12.16.2018

Touring Prague


People inhabited Prague as early as 5500 BC. Here, in a young country such as the United States, it is hard to imagine the history of a city like Prague or a country like Czechia.

Old Town
Through the years Prague has endured much turmoil and has overcome many struggles in search of its independence. The “golden” age for Prague was the 14th century during the reign of Charles IV. Many of the beautiful structures that decorate the city were built during this period, and it was also during this era that Prague became the capital of the Bohemian Kingdom and the Holy Roman Empire.

Later, Prague fell under Habsburg rule which lasted some 300 years. The end of World War I brought the defeat of the Habsburgs’ Austro-Hungarian Empire.  In 1918 a proclamation led to the independence of the new Czechoslovakia and Prague became its capital.  Freedom, however, was fleeting as 20 years later Czechoslovakia was occupied by Nazi Germany, and the holocaust began.

In 1948 the Communist Party of Czechoslovakia, with Soviet backing, assumed control of the country, leading to four decades of communist dictatorship.

Historically, Prague had been made up of an even number of Czech, German and Jewish people. Only about 5 percent of the Jewish population survived the holocaust. The Germans were driven out after the end of World War II, leaving Prague almost entirely Czech.

Cemetery in the Jewish Quarter
In 1989 Czechoslovakia won its independence. This very old area was new again. Four years later the country split in two forming the Czech Republic and Slovakia. The Czech Republic joined the European Union in 2004.

Knowing a little of the history of Prague can help to understand this complicated city and its people. A visit to the Jewish Quarter’s museum, with its synagogues and cemetery, is a haunting reminder of the devastation of the holocaust. A stroll across the Charles Bridge is a reminder of Prague’s best years when King Charles IV commissioned the bridge.

Prague is made up of four areas; the Old Town, New Town, Lesser Town and The Castle. As we meandered through the narrow streets of the city, one of our favorite stops was the Old Town Square. During the holiday season, the square was particularly brilliant with lighted trees and a Christmas market. The Old Town Square was founded in the 10th century as a marketplace. Over the centuries many important political events and demonstrations took place in this square. Coronation parades would pass through as they marched toward the castle.

Inside St. Vitus Cathedral
The square was just as pretty in the daylight as it was all lit up at night. The constant throng of people made it difficult at times to maneuver from one end to the other, but it was dazzling to behold nonetheless. At the top of the hour crowds gathered around the astronomical clock to watch the twelve apostles parade by and to listen to the bells toll. The surrounding buildings were dramatic with their graceful lines and decorative facades.

Churches abound everywhere in Prague and they are all worth a peek inside. The most imposing is St. Vitus Cathedral looming high on the hill in the Castle Quarter. A hike up to the castle rewards with an incredible view that stretches across the whole city.  The buildings are still home to the government and visitors can enjoy the changing of the guard.

The Charles Bridge is a 14th century stone pedestrian-only bridge stretching across the Vltava River and linking the Old Town with the Lesser Town. Seventy-five statues adorn the bridge and a tower welcomes visitors on both sides. The bridge affords terrific views of the city, especially at sunset.

There are many museums to explore. One that is a little off the beaten path and less of a tourist attraction than other Prague sites, is the Mucha Museum.

The Municipal House
The museum is housed in a large building, but the museum is actually just one main room on the first floor with an alcove running a film about the life of Alfons Mucha. The artist’s pieces on exhibit are all good and nicely displayed.

The film is fascinating and very educational. It is definitely worth the time to view it in its entirety. Anyone that is an admirer of Mucha, or simply a fan of Art Nouveau, should visit this little gem.

Concerts can be found everywhere day and night, mostly in churches but also in the lovely Art Nouveau Municipal House. The Smetana Hall is an absolutely beautiful venue to see a professional concert, and truly should not be missed.

Prague is an exceptionally attractive city with many historic sites worth exploring. Despite its beauty, years under communist rule have left something behind. It is hard to put a finger on it as it is, indeed, an incredibly pretty city, but it somehow lacks the genteel feeling of Vienna. It is magical though, and it is no wonder the tourists have discovered it in huge numbers.

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