Sweet and Zesty Sticky Wings

These tasty wings, a game day favorite, are easy to make and are a nice combination of sweet and spicy. It is easy to play with the flavors depending on how you prefer your wings.

Sweet and Zesty Sticky Wings
(Serves 6.)

• 2 tablespoons Asian chili sauce (adjust amount depending on your "heat" preference)
• 1/4 cup honey
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce (use gluten-free soy sauce for a GF dish)
• 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon green onion, chopped
• 2 pounds chicken wings, tips removed and cut in 2 pieces at joint

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Sweet and Zesty Sticky Wings

Grease a large baking sheet.

Combine chili sauce, honey, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and 1/4 cup of the green onions in a small sauce pan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove from burner and let stand until cooled.

Place wings in a large bowl. Add cooled sauce and toss to thoroughly coat wings. Place sauced wings in single layer on prepared baking sheet. Bake, turning occasionally, for 25 minutes or until the chicken is evenly browned.

Increase oven temperature to broil. Broil wings for 2 minutes or until sauce caramelizes. Remove wings to platter, top with 1 tablespoon of the chopped green onions, and serve.

Fudgy Brownies ... What Could be Better?

What says homey dessert more than a decadent chocolate brownie? Rich and moist, these brownies never last long on the dessert table. Add nuts, I prefer pecans, and/or chocolate chips to make them an extra special treat.

Fudgy Brownies
(Makes 9 large brownies.)


Fudgy Brownies

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 cup sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 2 eggs, at room temperature
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3/4 cup flour, sifted
• 1/2 cup chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)
• 3/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Lightly grease an 8-inch square baking dish, preferably glass.

In a saucepan over low heat, combine the butter and unsweetened chocolate. Heat, stirring often, until melted, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and salt.


Add the eggs and vanilla and stir until well blended. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and stir until just blended. Stir in the nuts and/or chips if using.

Pour the batter into the prepared dish and spread evenly. 

Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the brownies comes out almost completely clean, about 30 minutes. Do not over bake. 

Transfer the pan to a wire rack and let cool completely.

Cut into 2 1/2-inch squares.

Homemade Naan (Indian Style Flatbread)

I talked about the many uses of Naan (Indian style flatbread) in an earlier posting and how nice it is to have a package on hand, not only as a flavorful bread heated with warm butter and herbs or Parmesan cheese, but also as a quick pizza. It is great to serve as a snack, especially when there are lots of kids around to feed or a hungry crowd watching a game.

If you enjoy making homemade bread, naan is a snap to make as there are few ingredients and the dough requires only one rise. Here is a very simple recipe, much more economical than buying those packages of two in the grocery store.

Homemade Naan
(Makes 6 small flatbreads.)

• 2 cups all purpose flour, plus more for rolling out the dough
• 3 teaspoons sugar, divided
• 1 teaspoon rapid-rise yeast
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons plain yogurt
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons melted salted butter, for brushing on finished naans

Preheat oven to 200°F.

Homemade Naan (Indian Style Flatbread)

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast and salt. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together, the yogurt, olive oil, and 3/4 cup warm water (about 100°F).

Add the yogurt mixture to the dry ingredients and mix. When the dough is almost completely mixed, dust your hands with flour and knead gently into a soft, slightly sticky dough. As soon as it comes together, stop kneading.

Transfer the dough to a large bowl that has been lightly oiled. Cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel. Let sit in a warm place for 1 to 1.5 hours, or until doubled in size.

Dust a work surface with some flour and place the dough on top. Sprinkle more flour on top of the dough and on your hands. Shape the dough into a long rectangle and cut into 6 equal portions, dusting with more flour as necessary so the dough doesn't stick.

Warm a large heavy nonstick pan over medium-high heat until very hot. Using a rolling pin, roll one of the dough balls into an oval shape about 1/8-inch thick (it should be about 9 x 4 inches). Lightly pat the dough to release any excess flour, then gently lay it in the dry skillet.

Cook a few minutes until the top is bursting with air bubbles and the bottom is golden and blackened in spots. Flip the naan and cook about 1 to 2 minutes more until the bottom is again lightly browned and blistered in spots. Remove the naan from the skillet and brush with melted butter. (To keep the them warm, place them in the preheated oven.)

