Exploring Portugal, North of Downtown Lisbon and the Baixa

North of the city center, and a short underground ride away, is one of the best private collection museums anywhere, the Gulbenkian Museum. 

Gulbenkian Museum

The museum houses a wonderful collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, Asian, and European art. The works were amassed over a period of 40 years by oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, who was one of the 20th century's wealthiest men. Upon his death in 1955, Gulbenkian donated his treasured collection to his adopted country of Portugal.

We had been to this museum on our first visit to Lisbon and enjoyed it so much we wanted to return.

Included among the many museum highlights is a mesmerizing gold Egyptian mummy mask, a beautiful 2700-year-old alabaster bowl, a collection of Hellenic coins, rare pieces of Chinese porcelain, Japanese prints, 16th- and 17th-century Persian tapestries and a collection of works by René Lalique, which Gulbenkian purchased directly from the artist.

Museum Gardens

The European section houses paintings by Rembrandt, Peter Paul Rubens, Claude Monet, Van Dyck, Ghirlandaio, Rogier Van der Weyden, and Pierre-Ausguste Renoir as well as French furniture and textiles. There is also a marble statue of Diana by French sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon, and silver once used by Catherine the Great and made by François-Thomas Germain.

A stroll through the museum’s shady garden takes you to a separate building containing the modern and contemporary art collection. Displayed throughout two floors, the collection includes works by Paula Rego, Almada Negreiros, Souza Cardoso, and Vieira da Silva. Not being a huge modern art devotee, I prefer the main collection. For lovers of any kind of museum ... ancient to modern … the Gulbenkian should sit atop a list of sites to visit while in Lisbon.

Rossio Train Station

Back downtown we strolled around the Baixa neighborhood. The Baixa was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake-tsunami-fire. It was rebuilt on a grid street plan, uniform and utilitarian, by military engineers. The supposedly quake-proof buildings are standardized in their height and facades, but the rigidness of design does not distract from the neighborhood’s charms.

The two oldest squares in Baixa are Rossio and Comércio (mentioned in an earlier post). The Rossio train station, once the central station of Lisbon, has a very pretty facade. If day tripping to Sintra, you would take the train from here. 

Lounge of the Elegant Avenida Palace Hotel

Next door stands Lisbon’s oldest hotel, the Avenida Palace. Like many old, grand hotels, it was built to serve the train traveling public. Stop by for an early evening cocktail in the elegant lounge and perhaps you can enjoy a piano concert. We stayed here our last night before flying home. The rooms and common areas are simply lovely and their sumptuous breakfast buffet comes complete with crystal chandeliers, china, silver and impeccable service.

The Elevador de Santa Justa

The Elevador de Santa Justa is just down the road. Built by Raoul Mesnier de Ponsard, who was an admirer of Gustave Eiffel, the elevator exhibits the same style as the Eiffel Tower. It stands 147-feet high and has a stunning observation deck with views over the Baixa neighborhood. From day one it has been one of the most popular attractions and viewpoints in Lisbon.

Ginja

We stopped by a Ginjinha, or simply Ginja, shop to sample the famous cordial. Ginja is a Portuguese liqueur made by infusing ginja sour cherry berries in alcohol and adding sugar, cinnamon and other flavors. The tasty ginja is served in a shot glass with or without cherries. 

It is fun to join the locals popping in the small shops for their daily ginja nips.

Walking along the pedestrian streets and squares, admiring the Rossio Train Station’s facade, enjoying the river view through the Comércio’s arch, poking around shops with elegant storefronts, stopping by an inviting café, and enjoying all the delights the Baixa has to offer, is a joy.

The next day we were heading a little further afield, to the west of the city.