Exploring Portugal, Lisbon

We had been to Lisbon a number of years ago, just for a weekend, and had wanted to return ever since. The opportunity arose this past October in the form of a business conference that my husband was invited to. Of course I had to accompany him to make sure he arrived safe and sound. It was a great sacrifice to make, but it was the proper thing to do. I wouldn’t have wanted him to get lost along the way or, even worse, kidnapped!!!

Tiled Streets of Lisbon

Portugal has taken off as a tourist destination over the past few years, and we certainly saw quite a difference in Lisbon since we were last there. The good is that the city is a bustling hive of activity… more people on the streets, lots of restoration and building, more and better restaurants (including ones with famous Michelin star chefs), a bigger variety of spruced up places to stay, and a friendly, welcoming spirit.

The bad is that perhaps there are too many people on the streets. Like many popular European destinations, it is becoming overloaded with tourists, driving vacation costs up much higher (not to mention the higher costs of living for its residents). Particularly noticeable were the hotel room prices, once a bargain, they now equal that of most other European cities.

Any bad is truly minuscule in comparison to all that this beautiful city and this country have to offer. There is so much to experience in Lisbon and its suburb, Belém, alone. Then there are all the many other Portuguese towns, big and small, begging to be explored as well as beaches, mountains and vineyards.

From our base in Lisbon we managed to pack in quite a bit within the short time we had before heading to the countryside for the conference.

Alfama Neighborhood

Upon our afternoon arrival we quickly checked in to our bed and breakfast in the Chiado section of town. We then set off to see what we remembered from our previous trip. Except for the amazing tiled streets, it looked different, much busier, larger and brighter.

We headed up through the old Alfama neighborhood toward the castle with a stop in the Lisbon Cathedral. Officially referred to as Santa Maria Maior de Lisboa, it is the oldest place of worship in Lisbon.

The fortress-like facade of the cathedral dates back to the mid-12th century when the construction was commissioned by the first king of Portugal, Afonso Henriques, on the site of a former mosque. As European cathedrals go, this is not a particularly exceptional one, but it is well worth stopping by to pay homage to a structure that survived the devastating earthquake, tsunami, and fire of 1755.

View from the Miradouro Graca

St. George Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge) was free to visit when we were last there. They now charge a rather high admittance fee considering that the castle is just a shell. What you are paying for is a stroll around the small park and the city view.

There are many other miradouros (lookout points) in Lisbon with just as good a view, even better, and they are free. These miradouros can be found all over the city and are enjoyed by both tourists and locals. They often have pleasant terraces to lounge about or enjoy a sunset, and many are accompanied by a small, inviting café to relax and sip a glass of wine or a cup of coffee while enjoying the view.

View from the Miradouro das Portas do Sol

We passed the busy castle by, with its long line to buy entrance tickets, in favor of walking a little farther to Miradouro Graca. The Graca was recommended by our B&B host. He said it was his favorite miradouro because of its expansive city views, including a nice view of the castle and the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge.

On the way back down the hill, we weaved in and out of the narrow streets of the Alfama. It’s fun to get lost in the maze of old tangled roads and alleyways. We then stopped by another lookout point; the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. We wandered up to a small terrace above the square and enjoyed a little snack, a glass of wine, and a wonderful view.

Praça do Comércio

Passing through the Baixa neighborhood we headed to the riverfront square of Praça do Comércio (aka the Palace Square or Commerce Square). Once the gateway to Lisbon, this was the site of Portugal’s royal palace for 200 years. After the 1755 earthquake, the palace was moved to more stable ground in the suburb of Belém. The buildings surrounding the square today house the government ministries. The statue in the square is of King José I mounted on his horse and looking toward the port. The large arch is Lisbon’s Arch of Triumph.

We continued walking parallel to the river, toward our Chiado home base, to the Mercado da Ribeira or Time Out Market. This market is half old-time produce market and half trendy food stalls and restaurants. With its lively atmosphere and large communal tables, it is a fun place to explore, pick up some food related gifts, or grab a bite to eat.

Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market)

By now we had been up for some 36 hours, having begun our travels from the US the day before. We were tired and headed back to our room for a rest on our terrace before heading out to dinner. It was my husband’s birthday and we were going out for a nice Portuguese dinner up the street toward the Bairro Alto neighborhood.

Once settled into the cozy Versículo do Faia restaurant, we enjoyed some bread and spreads with glasses of local wine. (Be aware that when bread or not ordered appetizers are put on the table, they are not free. You will be charged if you eat any of it. Simply wave it away with a no thank you if you do not want it, but most of the morsels are good, reasonably priced, and worth enjoying. This goes for dining anywhere within Portugal.)

Polvo at the Versículo do Faia Restaurant

We then ordered some Portuguese staples, bacalhau or salted cod fish for my husband and polvo or octopus for me. You will see these two items on almost any menu in Portugal, especially the bacalhau.

The Portuguese love their bacalhau. It is said that they can prepare it 365 ways. This restaurant offered a choice of three different preparations.

I love octopus when done well and had it often during our stay, as it is something not readily available in the states. Everything was delicious and it was a perfect way to end a very long two days of travel and touring.

The next day we set out for the suburb of Belém.