Repeat with the remaining naans, adjusting the heat lower if necessary as you go. Serve warm.

Store the leftover naans in a sealed plastic bag. To reheat, wrap each naan in aluminum foil and warm in a 350°F oven until hot.

Salt Cod and Potato Croquettes

Croquettes can be made from all kinds of ingredients including cod, ham, chicken and shrimp. They are delicious and are a popular tapas in Spain where we have often enjoyed them. We were happy to discover the same kinds of treats in Portugal. 

The Portuguese people love their Bacalhau, Salted Cod. It is ever present and it is said they can prepare it 365 ways. This recipe is similar to a croquette we had in Lisbon. 

Salt Cod and Potato Croquettes
(Makes 12 servings.)

• 1 pound Idaho potatoes, scrubbed well
• Kosher salt
• 1 pound salted cod, previously soaked in water for at least 24 hours in refrigerator (rinse and change water at least 3 times) 
• 3 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves, chopped
• 2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 large eggs, beaten separately
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• Vegetable oil, for cooking
• Sea salt flakes, for serving

Salt Cod and Potato Croquettes

Put the potatoes in a saucepan big enough to fit them in one layer. Add enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches and dissolve a tablespoon of kosher salt in the liquid. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to a simmer until potatoes are cooked through, about an hour. With a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a bowl and let cool, reserving the cooking liquid.

While the potatoes cool, slip the cod into the reserved liquid and adjust the heat so that the water’s hot but not simmering. Poach the cod until it is opaque and flakes easily, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the cod to a bowl lined with a clean kitchen towel. Gently mash into small flakes. Wrap the towel around the cod and squeeze out and discard the liquid. The cod should be as dry as possible so repeat until no liquid remains.

Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks, and pass through the fine setting on a food mill or a potato ricer into a large bowl. Fold in the dried cod until well combined, then fold in the parsley, olive oil, and lemon juice. Fold in 1 egg. You don’t want the mixture too moist; it should be firm enough to shape into quenelles (little football shapes). Fold in the remaining egg, a little at a time, until you get a creamy, not soupy, consistency. Season to taste with a little kosher salt and the pepper.

Fill a small saucepan with the oil to a depth of 2 inches. Bring the temperature to 335°F over medium-high heat. Use two soup spoons to form the cod mixture into quenelles and carefully lower them into the oil. Don’t crowd the pan; cook a few at a time. Cook, adjusting the heat to maintain the temperature, turning the quenelles until golden on both sides and hot throughout, about 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining mixture.

Sprinkle with sea salt flakes, or table salt, and serve with lemon wedges.

Portugal ... Tips for Planning and Traveling

Here are a few tips for planning a trip and traveling around Portugal.

First thing, the best time to go. The summers are quite hot and very crowded. If you have the option, plan to travel off season, with spring and fall offering the nicest weather, smaller crowds and still plenty of sunshine.

Portugal is part of the European Union and uses the Euro (€) as its currency. It is one of the Schengen Area countries, an area comprising of 26 European states that have abolished passport and border controls at their mutual borders.

Lisbon

English is widely spoken in the larger cities and tourist towns. It is always a good idea, and is polite, to learn some basic words and phrases before setting out to any non-English speaking country. At least learn the courtesy words of hello (bom-dia, pronounced boñ dee-uh), goodbye (adeus, pronounced a-deh-oosh), please (por favor, pronounced poor fuh-vor), thank you (obrigado, pronounced o-bree-gah-doo – if you are a man and obrigada, pronounced o-bree-gah-duh – if you are a woman), yes (sim, pronounced seen) and no (nao, pronounced nown). Do not speak Spanish, Portuguese is not the same.

It is a good idea to make reservations for dinner, especially if you do not want to be disappointed by being turned away at a restaurant you particularly wanted to try. The most popular restaurants can be booked as much as months in advance (such as the the ones with famous Michelin star chefs), so for those, book early. 

As mentioned in my Lisbon post, be aware that in Portugal when bread and unordered appetizers appear on the table, they are not free. You will be charged if you eat any of it. Simply wave it away with a no thank you if you do not want it, but most of the morsels are good, reasonably priced, and worth enjoying if they look good to you.

