Horn of Plenty with Berries and Cream

If you are planning a special New Year's dinner, this horn of plenty (cornucopia) ... overflowing with berries and cream ... is the perfect light ending to a rich meal.

Dating as far back as the period of classical antiquity, the horn of plenty represents the bounty in life. More often associated with the fall and Thanksgiving, I also like to welcome the New Year with this horn filled with wishes for a prosperous, happy and healthy year to come for our family and friends.

Although it looks impressive with its beautiful presentation, this recipe is very easy to make.  The horns (molded cookies) can be prepared ahead of time, making it easy to assemble at the last minute. The horns can be made gluten-free by substituting GF flour for the all-purpose flour.

Horn of Plenty with Berries and Cream
(Serves 8.)

• 3 ounces (3/4 stick) unsalted butter
• 6 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1 egg white
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour mix for a GF dessert)
• 1 cup heavy whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 cup of mixed berries, rinsed and dried
• Mint leaves, for garnish
• Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
• Metal cream horn molds

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Horn of Plenty with Berries and Cream

Line a cookie sheet with a reusable nonstick cooking mat.

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Remove from heat. While it still is warm, add the sugar and whisk it into the butter. Add the vanilla and egg white and whisk to combine. Add the flour and continue to whisk until smooth.

Spoon heaping tablespoons of the dough onto the prepared cookie sheet, making only 4 cookies at a time as they will spread. Using the bowl of a teaspoon, spread the cookies in a circular motion until each cookie is about 5 inches in diameter.

Bake for about 10 minutes, or until nicely browned. Remove from the oven and let the cookies rest for about 1 1/2 minutes before molding. (If molding is done too soon, the cookies will break.)

To mold, roll each large warm cookie around the cream horn mold, or simply roll the cookies free-form into a cone shape without the mold. As soon as a free-form cone is rolled, place a small cone-shaped ball of crushed aluminum foil inside the cone to prevent it from collapsing while it dries.

Allow the cookies to cool and harden for 10 minutes before removing.

Whip the cream and sugar together until stiff.

Partially fill the horn with the whipped cream* and berries, either by piping the cream or spooning it. Garnish with mint and dust with confectioners’ sugar.

*Horns can also be filled with pastry cream (creamy custard) as pictured above and decorated with the whipped cream.

Leftovers ... Now Appearing as Pasta & Ham Mornay

When I was single I used to cook a chicken on Sunday and then make meals out of it all week long. I was a master of disguises … chicken disguises that is. The chicken would appear the first night unadulterated with a side dish of some kind. The next night it would be nestled among spaghetti disguised as tetrazzini. Then perhaps it would go off to India and become chicken curry with rice. It would then put on a bathing suit and jump into a pot of chicken noodle soup ... you get the idea.

I was perfectly happy munching on that poor, overworked chicken all week long. Then I married a man that, much to my horror, doesn’t like leftovers! How could this be? The best part of any meal is the leftovers!

Curiously, he will happily take the leftovers for lunch. As a matter of fact, he feels entitled to them. So I now pack them up in lunch-sized portions and send them off. But, when I have leftover potatoes, fish, poultry or meat, I wait a day and then bring out the disguises.

No those aren’t the mashed potatoes we had the other night, this is shepherd’s pie. That? Oh, that’s pasta mornay, nothing to do with that leftover ham we had. I know these salmon cakes look a lot like the baked salmon from Monday, but that’s just a coincidence … And so it goes.

It is amazing how much he enjoys these non-leftovers, and what he doesn’t know, certainly won’t hurt him!

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This easy "one pot" pasta dish is a true 30-minute meal and is a great way to use up leftover ham. It requires little prep work and can be cooked, with the exception of boiling the pasta, in the microwave.

Pasta and Ham Mornay
(Serves 4.)

• 1 1/4 cups uncooked penne pasta
• 1/2 cup sliced zucchini, 1/8 inch thick
• 1/3 cup frozen peas
• 2 tablespoons diced shallots
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 teaspoons snipped fresh parsley
• 1/4 teaspoon dried basil leaves
• Dash pepper
• 2 teaspoons flour
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 tablespoons shredded Swiss or jack cheese
• 8 ounces of cooked ham, sliced or cubed

 Pasta & Ham Mornay

Cook pasta as directed on package. Drain and set aside.

In a 1 1/2-quart casserole, combine zucchini, peas, shallot, butter, parsley, basil and pepper. Cover and microwave at high for 2 to 3 minutes, or until vegetables are tender-crisp, stirring once.

Stir in flour. Slowly add the milk and stir until flour and milk are well combined.

