Travels in France, Normandy Region

I’ve been to France just under a dozen times, the first being as a student on a foreign study program the summer between my junior and senior years of high school. I can’t say that, as teenagers those many years ago, our little group felt particularly welcomed, we did not. But with each passing year, the French have become more tolerant and receptive to well-behaved American tourists, and they particularly like the money we have to spend.

Bayeux

These days I feel very much at home in France and rarely come across anyone with an attitude; but I do my best to blend in, be polite, and speak the language. Although I don’t speak any foreign language well, French is my best, making the experience easier and more rewarding.

France is the largest country in Western Europe by area, but good roads, lots of airports, and fast trains make the distance from one town to another quite manageable. That is unless the country has a labor strike going on, which it often does. Then traveling can quickly become a nightmare. We encountered such a nightmare on our last visit this past spring, but that is a story for another day.

Thinking of my last couple of postings and Julia Child’s first French meal in Rouen, I began recalling our visit to the Normandy region. I’ve enjoyed all the many regions of France we've been, but Normandy may be one of my favorites. It is home to beautiful countryside, amazing food and quaint towns, large and small. It is an easy distance from Paris as well.

We started our visit in the town of Bayeux. Bayeux is a perfect French town; it is simply delightful with its parks, grand cathedral, charming streets and an abundance of history.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux

We stayed at the bed and breakfast, Le Petit Matin, and found it to be ideal for our needs. It is located across from a park and within easy walking distance to the train station and downtown. We had a bright room with a large, updated bath. The owners, who live on the premises, were kind and helpful. A nice breakfast was prepared each morning that included a delicious selection of home-made baked goods.

Most people staying in Bayeux are there to visit the Normandy beaches and memorials, which are very close by. We had a short time there and decided to save the beaches for a future trip. One site we wanted to make sure to see was the unique artifact, the Bayeux tapestry. So first thing we headed off to the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.

Pictures do not do this magnificent piece of art justice. Made in the 11th century, the tapestry is amazingly long (70 meters long and 50 centimeters high). It tells the tale of the October 14, 1066 conquest of England led by William the Conqueror, the Duke of Normandy. Headphones provide an excellent narration while traveling from one panel to the next. The tapestry is well worth seeing, there is nothing else like it.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux looms high above the town. This is a very pretty church with a long, impressive nave. It is not particularly ornate, but there is some nice stained glass, including some rare 13th century pieces above the altar. The church is worth a visit during the day and also at night to see the beautifully lit exterior.

Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel

For years I had wanted to see the Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel but never found myself nearby until this trip. We took a shuttle from Bayeux and arrived in heavy fog, so we could not see much upon our approach.

We skipped the shops in the little town and headed up the long stairs to the abbey. We enjoyed walking among the magnificent rooms of the more than 1200 year old monastery, and looking out over the water from above, as the fog began to lift. The history of the mount is fascinating and worth studying a bit prior to visiting.

The Garden Cloister was under construction when we were there, so we did not have the opportunity to see that. We did have time to grab a bite to eat in one of the upper restaurants. We sat outside and had a nice sea view.

The fog lifted by the time we left, so we were able to take in a terrific view of the Abbey from a distance. The distant view is the most dramatic aspect of the mount as it appears to grow from the sea in the middle of nowhere.

Honfleur

On another day we very much enjoyed the charming port town of Honfleur. As a fan of the impressionist painters, particularly Boudin, I had been curious to see this picturesque port. The whole town, especially the old port, is like walking through a picture postcard.

Down by the harbor the menagerie of boats; the carousel; the colorful tall, skinny buildings; the cafés that line the walk … all combine to create a perfectly composed picture. We loved walking about and stopping by one of the outdoor cafés for lunch.

The Boudin Museum is a nice stop for those who appreciate the work of Boudin and his contemporaries. Another good site is St. Catherine Church. Built from wood, the unusual  church has the feeling of an upside-down boat, perhaps reflecting its seafaring heritage.

For a getaway from the crowds and a chance to stretch legs, a hike up the Côte de Grâce to the Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel is enjoyable and rewarding. The chapel is one of the oldest sanctuaries in the region. It was completed in 1615, replacing a former chapel that was destroyed by a landslide.

View from La Côte de Grâce

La Côte de Grâce offers magnificent panoramic views. On one side are the mouth of the River Seine and the port of Le Havre. On the other is a stunning view over Honfleur and the Seine Valley.

The town is an absolute gem and a joy to visit. It is a must for any trip to Normandy.