Cascais

Credit cards are widely accepted in the larger cities and tourist towns. Better to have some cash if wandering into less populated areas. As in all train, metro and other transportation stations within Europe, you must have a true "chip and PIN" card when using machines to purchase tickets. A chip only card will not work.

We usually rely on public transportation when we travel around Europe, but if you are planning to drive, Portugal has a good highway system. It also has a high rate of accidents so pay attention. Pick up an International Driver’s License from AAA, you will need it if pulled over by police. Always reserve your car before you leave home for the best rates, and make sure you have good insurance. If you are staying for an extended period of time, three weeks or more, look into leasing a car.

Portuguese-Style Mussels

My husband has always enjoyed mussels but it took me a long time to warm up to them. Surprisingly, the Boston-area grandkids have always loved them! They can devour a bowl in the blink of an eye, it's amazing to me as it isn't a dish I would think children would be so crazy about.

The first time I had them they were chewy and got caught in my teeth ... not a very pleasant experience. Since then, I have often made them at home ... they've been much better than my original tasting, and I have come to like and enjoy them.

I experiment with them now ... adding them to pasta, making a bowl for dinner with a side of crusty bread, crostini or flatbread or serving them as an appetizer. I've made them many different ways, but this recipe has become one of my top two favorites. It is based on a dish we had in Portugal.

The red pepper flakes and spicy sausage give the mussels a bit of a kick that can be increased by adding more pepper flakes or by using a hotter sausage. Conversely, cutting back on the pepper flakes and using a sweet sausage can soften the dish.

Portuguese-Style Mussels
(Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer.)

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1/2 pound chourico or chorizo sausage, chopped
• 1 sweet or red onion, diced
• 3 tablespoons garlic, minced
• 1 pinch saffron
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup clam broth (or substitute vegetable broth or chicken broth)
• 2 pounds mussels, cleaned and beard removed (discard any mussels that do not close)
• 1 14-ounce can of diced tomatoes, drained (or use a pint of fresh cherry tomatoes, halved)
• 2 tablespoons chopped chives
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves
• 1 lemon, juiced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• Crusty bread, for serving

Portuguese-Style Mussels

In a large soup pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the red pepper flakes and sausage. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes to release the flavors.

Stir in the onions and cook until they caramelize, about an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and saffron and allow the saffron to bloom. Stir in the wine and broth and mix well. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Add the mussels and stir.

Cover the pot and steam until the mussels open, about 5 minutes or so. Remove the lid, then add the tomatoes, herbs, lemon juice and salt and pepper, stir well.

Discard any unopened mussels. Ladle the mussels and broth into large serving bowls and serve with crusty bread.

Portuguese Food Glossary

Since I wrote earlier about our trip to Portugal, I thought I would post a Portuguese food glossary. It is helpful to know some terms before heading to a restaurant in whatever country you are in. Also, always learn a few language basics, a little effort can go a long way. (To view the entire glossary, click on "read more.")

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

Abacate - avocado.

Abóbora - pumpkin.

Açucar - sugar.

Adegas - wineries or wine cellars.

Agua - water.

Aguardente - clear brandy; lit. "firewater".

Alcachofra - artichoke.

Alface - lettuce.

Alheira - a type of Portuguese sausage, made with meats other than pork (often chicken, duck, rabbit).

Alho - garlic.

Alho francês - leek.

Almondegas - meatballs.

Amêijoas - clams with butter and parsley.

Crab and Corn Chowder

It is freezing outside today and the wind is gusting over 40 miles per hour. The current temperature is 19°F with a wind chill of 3. This is unusually cold for our area and it is miserable being outside. So once back home and in from the cold, my thoughts are turning to a nice warm soup.

So comforting and with so many good flavors and textures, this chowder is perhaps my favorite hearty soup. It is creamy with soft potatoes, yet has a mild crunch from the corn and celery. And what can I say about jumbo lump crab other than it brings a fresh taste of the sea to any dish. (Of course if you don't have crab, throw in some shrimp, scallops or a mix of seafood instead ... it's all good.)

This soup is a meal in itself, especially with the addition of some crusty bread, crostini, or flatbread.