Return to microwave, uncovered, and cook at high for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 minutes, or until mixture thickens and bubbles, stirring once or twice. Stir in Swiss cheese, ham and pasta. Re-cover and microwave at high for 1 to 3 minutes, or until heated through.

Travels in Italy ... Florence

We checked into Hotel David for our visit to Florence.We were celebrating our anniversary and as we entered our comfy room we were greeted with a bottle of sparkling wine, a little cake and a note from the staff … an unexpected treat and so very nice them.

The hotel is located across the river from the main part of town. It is a bit of a walk along the river to the old city center, but it is easy and pleasant.

Entrance to Hotel David

Many enjoyable extras are provided by the hotel for their guests including free WiFi, a free mini-bar, international phone calls, and an evening (6:30 to 8:00PM) happy hour when the staff lays out a generous spread of hors d'oeuvres and vino.

Our room was spacious and nicely appointed with a modern bath and a great little balcony. It was late in the day and we popped open the bubbly and headed to the balcony, happy to relax after a long day of touring and traveling.

As we were preparing to go out, it started to absolutely pour so we didn’t want to go too far for dinner. We were directed by the hotel to a nearby restaurant called Gattabuia.
Soaking wet, we arrived hungry and ready to eat. When asked if we had a reservation, we had to laugh as we looked around at the empty restaurant on this dark and stormy Sunday night. We ordered salads and shared the first pizza of our trip. Perhaps we were just hungry, but it all tasted extremely good. Can’t say the service was overly friendly, but on that very wet night, it was a good port in the storm.

View from the Boboli Gardens

The hotel's room rate includes a breakfast that offers a wide range of tasty items and a choice of seating inside or out in their backyard patio. Well fed, we headed out to spend the morning wandering the Boboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace.

The expansive gardens cover 11 acres on the slopes across the Arno River from the main part of town. Laden with fountains and statuary, the gardens are lovely with many areas to explore, such as the little Porcelaine Museum that houses a delightful collection of tableware belonging to the royal families that once ruled Tuscany. The location of the gardens provides the perfect vantage point for viewing all of Florence. Even if you do not wish to visit the palace itself, the gardens are worth a stop.

View of the Ponte Vecchio

We lunched on the river at the Golden View. We did indeed have a great view of the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi Gallery and the river. We very much enjoyed this spot, the food was good, the staff was efficient and pleasant, and it was reasonably priced … who could ask for more? During the cocktail hour this same restaurant hikes up their drink prices, but lays out an incredible spread of heavy appetizers that could actually be dinner if you just wanted something light to eat.

If you have never been to Florence and are an admirer of Italian paintings, you must visit the Uffizi Gallery. To say this is a popular attraction is an understatement. To avoid long lines get a Firenze Card or make a reservation.

A visit to the Accademia Gallery to see Michelangelo's David is also a must for any visit to Florence, it definitely does not disappoint. Michelangelo's statues leading up to the David are incomplete, yet interesting. As far as I’m concerned, there isn’t too much else in this small museum, but the splendid David alone makes it well worth the stop. It is best to reserve tickets in advance, or go late in the day when the lines have thinned.

Duomo

One evening, as we walked up to the Duomo, we were simply awestruck. What a magnificent structure it is, and so beautifully lit at night. It is hard to imagine how something of this magnitude could have been built so long ago. The detailed exterior belies the rather simple interior of this amazing structure.

The nearby baptistery is also something to behold. Its bronze doors, although high quality replicas, are incredible in their fine workmanship. You can view the original doors by visiting the Duomo Museum.

There are many other beautiful churches to explore in Florence that are also filled with fine frescoes, sculptures and stained glass.

Copious Amounts of Gelato

We walked and walked during our time in Florence, spending time admiring the shops brimming with gold jewelry on the Ponte Vecchio; strolling past one magnificent piazza after another; exploring the markets filled with leather goods; and enjoying an outdoor café or a little gelato every now and then.

This was my second visit to Florence. What I most enjoy about this glorious city isn’t popping into one tourist site after another; it’s walking the streets.

The architecture and the history that can be enjoyed simply by wandering around town and exploring its nooks and crannies is the finest experience of all.

Bloody Mary Shrimp Shots

For a fun and quick hors d'oeuvre or appetizer to start off your holiday meal, make some Bloody Mary Shrimp Shots. They are delicious and festive and only take minutes to make. If you don't want the alcohol, make Virgin Bloody Mary Shots simply by omitting the vodka...even easier!

Bloody Mary Shrimp Shots
(8 to 10 shot glasses.)

• 1 cup bloody Mary mix
• 2 ounces of vodka
• 16 peeled, deveined and cooked shrimp
• 8 shot or vodka glasses
• Green olives for garnish

Bloody Mary Shrimp Shots

Combine bloody Mary mix and the vodka. Mix well and distribute among each glass.