The city of Rouen was our last Normandy stop before heading to our final destination of Paris. We arrived on a Sunday, which is normally a dead day in France with most everything closed. (Unfortunately, it is impossible to travel without encountering a few Sundays along the way.) However, on this Sunday, Rouen was alive and in the midst of a huge food festival. Yes!

Rouen

Walking from the train station we weaved in and out to avoid crashing into food stalls, packed outdoor cafés, crowds and musicians until we reached the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection. This was one of the nicest hotels we’ve ever stayed. We were upgraded to a large junior suite with a modern and beautiful bath. I could have moved in and truly didn't want to leave; it was such a nice, comfortable sanctuary.

As mentioned, Rouen was the city where Julia Child was introduced to French cuisine by her husband Paul. Julia wrote often about the Sole Meunière she had at Restaurant La Couronne. The restaurant is still in existence and, of course, offers a Julia menu.

For those familiar with Monet’s many cathedral paintings, it is Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral that he painted again and again, I believe some 30 times, in different light. There has been a church on the site for over a thousand years. The current Gothic building was finished in the 14th century and has been constantly restored over the years, particularly after the devastation from World War II.

Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral

Within a kind of museum quarter, Rouen shows off three museums blocks from each other. The best is the Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts).

The museum was created in 1801, shortly after the Revolution, but efforts toward amassing its collection began even earlier in 1790. It houses one of the most impressive collections in France and features paintings, sculptures, drawings and objects of art, ranging from the 15th century to the present day.

Joan of Arc, famous saint and heroine of France, was killed in Rouen. She was taken to the old market place where she was burned at the stake. There is a memorial to her at the site, a bit of a morbid attraction.

Killings aside, we very much enjoyed our venture through Normandy. The area is beautiful and the towns drew us in. It is an ‘I could live here’ place, offering up a multitude of pleasures to satisfy anyone.

Sole Meunière

"I closed my eyes and inhaled the rising perfume. Then I lifted a forkful of fish to my mouth, took a bite, and chewed slowly. The flesh of the sole was delicate, with a light but distinct taste of the ocean that blended marvelously with the browned butter. I chewed slowly and swallowed. It was a morsel of perfection." - Julia Child, describing her first meal in France.

Sole Meunière was the first dish Julia Child enjoyed after disembarking at the port city of Le Havre and driving to Restaurant La Couronne in Rouen for lunch. She wrote about that meal often. What she didn't know at the time, was that it would be her first stop on a long road to a whole new adventure and career that would last the rest of her life.

This is a classic and delicious French dish, but it is easy and quick in its preparation. Julia made it with clarified butter and without lemon. I make it both ways but enjoy the addition of lemon as it cuts the richness of the butter and adds more flavor. Serve it with rice and a mélange of vegetables.

Sole Meunière
(Makes 6 servings.)

• 6 sole fillets (about 6 to 8 ounces) each, skinned
• 1/2 cup all purpose flour (or gluten-free flour for a GF dish)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 6 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil or vegetable oil
• 6 tablespoon (3 ounces) butter
• 2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, plus sliced lemon for garnish
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

Sole Meunière

Rinse the fish and pat it dry with paper towels. Sprinkle both sides of fish with salt and pepper. 

Place flour on a plate or in a pie pan. Season with salt and pepper.

Dredge fish on both sides in seasoned flour; shake off excess. Place on a separate plate.

Heat 2 teaspoons of oil and 2 teaspoons of butter in large skillet over medium-high heat until oil is hot and shimmers. Reduce heat to medium and add fish, skinned side up. Cook until golden on bottom, about 1 minute. Carefully turn fish over and cook until opaque in center and golden on bottom, about 2 minutes (this should be done in batches, cleaning the skillet in between and adding more butter and oil). Divide fish among 6 warmed plates; tent with foil.

Pour off drippings from skillet; wipe with paper towels.

To make the sauce, place skillet over medium heat. Add remaining butter, should be about 4 tablespoons, until melted and beginning to brown. Remove from heat, add the lemon juice and swirl the mixture in the pan. Spoon over the warm fillets and sprinkle with parsley. Garnish with the lemon slices and serve immediately.

Bon Appétit!

Memories of Julia Child

The first dinner party I ever hosted was when I was around sixteen years old. As mentioned in my first post, my best friend and I decided to prepare a rather elaborate meal for our French teacher as one of our class projects.

Neither of us had ever made a complete soup to nuts dinner before, let alone a rather sophisticated French one. This impromptu feast changed what I knew about food and introduced me to French gastronomy and the world of Julia Child.

