or linguini

• 1/2 cup minced fresh Italian parsley

• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 pound cleaned mussels, discard any that do not close when touched
• 1 pound cleaned small clams, discard any that do not close when touched

• 1/2 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 cup basil leaves, cut into small pieces

Linguini with Shellfish in Tomato Sauce

In a sauté pan over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add half of the garlic and the red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute. Add the pureed tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick and the flavors have blended, about 15 minutes. Keep warm over low heat.

Cook the pasta according to the package directions. When the pasta is 8 minutes short of being ready, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. 

Add the remaining garlic and 1/4 cup of the parsley. Sauté briefly to soften and release the flavors, then add the white wine and simmer briskly for about 1 minute. Add the mussels and clams. Cover and simmer until the shellfish are all open, about 2 minutes or so. Stir and set aside.

Toss the prepared shrimp into the tomato sauce and stir until just cooked through. Add enough juices from the mussels to slightly thin the sauce, about half or to your liking.

Drain the pasta and return to the warm pot. Add the tomato sauce with the shrimp and toss to evenly coat the pasta. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of parsley and the basil, toss gently.

Divide pasta with shrimp among warmed dishes, add mussels and clams. Serve immediately.

Note: This pasta dish would be good with any shellfish.

Itlay's Cinque Terre ... Vernazza

Vernazza

The consensus among travel writers is that Vernazza is their favorite of the Cinque Terre towns. So, of course, we were especially excited to visit this neighbor just to the south of Monterosso al Mare.

When the doors of our train opened, a mass of people, including us, poured onto the narrow streets of this tiny town. The crowds topped any we saw in Monterosso. Like a swarm of bees, we were led down the hill and curve of the main street that stretched from the station to the harbor below.

Boats, Umbrellas, Laundry
All Part of the Vernazza Scene

As we walked the day’s laundry floated in the breeze far above our heads. We noticed the town seemed a little worn, perhaps partly from the remnants of the terrible storm that inflicted so much damage a few years before. But maybe a town dating back to as long ago as 1080 deserves the right to be a little tired, a little frayed. Perhaps it wears its age like a badge of honor.

In spite of its rather tired look, or maybe because of it, the enchantment of the town shined through. Its natural harbor and its castle’s ruins, that stood majestically as if still on watch for marauding invaders, were the stars of the show.

Sea Spray

The part of the piazza closest to the water was cordoned off as the waves crashed against the harbor’s rocks with such force that they sent the sea’s spray toward the sky, much like a geyser. Umbrella covered tables were already full of diners enjoying the day and the water show. As we made our way as close as we could to the angry sea, we understood why the boats weren’t running this day.

Yes, We Climbed all the Way Up

For some silly reason, we thought it might be fun to climb to the top of the castle’s lookout. Following the many steps, I thought I might pass out before reaching the top. With a short climb left to go before we earned our reward of what we hoped would be a spectacular view, a woman popped out of a little nook to demand payment before we could proceed any further. Totally not fair … by this time there was way too much invested to turn back … there was no mention of a fee when we began this ridiculous journey, which now seemed days old … such a racket!

Terrific Shoreline View

We paid for the privilege of torturing ourselves a little longer, and continued up more stairs and a spiral so narrow it couldn’t accommodate more than one person in one direction at a time. Finally we were compensated with a stunning view of not only Vernazza, but the whole of the Cinque Terre.

Surveying the land and sea from atop a castle that probably dates back to the 1500s was truly a breath-taking experience, and one we won’t soon forget. But with all that climbing we did work up an appetite, and there just happened to be an excellent restaurant in this very castle … how convenient.

Ristorante Belforte

Happily situated in Ristorante Belforte, dangling far above the roaring sea, we had, what we have both agreed, was the best meal of our trip. Perhaps it was the view, or the fresh air, or the mist from the crashing waves below, or perhaps we were just happy, or extremely hungry, or maybe we were delirious from the climb and the altitude … I don’t know why, but the pasta with shellfish we had for lunch tasted like heaven rose from the sea and landed on our tongues.

Spaghetti with shrimp, tiny clams and a boatload of mussels swimming in a light tomato sauce accompanied by a crisp salad, crunchy bread and, of course, a little vino … it was all local and fresh and just too good. It was a postcard of what a vacation on the coast of Italy should be … only better …