Add two shrimp to the rim of each glass.

Garnish with olives (or lemon or other favorite garnish).

Chocolate-Mocha Bûche de Noël

Why not try a little something dramatic to end a holiday meal? This Bûche de Noël, or yule log, is such a beautiful holiday dessert, I just love the look of it, and the taste is even better! It is delicious ... and it really isn't nearly as difficult to make as it looks. I've even made it gluten-free by substituting a GF flour mix with good results.

Best of all, it can hold well made a day in advance.

Chocolate-Mocha Bûche de Noël (Yule Log)
(Serves 12.)

• 6 eggs
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free flour blend)
• 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• Confectioners' sugar
• Coffee buttercream frosting (recipe follows)
• Bittersweet chocolate ganache (recipe follows)

Position a rack in the middle of oven.
Preheat oven to 350°F.

Chocolate-Mocha Bûche de Noël (Yule Log)

Butter a 10 by 15 by 1 inch jelly-roll pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper. Butter and flour the paper and pan sides.

In a large, heatproof bowl, combine the eggs, granulated sugar and espresso powder. Place over (not touching) gently boiling water and whisk until just warm to the touch. Remove from the heat. Using an electric mixer set on high speed, beat until tripled in volume and soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. In a sifter, combine the flour, cocoa and salt. Sift directly onto the egg mixture. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the mixtures together. Drizzle on the butter and fold it in.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely in the pan.

Place a large sheet of waxed paper on a work surface. Using a sifter or sieve, generously dust the paper with confectioners' sugar. Invert the jelly-roll pan onto the paper and lift off the pan. Peel off the parchment paper.

Spread the buttercream evenly over the cake. Beginning at a long side, roll up the cake jelly-roll style. Using a sharp knife, cut off the ends on the diagonal so that each piece is 1 inch on ones side and 3 inches on the other. Place one piece, cut side to cake, on top of the cake toward one end. Place the other piece, cut side to cake, on the side of the cake toward the other end. The cake should resemble a log with cut limbs.

Stir the ganache until spreadable, then frost the cake, including all the ends.Using a fork, run the tines in circles on the ends and cut limbs of the log. Then run the tines the length of the log to simulate bark. Just before serving, sift confectioners' sugar over the log, to simulate snow. Slice crosswise to serve.

Bittersweet Chocolate Ganache
(Makes about 1 cup.)
• 1/2 cup heavy (double) cream
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
• 6 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

In a small, heavy saucepan over high heat, combine the cream, butter and corn syrup. Bring to a boil and remove from the heat.

Stir in the chocolate and then place over low heat. Whisk until the chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and use as directed.

Coffee Buttercream Frosting
(Makes about 1 1/4 cup.)
• 4 egg yolks
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder
• 2 tablespoons brandy
• 3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

In the top pan of a double boiler or a heatproof bowl, placed over (not touching) simmering water, combine the egg yolks, sugar, espresso powder and brandy. Whisk until very thick and pale, about 4 minutes. Remove the pan or bowl from over the water and let cool to room temperature.

In a bowl, combine the butter and vanilla. Using an electric mixer set on medium-high speed, beat until very soft and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in the cooled egg yolk mixture. Let the mixture stand at room temperature, stirring occasionally, until spreadable, about 20 minutes.

Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate overnight or freeze for up to 1 month. Before using, let stand at room temperature until softened, then beat with an electric mixer set on high speed until smooth and fluffy.

Touring Prague

People inhabited Prague as early as 5500 BC. Here, in a young country such as the United States, it is hard to imagine the history of a city like Prague or a country like Czechia.

Old Town

Through the years Prague has endured much turmoil and has overcome many struggles in search of its independence. The “golden” age for Prague was the 14th century during the reign of Charles IV. Many of the beautiful structures that decorate the city were built during this period, and it was also during this era that Prague became the capital of the Bohemian Kingdom and the Holy Roman Empire.

Later, Prague fell under Habsburg rule which lasted some 300 years. The end of World War I brought the defeat of the Habsburgs’ Austro-Hungarian Empire.  In 1918 a proclamation led to the independence of the new Czechoslovakia and Prague became its capital.  Freedom, however, was fleeting as 20 years later Czechoslovakia was occupied by Nazi Germany, and the holocaust began.

In 1948 the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia, with Soviet backing, assumed control of the country, leading to four decades of communist dictatorship.

Historically, Prague had been made up of an even number of Czech, German and Jewish people. Only about 5 percent of the Jewish population survived the holocaust. The Germans were driven out after the end of World War II, leaving Prague almost entirely Czech.