Julia Child Memorabilia

We had borrowed her ground-breaking cookbook, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, from the library and carefully selected each course. The meal was wonderful and it left me wanting to know more about the author, food in general, and French cooking in particular.

Julia, of course, was ever-present on PBS from the mid sixties to the year 2000. Watching her show was a joy as she cooked and recovered from mishaps with ease and good humor. Nothing seemed to bother her; a good lesson in these days of temperamental and ego-driven ‘celebrity’ chefs.

My favorite shows were the later ones with French chef Jacques Pépin, who I also enjoy and admire. Seeing them cook together was like peeking through the kitchen window of a long-married couple as they affectionately bantered and bickered their way through a meal.

She was surely a cultural icon, having introduced French cooking to Americans through her book, writings and TV programs, but she was so much more. Julia came from a privileged background, attended boarding school and was a graduate of Smith College, yet she chose to join the Office of Strategic Services (OSS) during World War II and made significant contributions on behalf of our country.

Diploma from Le Cordon Bleu 

At the OSS she met Paul Child. The couple married and later Mr. Child joined the United States Foreign Service. They moved to Paris when the State Department assigned him to a position with the US Information Agency there.

Julia’s affluent family had a cook while she was growing up, so she never had a reason to rummage through kitchen cabinets wondering what to eat. Her husband, a bit of a gourmand, is the one who introduced her to fine cuisine.

In Paris she took this newfound interest in food seriously and pursued it by attending the famous Le Cordon Bleu cooking school and studying privately with a number of accomplished French chefs. She joined a cooking club, Le Cercle des Gourmettes, which led to her meeting the women who would eventually become her co-authors in writing Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

Child's Kitchen at the Smithsonian's
National Museum of American History in DC

She taught, wrote articles and penned a regular column for The Boston Globe newspaper. She then became the TV personality she is most known for. The unedited program let her authenticity and approachability shine through. She brought an interest in food and new ingredients to the masses and has been credited with nudging grocers to expand their offerings to include, what was at the time, more foreign and unfamiliar ingredients. Through her show she also introduced the country to other renowned chefs and their cooking techniques.

In addition to food, Julia also had an interest in wine. She was a good friend of vintner Robert Mondavi and together, along with others, founded the American Institute of Wine and Food. The organization’s charter was to ‘advance the understanding, appreciation and quality of wine and food.’ As she strode down her long and prestigious path, she picked up numerous honors and awards along the way, including an Emmy award in 1966.

A Big Fan

Julia donated her kitchen, which served as the set for three of her television programs, to the National Museum of American History, which is part of the Smithsonian in Washington, DC. Her husband had designed the kitchen for her, including high counters to accommodate her 6 foot 2 inch height. It is on permanent display as part of an exhibit titled FOOD: Transforming the American Table 1950–2000.

Along with her passing, a more genteel way of cooking, teaching and sharing died too. She was a force, a one-of-a-kind, a visionary and a character. There is no one like her today.

Julia had nothing in common with current ‘celebrity’ chefs, and I would doubt she would have liked much on the Food Network. She had a fascinating life and made many true, long-lasting contributions.

I know it is popular, but I really dislike the Food Network, particularly all the reality TV challenges they air ad nauseam. I don’t respect or like most of the so-called ‘stars.’ I find them a bit arrogant and don’t learn from them. In the beginning they had some fun and interesting shows, but that was then.

1966 Emmy Award

There is one exception, Ina Garten. She reminds me a bit of Julia and would fit well on PBS. She had an early career in government, working for the White House Office of Management and Budget. She also didn’t know much about food but one day happened to notice an ad for a small gourmet store in the Hamptons on Long Island. Deciding to take a huge leap of faith by changing careers mid-life, she bought the store and was successful from day one.

She appears to be warm, approachable and easy going. Her recipes are not complicated, are thoroughly tested, (surprisingly many recipes in cookbooks are not) and are very good. Watching her happy show gives viewers the sense they can recreate her meals, and perhaps throw a fabulous party with flair and ease. Like Julia, she is a person to be respected; creating a successful business out of a belief in herself that blossomed into so much more.

A movie was made a few years back titled Julie and Julia. I would have loved it had it not included Julie, a tiresome self-centered girl who dramatically agonized over cooking every recipe in Julia’s cookbook. Julia’s life was so compelling and she was well portrayed by Meryl Streep. Julie was simply a downer.