Crab and Corn Chowder
(Makes 6 servings.)

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 2 ribs celery, diced
• 1 medium sweet onion, diced
• 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and diced
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 tablespoon Old Bay seasoning
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour (or use a gluten-free flour mix for a GF soup)
• 2 cups chicken stock or broth
• 1 quart whole milk
• 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and diced
• 3 cups frozen corn kernels, thawed
• 8 ounces fresh jumbo lump crab meat, picked through for shells
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
• 2 tablespoons sherry (optional)
Oyster crackers (optional)

Crab and Corn Chowder

Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the diced celery, onion and red bell pepper. Sauté until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes.

Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Add the Old Bay seasoning and stir to incorporate. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Stir in broth and milk. Add the diced potatoes and bring soup up to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are cooked, 10 to 15 minutes.

Add corn and bring the soup back to a simmer. Add crab meat, parsley and sherry (if using) and heat through. Adjust the seasonings to taste. Ladle soup into bowls and top with oyster crackers, if desired.

Many Uses of Naan (Indian Flatbread)

Naan, Indian style flatbread, is a great staple to have in your pantry. It can be found in pretty much any grocery store, but it is also pretty easy to make your own Naan.

Brush the naan with some melted butter and sprinkle with your favorite herbs before heating for a tasty side to accompany a bowl of soup, salad, or mussels.

Top the naan with your favorite pizza toppings, and you have a quick lunch or snack. Here are a couple of my favorite pizza ideas that can be made in a matter of minutes with just a few, simple ingredients.

Quick Flatbread Margherita Pizza

Quick Margherita Flatbread

• Flatbread(s) (depending on number of servings)
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Pizza sauce (recipe below or use your favorite pizza sauce)
• Parmesan cheese, grated
• Fresh mozzarella cheese, shredded

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Place flatbread(s) on a baking sheet and brush with a little extra virgin olive oil. 

Warm in the preheated oven about 5 minutes or so. Remove from oven and spread some pizza sauce on top of each naan. Sprinkle with a little Parmesan cheese and top with shredded or small pieces of fresh mozzarella. 

Return to oven and bake until cheeses have melted and flatbread is warm and slightly toasted. Slice into wedges with a pizza cutter and serve.

Quick Pizza Sauce
• 1 14 1/2 ounce can of drained diced tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Place drained diced tomatoes in a food processor and process until thick sauce consistency. With motor on, add 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a stream and process until blended. Add a little salt and pepper to taste.

Quick Mushroom Flatbread

Quick Mushroom Flatbread

• Flatbread(s) (depending on number of servings)
• Extra virgin olive oil
• 1 cup sliced mushrooms
• 1/2 cup diced onions
• 1 teaspoon chopped basil
• 1 teaspoon chopped oregano
• Parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Place about a tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauté pan. Over medium heat, sauté the mushrooms and onions until the onions are translucent. Remove from heat and add the herbs, stirring to combine.

Place flatbread(s) on a baking sheet. Brush with a little extra virgin olive oil. Warm in oven about 5 minutes to heat through. 

Remove from oven and sprinkle the mushroom mixture over the naans. Top with Parmesan cheese. Bake until cheese has melted and flatbread is warm and slightly toasted. Slice into wedges with a pizza cutter and serve.

Easy Beef Chili

Chili seems to be the perennial favorite at football parties, so with the conference championships this Sunday and the Super Bowl not far behind, thought I would share a recipe for beef chili. (Visit my posting Football Party Foods for more ideas.)

Whether you are having a crowd, just the family, or simply want to enjoy a casual evening on a cold winter's night, nothing sticks to your ribs more than a warm bowl of chili.

This is such an easy recipe, takes no time at all and it is loaded with lots of spicy tomato flavor.

Don't like beef? No problem, use ground chicken or turkey instead. Like it hotter? Add more cayenne pepper. Want more veggies? Brown some chopped bell peppers along with the onions.

Easy Beef Chili
(Serves 6 to 8.)