Cemetery in the Jewish Quarter

In 1989 Czechoslovakia won its independence. This very old area was new again. Four years later the country split in two forming the Czech Republic and Slovakia. The Czech Republic joined the European Union in 2004.

Knowing a little of the history of Prague can help to understand this complicated city and its people. A visit to the Jewish Quarter’s museum, with its synagogues and cemetery, is a haunting reminder of the devastation of the holocaust. A stroll across the Charles Bridge is a reminder of Prague’s best years when King Charles IV commissioned the bridge.

Prague is made up of four areas; the Old Town, New Town, Lesser Town and The Castle. As we meandered through the narrow streets of the city, one of our favorite stops was the Old Town Square. During the holiday season, the square was particularly brilliant with lighted trees and a Christmas market. The Old Town Square was founded in the 10th century as a marketplace. Over the centuries many important political events and demonstrations took place in this square. Coronation parades would pass through as they marched toward the castle.

Inside St. Vitus Cathedral

The square was just as pretty in the daylight as it was all lit up at night. The constant throng of people made it difficult at times to maneuver from one end to the other, but it was dazzling to behold nonetheless. At the top of the hour crowds gathered around the astronomical clock to watch the twelve apostles parade by and to listen to the bells toll. The surrounding buildings were dramatic with their graceful lines and decorative facades.

Churches abound everywhere in Prague and they are all worth a peek inside. The most imposing is St. Vitus Cathedral looming high on the hill in the Castle Quarter. A hike up to the castle rewards with an incredible view that stretches across the whole city.  The buildings are still home to the government and visitors can enjoy the changing of the guard.

The Charles Bridge is a 14th century stone pedestrian-only bridge stretching across the Vltava River and linking the Old Town with the Lesser Town. Seventy-five statues adorn the bridge and a tower welcomes visitors on both sides. The bridge affords terrific views of the city, especially at sunset.

There are many museums to explore. One that is a little off the beaten path and less of a tourist attraction than other Prague sites, is the Mucha Museum.

The Municipal House

The museum is housed in a large building, but the museum is actually just one main room on the first floor with an alcove running a film about the life of Alfons Mucha. The artist’s pieces on exhibit are all good and nicely displayed.

The film is fascinating and very educational. It is definitely worth the time to view it in its entirety. Anyone that is an admirer of Mucha, or simply a fan of Art Nouveau, should visit this little gem.

Concerts can be found everywhere day and night, mostly in churches but also in the lovely Art Nouveau Municipal House. The Smetana Hall is an absolutely beautiful venue to see a professional concert, and truly should not be missed.

Prague is an exceptionally attractive city with many historic sites worth exploring. Despite its beauty, years under communist rule have left something behind. It is hard to put a finger on it as it is, indeed, an incredibly pretty city, but it somehow lacks the genteel feeling of Vienna. It is magical though, and it is no wonder the tourists have discovered it in huge numbers.

Salad with Apples, Grapes, Pecans and Brie Cheese

This recipe is based on a lovely, fresh salad I had on our trip to Prague. The salad has a nice combination of tastes and textures and is perfect served before dinner or as a main course for a light lunch.

Salad with Apples, Grapes, Pecans and Brie Cheese
(Serves 6.)

• 4 cups chopped Belgium endive or lettuce or a combination
• 1 apple, sliced
• Small bunch of red or green seedless grapes, cut in half
• 1 cup pecan or walnut halves, lightly toasted
• Brie cheese, cut in small rounds or wedges
• Lemon vinaigrette, recipe follows (or use your favorite citrus or raspberry vinaigrette)

Salad with Apples, Grapes, Pecans and Brie Cheese

Make vinaigrette and set aside.

Place the greens, apple slices, cut grapes and nut halves in a bowl.  Add enough of the vinaigrette to moisten and toss.

Divide the salad mixture among six plates.  Arrange some of the Brie slices on each plate.  Serve with French bread slices or melba toasts.








Lemon Vinaigrette
• 1  tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

In a small bowl whisk together the mustard, lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper until well mixed. 

Wining and Dining in Prague

It felt sad leaving Vienna as we boarded our train to Prague … there was so much left to explore.

Daylight was drawing to an end as we rolled through the hills of the Austrian and Czechia countrysides. The snow fell softly upon quaint little towns all dressed in twinkling lights. It looked like a Christmas card.

We arrived in the evening cold and hungry from our journey. After checking into our hotel we set off in search of a bite to eat. One place was booked solid, another was too smoke-filled. We came upon a nice little hotel restaurant facing the Republic Square.

