Unlike cities in the US, Vienna is not crammed with
soulless restaurant chains or the large, noisy, overpriced next new thing. That is not to say that you can’t find a
fast food place there but, fortunately, they are the
exception and not the rule.
From palaces and museums to music and towering cathedrals, Vienna oozes with history and culture. Its food, too, has a history and culture all its own, and includes a whole culture developed around their coffee.
The coffee house has been a
culinary staple for centuries and, although many of the old glorious cafés have closed,
the tradition of savoring a cup of coffee with friends or over a newspaper is still
very much alive and well.
The cafés are elegant … it is easy to overuse that word while writing about Vienna, but how else do you describe a grand room with marble pillars soaring up to a tall arched ceiling dressed with dangling crystal chandeliers? … elegant is the word, plain and simple.
Cafés dot the city like jewels on a crown. Each has its own individual character but the
common theme is a lovely place to stop and linger over a fine cup of coffee or
tea, a light meal or a decadent pastry. Whenever I strolled by one I would stop and stare through the window, like a
child gazing upon a candy store, yearning to join the crowd for a slice of cake and
a cup of rich coffee.
Pastries are an art in Vienna. The most famous is the Sachertorte, but there are multitudes of fine, delicious pastries available to satisfy anyone's sweet tooth.
On the opposite end of the culinary spectrum is the Viennese street food. Being there in December, the ubiquitous Christmas markets provided even more food stalls than in other times of the year. The two food items I noticed most often were the warm punches and the frankfurters being sold among the Christmas ornaments and trinkets.
My husband had
seen Anthony Bourdain enjoy a
frankfurter with melted cheese inside called a Käsekrainer. Although I don’t think I’ve ever seen him eat
anything remotely similar, he was determined to have one. One morning at the Christmas market in front of Belvedere Palace he couldn’t resist any
longer. Offering me a piece, I gazed
upon it as though he was offering a chopped up piece of snake. “I think I’ll pass.” “Just try it.” … went the conversation. I did try it, it was delicious.
It was cold while we were there. I was bundled up in so many layers I looked like the Michelin man, but to the Viennese people it was nothing. They don’t let a little cold or sleet stop
them. No, any time of the day or night people stood outside, enjoying their companions, beer, punch, food, whatever; as though it was toasty warm outside.
The largest market of all is open year round and is called the Naschmarkt. In 1898 the city covered up the Vienna River and created a lively and colorful market, which is still bustling and thriving today. Housing nearly 120 market stands and restaurants, chefs and locals buy their fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, and bread and cheese there. Beautiful displays of food and spices are laid out like artwork. Specialty items such as caviar and an assortment of international goods can also be found there. It’s a fun place for foodies to browse and stop for samples or a bite to eat.
From palaces and museums to music and towering cathedrals, Vienna oozes with history and culture. Its food, too, has a history and culture all its own, and includes a whole culture developed around their coffee.
 |
| Café Central |
The cafés are elegant … it is easy to overuse that word while writing about Vienna, but how else do you describe a grand room with marble pillars soaring up to a tall arched ceiling dressed with dangling crystal chandeliers? … elegant is the word, plain and simple.
 |
| A Bounty of Pastries |
On the opposite end of the culinary spectrum is the Viennese street food. Being there in December, the ubiquitous Christmas markets provided even more food stalls than in other times of the year. The two food items I noticed most often were the warm punches and the frankfurters being sold among the Christmas ornaments and trinkets.
 |
| Market Stalls |
The largest market of all is open year round and is called the Naschmarkt. In 1898 the city covered up the Vienna River and created a lively and colorful market, which is still bustling and thriving today. Housing nearly 120 market stands and restaurants, chefs and locals buy their fruit and vegetables, meat and fish, and bread and cheese there. Beautiful displays of food and spices are laid out like artwork. Specialty items such as caviar and an assortment of international goods can also be found there. It’s a fun place for foodies to browse and stop for samples or a bite to eat.
 |
| Naschmarkt Goodies |
The custom dates back to the year 1784 when the ruling Habsburgs released a decree allowing wine producers to sell their wine tax-free in their gardens to people happening by. Today, the vintners still maintain an old-village setting, inviting the public to drink and to dine in their cellars, gardens or vineyards and to perhaps enjoy a little music.
I have to say I was really taken with Vienna. For a large city it had almost a small town way about it. There was so much to do there, something for everyone. We were lucky to have been there in December to witness the splendid way they celebrate the holiday season. I would, however, like to return in warmer weather to explore activities we were not able to do in the cold of winter. Perhaps an opportunity will present itself in the future, maybe even this year. Until then, I salute Vienna, its customs and its people, I enjoyed every minute.
No comments:
Post a Comment