Italy's Cinque Terre ... Manarola, Riomaggiore and Corniglia

Once again we found ourselves chugging along on the local Cinque Terre train. Having left Vernazza we headed further south to discover what additional charms were waiting for us. We skipped the next town of Corniglia, located high in the hills, saving it for the following day (we had already done enough hard climbing in Vernazza for one day).

Manarola

We arrived in Manarola, a bit more rustic and less touristy than both Monterosso and Vernazza. The now familiar pastel buildings trickled down a steep hill overlooking the dazzling swimming cove and harbor below. Above the town, ancient terraces stood proudly, graced with a bounty of vineyards and olive groves. The colorful streets were lined with shops selling local products, and an array of small boats were scattered about as if tossed from the sea. Of course, like all Italian towns, laundry swayed in the breeze from the windows above.

From Manarola to the southern-most town of Riomaggiore lies the easiest part of the area’s hiking trail system. This section, called the Via dell’Amore (the road of love), is named for its romantic, picturesque vistas. We had been looking forward to hiking this particular path, but it was closed due to a recent landslide.

L'Ancora della Tortuga in Monterosso

Back in our “home town” of Monterosso, we had a particularly flavorful dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga. Perched atop the rocky coastline between the new and old parts of town, this restaurant has a dreamy view of new Monterosso and the sea. Unfortunately, we were not able to dine outside because of weather, but the inside was comfortable and pleasant.

We started with the best appetizer of our trip, a mixed seafood grill and smaller mix of fried seafood thrown in for good measure. The whole meal was excellent, but the appetizers were truly outstanding for their creativity, presentation, taste and freshness.

Between our delicious lunch at Ristorante Belforte and dinner at L'Ancora della Tortuga, this was our most palate pleasing day of travel … and we needed sustenance to make our long trek back uphill to the hotel.

Riomaggiore

After breakfast the next morning we headed down to a now calmer sea to board a ferry taking us to the final two towns of the Cinque Terre; Riomaggiore, the most southern of the five towns and Corniglia on the hill in the middle.

Viewing these enchanting towns from the water made us feel as though we had tumbled into an impressionist painting. I’ve overused the word charm, but this area absolutely oozes it.

Riomaggiore is where we disembarked from the ferry. To call this a port is laughable, the boat pulls up to some flat rocks, a wobbly plank is thrown down and people stagger off at their own risk. Climbing up the rocks to town, we stopped for a light lunch in a small café with a killer view of the coast. We had simple sandwiches with fresh ham and melted cheese, added by a little vino and there you have it, a perfect lunch on the cliffs.

Just One of the Locals

The main road was a long, steady climb to the top of town. Along with the homes, cafés, stores, flower-draped balconies, and laundry that line all the town's streets,  we also discovered one lovely little church after another. We explored all the nooks and crannies, coming upon little treasures in the form of murals, food displays and a resting kitty.

If we had not stayed in Monterosso, this would have been our second choice. It was easy to spend time there and, yes, it was charming.

Corniglia by Sea

Corniglia is the only town that does not have a port. It is located on top of a hill and requires a steep climb from the train station to get to the town’s center. Thus, we needed to board a train to get from Riomaggiore to Corniglia.

As we trekked up the hill we passed by incredible views of the sea and the neighboring town of Manarola. We walked along terraced vineyards with inventive wine trains used to harvest the grapes.

Streets of Corniglia

Our long journey was rewarded with the least touristy of the five towns. Corniglia was a microcosm of all the towns we visited and was, perhaps, the quaintest of them all. It didn’t take long to explore the shops and church, giving us an excuse to relax in a small piazza and enjoy a glass of wine with a mix of both locals and tourists.

Upon our return to Monterosso, we dined at Ristorante Miky, a highly rated restaurant that had been recommended by many including our hotel's owner. We thought it would be the perfect way to bid arrivederci to the Cinque Terre.

Cheers to the Cinque Terre ... We Miss You

Well, not so much.  In a nutshell, we found the service to be a bit patronizing and arrogant, and the food to be rather bland and not at all out of the ordinary. It was probably our most disappointing meal of the trip.

Overall though, we can’t complain about a thing in this wonderful little corner of Italy. It is, dare I say it again, simply charming ...