Christmas Market in Wenceslas Square

“Do you wish to sit inside or out?” the young man asked. Are you kidding me? It is 25 degrees Fahrenheit out there, what kind of a question is that? ... I thought to myself. We did sit outside among the heat lamps in the glassed-in patio. It was pleasant, albeit a little nippy, gazing onto the square taking in the beautiful buildings, the people dashing here and there, and a brightly lit Christmas tree.

We didn't order anything fancy, just soup and sandwiches, but on this cold night it was just what we wanted and this restaurant, with its friendly staff and casual ambiance, suited perfectly.

A little tired we weren’t sure what to do next. Should we be wimps and settle into our nice, warm hotel for the night? … it was just steps away … we could see it from the window … it was actually calling to us. Or should we brave the cold and set out for a walk to, hmmm, who knows where?

Making Trdelnik

We didn’t have our map with us but, having studied it previously, I had kind of a sense of where to go. So off we went, deciding to be brave, wimpy isn’t for us … no siree!

We ended up in the new town at the Christmas tree in Wenceslas Square. A turn to the left provided us with a stunning view of sparkling white lights leading down the square to the majestic National Museum building. As in Vienna, there was a Christmas market full of handmade crafts, food and drink.

The market food was different than in Vienna … large hams were roasting on spits and trdelnik were turning on grills. Trdelnik is a traditional hot sugar-coated pastry. The pastry is made from rolled dough wrapped around a stick, then grilled and topped with a sugar and walnut mix. Barbecued sausages were plentiful as were beer and an assortment of warm drinks. The aromas wafting up from the hams and pastries were intoxicating.

Old Town Square

After taking it all in, we followed the crowd down a narrow street toward Old Town Square. As we approached I was awestruck. It is difficult to put into words how lovely this square was, all decorated in its holiday finery. It was simply stunning.

It was hard to know where to look. With each quarter turn there was something more dramatic, more majestic and more beautiful to gaze upon. Churches, old town hall with its astronomical clock, museums, restaurants, lighted trees, angels and a large Christmas market filled the square. I don't believe I've seen a prettier place or one with such history.

Something else caught my attention … people were dining outside. Now I’m not talking about standing around a market with a sausage in hand or about sitting in a heated glassed-in pavilion; I mean they were sitting outside enjoying a meal! May I remind you that the temperatures were in the 20s (that’s Fahrenheit, not Celsius). I thought the Viennese were hearty, but I think the people of Prague have them beat!

Outdoor Dining in Old Town Square

In addition to its traditional restaurants, Prague is also full of many ethnic dining options. We enjoyed Italian and French dishes along with our goulash and, with one exception, everything was cooked well and presented beautifully.

Cafés were prevalent here … not quite the café culture we found in Vienna, but they were plentiful with some as opulent as those in Vienna. We had our morning coffee nearby in the sumptuous Municipal House Café, Kavárna Obecní dům.  Enjoying a coffee in this art nouveau café ... with its dramatic high ceilings, large windows, and gorgeous crystal chandeliers ... was as much an event as viewing the sites.

Francouzska Restaurant

Across the hall, a more formal and even more luxurious restaurant beckoned. After attending a concert at the Municipal House’s Smetana Hall, we had a late dinner at the French Francouzska restaurant. The fresh white tablecloths, sparkling silver, crystal place settings, and dramatic décor made dining here very special. Music from a piano floated from the back of the restaurant further adding to the lovely ambiance.

As it was late, we decided to just have soup and an appetizer for dinner. My husband and I each had the beef consommé with vegetables and dark home-made noodles to start, and the salad with smoked duck breast and orange dressing as our main course.  The soup was simple, but flavorful and the salad was exquisite both in its presentation and its taste. We also enjoyed some nice local wines with our meal.

Francouzska's Smoked Duck Breast

On a cold night after the concert it was nice to be able to slip into this lovely restaurant with its professional, yet friendly, staff and have a nice something to eat without leaving the building.

Across from our hotel we had dinner at another French restaurant one night, a bistro called Brasserie La Gare. This one was a total disappointment.

I love French bistro food and was looking forward to trying this restaurant. We were seated in front where upon a very cold breeze would blow on us with each opening of the door … of which there were many. My husband had a cold and this didn’t help it.

We started with what was called a mixed salad. It was nothing more than mixed bell peppers, not what we expected, and not at all to our liking. Had we known it was a pepper salad, we would never have ordered it.

Floating by in Front of our Window at Kampa Park

After pushing our peppers around and enduring many cold blasts of air, we were presented with our main courses. My husband’s duck breast arrived alone on a plate with a small pitcher of chocolate-cherry sauce on the side, not very appetizing in its appearance ... completely opposite from the duck at Francouzska. It tasted okay, but was nothing special.