Maybe someday a fine documentary will be made to honor her exceptional life. Meanwhile, I will continue to cook from Mastering the Art of French Cooking all these years later. The only difference is, instead of borrowing it from the library, I have my own long-since faded and soiled copy.

Bon Appétit!

Shrimp Creole

This is my "go-to" recipe when I need to cook something quick and easy for company, a large group or for a nice dinner at home. Everyone has a recipe like this that they can pull out in a pinch, this is my favorite.

I always have all the ingredients on hand ... shrimp in the freezer, vegetables in the produce basket, canned diced tomatoes in the pantry ... as these same ingredients can be used in so many recipes.

Most people love this simple recipe but, of course, there are those who are allergic to shellfish. No problem, before you throw in the shrimp, take out enough of the vegetable mixture for a serving and add some cooked chicken or tofu instead ... it's all good.

Shrimp Creole
(Serves 4 to 6.)

• 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 1 cup chopped red bell pepper or mixed peppers
• 8 ounces sliced white mushrooms
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 6 green onions, chopped
• 1 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes
• Hot sauce, to taste
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 1/2 pounds medium-large shrimp, shelled and deveined
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 5 cups warmed cooked rice

Shrimp Creole

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the celery and the bell peppers. Sauté until vegetables just begin to soften. Add the sliced mushrooms, garlic and green onions. Continue to cook a few minutes more until the vegetables are almost tender.

Add the diced tomatoes along with their juice, the hot sauce, and the bay leaf. Bring the mixture to a simmer, reduce heat to low and continue to simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Discard the bay leaf.

Add the shrimp, submerging them within the sauce. Cook until the shrimp are just cooked through, do not overcook. Stir in the parsley and add the salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the shrimp mixture over warmed rice.

Hungarian Cottage Cheese Spread (Körözött)

This is a spicy Hungarian spread that can be whipped up in minutes. It does need time to chill though, so the flavors have a chance to blend together.

Enjoy it spread on some nice crusty bread slices along with some soup or a salad.

Hungarian Cottage Cheese Spread (Körözött)
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 1 cup cottage cheese
• 1/2 medium onion, minced
• 4 tablespoons butter, softened
• 1 teaspoon of sweet red paprika powder
• 1 teaspoon of ground caraway seeds
• 1 tablespoon of sour cream
• Salt, to taste
• Chopped spring onions, for garnish

Hungarian Cottage Cheese Spread (Körözött)

Mix all ingredients thoroughly until well combined.

Let it chill for 3 to 4 hours so flavors come together.

Spread the körözött on crusty bread and serve with chopped spring onions or diced tomatoes.

Budapest, Enjoying Some Sites

Budapest is not only loaded with history, it is a gorgeous city bisected by the Danube River, the second longest river in Europe. A series of bridges, including the well-known 19th-century Chain Bridge, connect the hilly Buda district to the West with flat Pest to the East. The Buda side features two hills, Castle Hill and Gellért Hill.

Royal Palace

A funicular runs up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town. Don’t look for an old fashioned castle atop Castle Hill, there is none. Instead the Royal Palace lies there, rebuilt a number of times through the years; the last being after WWII. It houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum. The palace has a terrace offering nice views across the river to Pest.

Fishermen’s Bastion

Further down is Trinity Square, home to the 13th-century Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion. The church, according to lore, was originally built in the Romanesque style in 1015, although no archaeological remains exist. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times over, with a major renovation in the late 19th century and further restoration after WWII. Fishermen’s Bastion is one of many fanciful structures that sprung up, along with buildings of more stature, in 1896 to celebrate Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Its ramparts also offer sweeping views down the Danube and over to Pest.

Hungarian Parliament

The perhaps more important sites are on the Pest side, including the majestic Hungarian Parliament building. The interior is as impressive as its striking façade, which dominates the eastern shore of the Danube. The grand 96-step double staircase, ornate ceiling, opulent décor and impressive legislative chamber are interesting and definitely worth booking a tour to see.

Bronze Shoes Holocaust Monument

Also along the river’s edge lies the poignant Holocaust Monument. Fifty pairs of bronze shoes are displayed in honor of Jews shot here by Nazis so their bodies would fall into the water to be swept away by the current.

St. István’s Basilica is Budapest’s largest church. Like so many of Budapest’s impressive structures, it was built around the 1896 1000th anniversary. This was such an important year and event that the number 96 is ever present in structures and symbolism throughout the city. The church has been beautifully restored and houses a magnificent dome, fine statuary, and gleaming gold décor, columns, walls and altars. It is well worth a visit.