• 2 pounds ground beef (or ground chicken or turkey)
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
• 8 ounces of water
• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
• 2 tablespoons chili powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground oregano
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 15-ounce can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
• Shredded cheddar, for serving (optional)
• Chopped onions, for serving (optional)
• Sour cream, for serving (optional)
• Corn bread, as an accompaniment (optional)

Easy Beef Chili

Place the ground beef in a large pot over medium heat. Break up the beef with a fork. Add the chopped onion and brown until the beef is no longer pink.

Drain off the excess fat. Add the tomato sauce, the water, the can of chopped tomatoes and the spices. Mix well.

Cover, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the beans and simmer for 10 more minutes.

Adjust seasonings to taste. Serve in bowls and put out shredded cheddar cheese, chopped onions and sour cream for toppings. Serve with corn bread.

Exploring Portugal, Porto

Entry Hall of the São Bento Train Station 

Like Coimbra, we first arrived by train to an outer station, Campanha, and needed to switch to another train taking us to the São Bento Station in town. If you travel no further than here, you’ve still seen one of Porto’s most impressive sites, the walls of São Bento. The entry hall is filled with beautiful hand-painted blue tiles (azulejos) depicting historical and folk vignettes from the local Douro valley.

King Pedro IV and City Hall

We began our brief visit by doing a self-guided tour of the town starting at the bottom of Avenida do Aliados at Praça da Liberdade. A statue of King Pedro IV on horseback greeted us along with a dramatic backdrop of the beautiful city hall. Travel guru, Rick Steves, said it is reminiscent of Wenceslaus Square in Prague and I felt the same when I saw it.

Imperial McDonald's Exterior

The striking buildings along the street are a mix of styles but mostly Art Deco and Art Nouveau.

One building stands out because of its occupant, McDonald’s. Usually I hate to see American fast food joints and low-end restaurant chains in the cities of Europe, but this one has an interesting history. Previously housing the Imperial Café, which was an icon in the 1930s, the Art Deco building was set for demolition. McDonald’s came to the rescue by renovating the building and turning it into perhaps the most elegant fast food place in the world, saving the lovely stained glass, chandeliers and façade… can’t feel too bad about that.

Carmo Church

We walked down Rua da Fábrica, with its mélange of funky stores, to a square housing the popular Padaria Ribeiro pastry shop … perfect as we were in need of coffee and a little pick-me-up. We then found ourselves at another tiled wonder, the side of the Carmo Church. But the building’s tiles weren’t the only wonder. Walking to the front we saw there are actually two Rococo churches joined by a very narrow structure. On the left is the Carmelite church, once inhabited by nuns, and to the right is the Carmo church where the monks lived. Who knows what went on in the narrow building in between. ;-)

Continuing downhill we came upon yet another blue tiled church, Santo Ildefonso, and further down a bookstore turned tourist attraction. It is unusual to see a long line outside a bookstore, but this 1906 shop is different.

Lello and Irmão Bookstore

Meticulously refurbished in 2017, the Lello and Irmão Bookstore has a beautiful Art Nouveau interior. J. K. Rowling worked in Porto for a year and it is believed that this Potter-like shop inspired her. Between the striking interior, including a dramatic spiral staircase, and the Harry Potter connection, the store became overrun with tourists. 

The mass of people dropping by to take a peek, rather than buying books, was taking a toll on the small shop. Their solution was to charge an entrance fee to discourage the lookie-loos. The fee (currently 5€ which may be applied toward any purchase) hasn’t seemed to dissuade anyone.

Clérigos Bell Tower

Across from the store is a most interesting and innovative park, the Praça de Lisboa. The park sits atop a parking garage, so instead of seeing an ugly concrete structure in the middle of the historic town, locals rest and play in an enjoyable park bursting with people, olive trees, benches, tables and a trendy bar. This is an example of great urban planning.

From the park looms the bell tower of the Baroque Clérigos Church. The church welcomes visitors but, like most churches, charges a fee to access its bell tower.

Palácio da Bolsa

Back in the lower portion of Porto, at the Praça do Infante Dom Henrique, sits the grand Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace). The Neoclassical palace was built in the 19th century by the city's Commercial Association and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The interior can be visited by purchasing tickets for a guided tour.