My cassoulet contained lots of dry beans, two large chunks of bone, a huge ring of fat, and a couple slices of actual pork. It was awful. When a girl appeared to clear the table, I told her there was little meat, mostly bone and fat in my cassoulet. She could not have cared less.

It was too bad that one out of our three dinners in Prague was wasted in this place, but luckily, every other restaurant was very enjoyable.

King Kampa Club

Late one afternoon we noticed Kampa Park, a river-front continental restaurant, from the Charles Bridge and set off to take a look. After a couple of false starts, we found it and enjoyed a leisurely lunch watching the swans on the Vltava River gracefully float by.

Our waitress was so nice, friendly and efficient ... always there when we needed something yet never hovering.

My husband started with the pumpkin soup with black trumpet mushrooms, which he very much enjoyed on this cold winter's day. I started with the apple-endive salad with grapes, walnuts and brie cheese which was light, refreshing and delightful ... I actually attempted to duplicate this salad at home and it turned out great.

View of the Charles Bridge from Kampa Park

Our selected entrées were the King Kampa Club sandwich ... grilled beef, egg, bacon and Mediterranean vegetables on country bread ... and the rigatoni with a creamy mushroom sauce. The sandwich was huge and my husband still talks about how good and unusual it was.

We had some nice local wine with our meal and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of our scenic lunch right on the water.

For our very last meal in town we went Italian. While touring the Jewish quarter section of the Old Town, we passed a beautiful building that housed what looked like a lovely place to toast our last day, not only in Prague, but of our entire trip. Again we had a delightful meal.

View Across the River from the Jewish Quarter

We found our dining experiences in Prague to be similar to Vienna. Both cities have an outdoor culture, even in the bitter cold of winter. With their food, drink and merriment, Christmas markets add to the spirit of the outdoors.

Housed in historic and often elaborate buildings, good restaurants from many regions abound. Staffs are friendly and anxious to please. Meat and potatoes are the main ingredients, we found little seafood and few vegetables on the menus.

Beer is popular in Vienna, but it is king in Prague. Pilsner beer was invented in Prague and it is said that the best beers are indeed from this area. The wines, both red and white, were of surprisingly good quality … something we were not expecting.

It was a pleasure and a privilege to be able to wine and dine in Prague and in Vienna. We were very lucky to have had the opportunity, especially during the Christmas season when the cities sparkled and shined, to visit this welcoming region of Europe.

Vienna's Food Culture

Unlike cities in the US, Vienna is not crammed with soulless restaurant chains or the large, noisy, overpriced next new thing. That is not to say that you can’t find a fast food place there but, fortunately, they are the exception and not the rule.

From palaces and museums to music and towering cathedrals, Vienna oozes with history and culture. Its food, too, has a history and culture all its own, and includes a whole culture developed around their coffee.

Café Central

The coffee house has been a culinary staple for centuries and, although many of the old glorious cafés have closed, the tradition of savoring a cup of coffee with friends or over a newspaper is still very much alive and well.

The cafés are elegant … it is easy to overuse that word while writing about Vienna, but how else do you describe a grand room with marble pillars soaring up to a tall arched ceiling dressed with dangling crystal chandeliers? … elegant is the word, plain and simple.

Cafés dot the city like jewels on a crown. Each has its own individual character but the common theme is a lovely place to stop and linger over a fine cup of coffee or tea, a light meal or a decadent pastry. Whenever I strolled by one I would stop and stare through the window, like a child gazing upon a candy store, yearning to join the crowd for a slice of cake and a cup of rich coffee.

A Bounty of Pastries

Pastries are an art in Vienna. The most famous is the Sachertorte, but there are multitudes of fine, delicious pastries available to satisfy anyone's sweet tooth.

On the opposite end of the culinary spectrum is the Viennese street food. Being there in December, the ubiquitous Christmas markets provided even more food stalls than in other times of the year. The two food items I noticed most often were the warm punches and the frankfurters being sold among the Christmas ornaments and trinkets.

My husband had seen Anthony Bourdain enjoy a frankfurter with melted cheese inside called a Käsekrainer. Although I don’t think I’ve ever seen him eat anything remotely similar, he was determined to have one. One morning at the Christmas market in front of Belvedere Palace he couldn’t resist any longer. Offering me a piece, I gazed upon it as though he was offering a chopped up piece of snake. “I think I’ll pass.” “Just try it.” … went the conversation. I did try it, it was delicious.

Market Stalls

It was cold while we were there. I was bundled up in so many layers I looked like the Michelin man, but to the Viennese people it was nothing. They don’t let a little cold or sleet stop them. No, any time of the day or night people stood outside, enjoying their companions, beer, punch, food, whatever; as though it was toasty warm outside.