Ribeira

At the bottom of the hill stretches the fun, disorganized and scenic riverfront Ribeira district. Formerly a working port, the colorful area is now a hodgepodge of narrow houses, restaurants and tourist shops. It is a pleasurable place to roam or to join the throngs of people indulging in a drink or bite to eat.

Across the wrought-iron Ponte Dom Luís I bridge lies the town of Vila Nova de Gaia. This is where the famous port houses store and age Portugal’s most popular and well-known beverage. There are numerous port lodges dotting the hills open to the public for tours and port tastings.

Rabelos

Once on the Gaia side we stopped for a late lunch at the Dourum Restaurante. Sitting just inside the door, we enjoyed a view of the the bridge, the river, and the barrel-carrying boats (rabelos) bobbing up and down. We shared small dishes including canned sardines and tuna, along with some local wine. The service was friendly, the atmosphere pleasant, and prices were very reasonable.

Well fed and happy, we had time to visit one port lodge. We chose Taylor for its location and reputation.

Taylor's Port Tasting Room

Located high on the hill, the pretty grounds include nice views across the river to Porto. Short on time we passed on a tour and instead settled in the tasting room to indulge in a glass of fine aged port. We liked the surroundings but found the staff to be a little stuffy, slightly bordering on arrogant.

With our day in Porto coming to an end, we sadly headed to the São Bento Station to begin our journey back to Lisbon.

Porto completely charmed us. I had wanted to visit for a long time and, although we only had enough time to scratch the surface, it exceeded all expectations. 

We enjoyed our entire visit to Portugal and all we managed to pack into a very few days. In fact, we have booked another trip for this spring so we can slow down and further explore all this historical, beautiful, friendly and charming country has to offer.

Exploring Portugal, Coimbra

It was a little ambitious, with the few days we had in Lisbon, to travel as far as Coimbra and Porto … but wanting to see as much of the country as possible, we did it.

Arco de Almedina

Our first day trip to the north was to the college town of Coimbra. We arrived by train at Station B on the outskirts of town. From there it is necessary to take a shuttle train to the more central Station A, just a few minutes walk to the lower city center.

Beginning at the Largo da Portagem square, a short stroll takes you down Rua de Ferreira Borges, the the main pedestrian street lined with shops and cafés. Along the way and to the right, steps lead through the ancient Arco de Almedina, part of the old town wall, to the upper town, cathedral and university.

Reminiscent of Lisbon’s cathedral, the old Coimbra cathedral is worth a look inside. The serene, pretty cloister, the oldest Gothic cloister in Portugal, is also worth a visit.

Coimbra University's Library

Coimbra is home to Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious university, and the university is the main attraction in town. The grounds are open to the public and provide a nice view over the town, but tickets are needed to tour the buildings. We did not have time for a tour but would have liked to have been able to see the Baroque library, which is supposed to be quite grand inside.

Further along, past the university, is the botanical garden. Established in 1772 on land previously owned by Benedictine monks, the garden was originally used to grow and provide medicinal plants for medical studies at the university.

San Sebastian Aqueduct

Adjacent to the garden stands the San Sebastian Aqueduct, built over what was once a Roman aqueduct. The superb structure is an unexpected site as it seems to roar down the road as if it owned the place. You can just imagine it transporting all important water to town back in the day.

Nearby is a nice view looking down toward the graceful Santa Clara Bridge as it spans the Mondego River.

View Santa Clara Bridge and the Mondego River

Speaking of the river, along its bank, near the town center, sits the Dr. Manuel Braga park. The park sprawls from the Santa Clara Bridge to the Pedro and Inês pedestrian bridge. It is a pleasant place to roam and perhaps stop for a bite to eat or a cool drink. River cruises are available April to September. They weren’t running while we were there in October, but it would be a nice way to spend a lazy, pleasurable hour.

Coimbra is a nice historical town in Portugal’s heartland. It is an agreeable place to visit, but I can’t say it was a favorite of ours. It was very quiet, especially considering we were there on a Friday. Many of the nicer restaurants were either empty or closed at lunch time. Perhaps we missed something, but we just didn’t find it near as enjoyable as the other places we visited on this trip.

Exploring Portugal, Cascais and Sintra

Over the next couple of days we spent our time exploring towns and sites further afield of downtown Lisbon, yet easily accessible by car or train.