The largest market of all is open year round and is called the Naschmarkt. In 1898 the city covered up the Vienna River and created a lively and colorful market, which is still bustling and thriving today. Housing nearly 120 market stands and restaurants, chefs and locals buy their fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, and bread and cheese there. Beautiful displays of food and spices are laid out like artwork. Specialty items such as caviar and an assortment of international goods can also be found there. It’s a fun place for foodies to browse and stop for samples or a bite to eat.

Naschmarkt Goodies

Another uniquely Viennese institution is the wine garden tavern, or Heuriger. Vienna is the only city that has acres of vineyards, as many as 1700 acres, located within the city limits. Along the edge of the city, between the Vienna Woods and town, these wineries sell their young wines as well as local food to tourists and natives alike.

The custom dates back to the year 1784 when the ruling Habsburgs released a decree allowing wine producers to sell their wine tax-free in their gardens to people happening by. Today, the vintners still maintain an old-village setting, inviting the public to drink and to dine in their cellars, gardens or vineyards and to perhaps enjoy a little music.

I have to say I was really taken with Vienna. For a large city it had almost a small town way about it. There was so much to do there, something for everyone. We were lucky to have been there in December to witness the splendid way they celebrate the holiday season. I would, however, like to return in warmer weather to explore activities we were not able to do in the cold of winter. Perhaps an opportunity will present itself in the future, maybe even this year. Until then, I salute Vienna, its customs and its people, I enjoyed every minute.

Homemade Cranberry Sauce

In honor of the holidays and a meal we had in Vienna, here is a simple recipe for homemade cranberry sauce. Cranberry sauce is not just for turkey or for the holidays. In Vienna we enjoyed it with brie toast and with a serving of Wiener schnitzel. So next time you serve pork or cheese or any kind of poultry, think of cranberry sauce to add a little tart and sweetness to your dish.

Homemade Cranberry Sauce
(Makes 1 cup.)

• 3/4 cup white sugar
• 1 cup orange juice
• 12 ounces cranberries
• 1 tablespoon of orange zest

Homemade Cranberry Sauce

Place the sugar and orange juice in a medium-sized saucepan. Place pan over medium heat, dissolving the sugar in the orange juice. 

Stir in the cranberries and orange zest. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer for about 15 minutes or until the cranberries start to pop and sauce has thickened. For a thicker sauce, cook a bit longer, but keep in mind the sauce will thicken further as it cools.

Remove from heat and place the sauce in a bowl. Keep refrigerated until use.

Eating and Drinking in Vienna

Back to sparkling Vienna and onto its food and wine.

I didn’t really know what to expect from the Viennese cuisine. What kinds of dishes would be laid upon our table I wondered as visions of sausages and beer danced in my head. I must admit this was not a welcoming vision. I am not much of a meat eater … this is not to say that I do not like meat or that I have anything against it, I don’t, it just is not my preference. When eating at home or dining out, both my husband’s and my tastes run more toward seafood, poultry, pasta and fresh produce.

And I don’t care for beer at all … perhaps it takes me back to my youth as a college freshman, forcing myself to drink the liquid gold topped with foam flowing from the tap at keg parties … only to be followed by my rushing off, sick and miserable the rest of the night.

Oh dear, would I find anything to eat or drink in this gracious city? Why, yes I would! As a matter of fact, I didn’t have a bad morsel the whole time we were there … meat and all … and I loved every restaurant in which we dined … from the atmosphere and menu choices to the friendly, helpful staff.

Restaurant Pürstner

As with most large cities, Vienna had a melting pot of restaurant choices, and let us not forget the plethora of street food and drink available at the outdoor markets.

We arrived at our hotel around dinner time, tired and hungry after a very long and difficult trip from the US. All of the hotel’s restaurants were booked, so we were directed to Pürstner, a nearby Viennese restaurant.

They didn’t think we would need a reservation, but when we arrived it was completely full. Perhaps it was the pathetic, desperate and tired look upon our faces, but after a few minutes wait they graciously accommodated us, even though they were turning others away.

Restaurant Pürstner, run for three generations by the Pürstner family, is located in a house built in the turn of the century. Loaded with personality and charm, both in its atmosphere and its staff, the restaurant looked quite touristy but seemed to attract locals as well. We settled into a comfortable booth and enjoyed some nice local wine … we didn’t have to drink beer, yeah! … while we chomped on a tasty appetizer of Camembert cheese bread with cranberry sauce.

Restaurant Pürstner Interior

The entrée menu consisted mostly of beef and pork dishes, so my husband and I both found ourselves ordering meat. He ordered the escalope of pork, stuffed with ham and cheese, which he thoroughly enjoyed. I had the biggest Wiener schnitzel that I have ever seen, it covered the entire plate. Its size was deceiving though, as it was incredibly thin and actually very light. The server suggested I keep the cranberry sauce from the appetizer to go with the schnitzel. He was right; it added a lot of flavor and a touch of sweet and tart to the dish.

The food was good, the prices reasonable and the service and atmosphere were friendly and fun ... who could ask for more? We had such a good time that we brought two colleagues back with us a couple of nights later. This time my husband had the boiled beef with roasted potatoes, chive sauce and apple horseradish sauce; and I ordered the medallions of pork roasted with mushrooms a la crème and spätzle. Again, we thoroughly enjoyed everything, and so did our guests.

We also dined Viennese style at Restaurant Der Kuckuck, a pleasant restaurant that served a good selection of traditional food. With its white tablecloths, yet casual feel, this restaurant had a nice, easy atmosphere.

Restaurant Der Kuckuck

My husband and I both chose to try something a little out of the box, in terms of Austrian food, for our entrées. I had their crispy parcels stuffed with vegetables, rösti and homemade fruit-chutney. The dish was very flavorful with a nice crunch and the chutney lent a nice sweetness to the dish. It reminded me in taste and texture of an eggroll, which I always enjoy.

My husband liked his stuffed cabbage roll served with a forest-mushroom sauce, boiled potatoes and vegetables. It resembled a dish available in parts of the US called Halupkies, which I believe is Polish in origin. The meal was a nice departure from some of the heavier dishes we ate along the way. We had some nice wine and thought this restaurant was a very nice find in the city center.

Speaking of wine, it was a nice surprise to not only find excellent Austrian white wines, but red as well, in every restaurant we visited. One day we went for a late lunch at a wine bar/wine store called 3 Hacken Magazin.

The young man working both the bar and the floor recommended wines, white for me and a red for my husband. They were both excellent, as good as any wine found in any wine region (we ended up buying a bottle of each at very reasonable prices). We ordered small plates of goulash from the rather limited menu which was very tasty.

Cantinetta La Norma

One thing always amazes and puzzles me when I travel in Europe … why is it that all these good wines are priced so much more reasonably than in the US. I really must say, we are getting ripped off, not only in restaurants, but in the stores as well!

Until now I’ve talked about the Viennese restaurants and food, but we also went for Italian two nights … I did say there was a melting pot full of choices. The first Italian restaurant was a postage stamp sized place called Cantinetta La Norma. What an entertaining evening we had in this funny little gem.

Probably no more than eight tables graced this place, and it was more than a little disorganized, but that made it all the more charming. We were very casual that evening, ordering wine, salads and pizza. It was a nice departure from the steady diet of the heavier Viennese food that we had been having. Everything was good, but it was the fun and quirkiness of this little place, the homey atmosphere, and the friendly service that made it so very enjoyable.

Our second Italian choice was a larger and more reserved kind of restaurant called Danieli.  I selected this restaurant on behalf of six friends/business colleagues because I had read about it and happened to pass by while roaming around the city center.

Hopeful that I had chosen wisely, I was not disappointed. The brick walls and lovely chandeliers gave the restaurant kind of a homey/elegant feel. It was very inviting and very comfortable.

 Ristorante Danieli

We started with some appetizers for the table which included assorted Tuscan-style crostini; buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes and fresh basil; and prosciutto di Parma. We also selected a nice bottle of Chianti. We were transported to Italy and everything was fresh and flavorful … we were off to a good start.

Most in the group ordered pasta as their main meal. My husband ordered the lasagna with sugo of young boar, oven-roasted Tuscan-style, served on creamy Savoy cabbage with morels: it was fantastic. My spaghetti ai frutti di mare della casa (spaghetti with seafood of the house) was good ... I can’t say exactly what the seafood was as it was cut in bits and pieces ... but it was enjoyable none-the-less.

There were a couple of dessert takers, two ordered the tiramisù and one ordered the hot orange zabaglione with vanilla ice-cream ... there was nothing left on their plates. It was all good and reasonable, and the wait staff was friendly and efficient. Everyone enjoyed it and agreed it was a very good pick for our little gathering, whew!

I found Vienna to be elegant and sophisticated on the outside, charming and cozy on the inside, and the restaurants felt the same way.  We didn't go to the most famous or most popular restaurants for our dinners. Instead we chose local neighborhood places near our hotel, and we found each to be totally unique and delightful. 

My next posting will speak to the food culture in Vienna, from its elegant cafés to its wine gardens and street markets …