Charming Cascais

Further west of Lisbon, along the coast, sits the delightful Portuguese fishing town of Cascais. A nice diversion from the busy city and easy to get to, a visit to this town is a joy and became one of my favorite places in Portugal.

Once again we boarded the same coastal train, leaving from the Cais do Sodré train station, that took us to Belém. This time we stayed on the train until we reached the last stop.

Cascais is one of Lisbon’s most popular holiday destinations. The town is situated right on Portugal's beautiful coastline and during the summer it is a bustling resort. Off season it is a lovely place to while away the day.

Marechal Carmona Park

Historically Cascais was a minor fishing village, until King Luís I choose it as his royal summer retreat. Portuguese high society followed the king’s example and built their own lavish villas and exquisite gardens. Today, Cascais is a fusion of decorative 19th-century architecture, traditional Portuguese charm and enjoyable tourist attractions.

Delightful Park Sculpture

The shop-lined streets are pleasant to browse and the Marechal Carmona Park is a dreamy oasis where chickens and roosters strut their stuff right along with you. We spent a long time roaming the park and enjoying its ponds, fountains and whimsical sculptures.

Museo do Mar (Museum of the Sea)

Across from the park sits a small maritime museum called the Museo do Mar (Museum of the Sea). We were surprised by how much we enjoyed this little museum. It shows the history of the town through its relationship to the sea. Filled with many interesting artifacts and beautiful model boats, I think anyone, both young and old, would enjoy a stop here. (The museum is open every day from 10:00am to 6:00pm. The cost is extremely reasonable, 3 Euros, half price for students and those over 65, free for kids under age 12.)

Cascais Beach & Path

Cascais doesn’t lack for good places to dine. We enjoyed a very nice lunch near the water at Hifen, a restaurant serving a wide variety of tasty tapas-like dishes. Seated at a large communal table, it was interesting to see what the locals were having for their lunch. We choose to share three small plates including two tempura dishes, all very good.

But the jewel of the town is its beach and accompanying coastal path that seems to go on forever. We enjoyed walking from Cascais to the town of Estoral where we caught the train back to Lisbon. Other than a casino, there isn’t much to do in Estoril, but it is definitely worth the beautiful walk.

I loved this town so much I returned a second time by myself while my husband attended his conference.

Pena Palace

Another easy day trip is to the town of Sintra. It is easy to get to by way of train from the Rossio Train Station. Visiting Sintra is like visiting Disneyland, just as fanciful and just as crowded.

There are a number of sites to enjoy while in town. When we visited, we concentrated on the Pena Palace. Built in the 19th century by German-born Prince Ferdinand, the palace is a jumble of many styles and colors. It is a fairytale kind of place, not in the same caliber as other well-known castles of Europe.

Palace Kitchen

The playful palace is more impressive on the outside than inside, although there are some pretty features in the rooms including some nice decorative ceilings, chandeliers and fireplaces. As someone who likes to cook, my favorite part of the interior was the massive kitchen. 

The surrounding park is beautiful as are the views. We didn't try, but it is possible to hike to the Moorish castle ruins or down to town through the woods.

View of Moorish Castle Ruins from the Pena Palace

For me, the crowds and hassle of getting up there and getting inside somewhat overshadowed the enjoyment. Standing in long lines shuffling from room to room is not my idea of a good time. We took an Uber there and back which saved us from waiting for the over packed buses.

Be prepared to stay longer than should be necessary because of the vast number of people. We went during the week toward the end of October and still hit big crowds, so it would be advisable to avoid weekends and high season.

Sintra

Lined with shops and restaurants, the town itself is hilly and attractive, but it is also very crowded, touristy and is a difficult place to drive. 

For a tasty treat, drop in one of the two Piriquita pastry shops. Founded in 1862, the original shop baked pastries for Lisbon’s royalty. They now serve up delicious travesseiros (pillows with almond cream) and queijadas (mini sweet fresh cheese pies wrapped in a crispy crust) and all kinds of other goodies to us lucky commoners.

There was a lot more to see, but we decided to save it for another trip. We enjoyed a late relaxing lunch, roamed the town's busy streets, and headed back to plan the next day's trip to Coimbra.