Great Synagogue

The city’s Great Synagogue is the second largest in the world, second only to Temple Emanuel in New York. Built in 1859, it looks and feels much more like a church. The synagogue was damaged during WWII, but not destroyed. Ironically the Nazis may have protected it, keeping it intact for their own use during their occupation. It is a treasure and is important, not only for its history and beauty, but also for its museum and Memorial Garden.

Tree of Life

Many Jews died here in the ghetto from deplorable conditions during the war. After liberation by the Soviets, a mass grave was dug for the over 2000 victims of starvation and disease. Survivors and families have donated trees and headstones, creating a remarkable garden memorial. Further along an impressive and emotional sculpture comes into view. The graceful Tree of Life willow, growing from an upside-down menorah, is striking. Each of the delicate 4000 metal leaves is etched with a name of a holocaust victim. New leaves are continuously added, donated by families of victims. No matter one’s background or religious beliefs, the synagogue and garden are a must stop to reflect and pay homage to victims of a brutal and inexcusable time in history.

Great Market Hall

On the opposite end of the spectrum is the lively Great Market Hall. As mentioned in earlier postings, I love to roam around markets. It is fun to watch the serious locals going about their shopping rituals alongside curious tourists browsing for a snack or memento. This one is huge, chocked full of produce, butcher, cheese, spice and bakery stalls. Upstairs from the main market floor are racks of souvenirs, pocketbooks, shawls and embroidery. There are also some quick eateries, one of which I stopped by for a bowl of tasty goulash. The smelly basement contains fishmongers and pickle packers.

A walk or metró ride down the 2-mile long Andrássy út ends at Heroes’ Square. Along the way sits the lavish late 19th-century State Opera House. Tours are available and, like the Parliament, the dramatic interior is worth seeing. I prefer attending a performance rather than taking a tour of any important musical venue, it is so much more satisfying. We attended a tribute to Franz Liszt while we were there. At reasonable prices, it is very doable to take in a concert, even if only staying for the first half.

Heroes’ Square

Further along the grand boulevard past the opera house are stately buildings, small museums, cafés, picturesque squares and pretty villas, many of which now house foreign embassies. The World Heritage Site, Heroes’ Square, looms at the end. It was commissioned as part of the 1896 anniversary celebration, although it wasn’t finished until 1929, after the country’s defeat in WWI. The statue-laden Millennium Monument is the centerpiece with the Museum of Fine Arts and the Hall of Art flanking either side.

Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

This is the gateway to the City Park, the site of Hungary’s 1000th birthday bash of 1896. It is among the first public parks in the world opened to the people for their enjoyment. The park is filled with an odd assortment of leftover celebration goodies. The famous Széchenyi Medicinal Bath, the best and most well-known of Budapest’s numerous baths, is located here. The structure is lovely but access to the interior is limited to those who wish to partake in the popular soaking ritual. Anyone interested is invited to join in for a fee.

Kitty Cats in the City Park Zoo

Among the park’s other treasures are a replica of a Transylvania castle, Vajdahunyad Castle, which houses the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture, a nice little zoo, an amusement area, ponds, statues and spots to picnic and relax. An ongoing major renovation is expected to continue throughout the park into 2020.

Margaret Island

In the Danube River, between Buda and Pest, lies another unique park. More centrally located than the City Park, Margaret Island is a tranquil getaway where residents can enjoy a run, bike ride or a stroll. It is a country retreat smack in the middle of the river in the middle of the city. Trails and jogging paths weave about the park past an art nouveau water tower, the ruins of a 13th-century Dominican convent, a musical fountain and a tiny zoo. Other attractions include thermal spas and swimming pools. Bars and restaurants spring up in the summer while bands entertain. It is a delightful oasis. I spent a good part of a day here and, since it was mid-week in October, had the whole island to myself.

Szentendre

With his business conference behind him, my husband joined me on our last day for a side trip to Szentendre on the Danube Bend. We hopped aboard the H5 HÉV suburban train at the Batthyány tér station on the Buda side. About 40 minutes later we arrived at the Szentendre station and a short walk took us to the center of town.

This charming village, whose name means Saint Andrew, is known as an artist’s community and thus has a plethora of art galleries for browsers and art aficionados to explore. The streets are lined with quaint, well-preserved buildings, many of which were built in a Balkan style, as the area was originally settled by Serb refugees.

There are seven churches in this tiny town. A visit to Church Hill not only offers a chance to see some up close, but also offers good views over the rooftops to the river. Down by the river’s edge are a few restaurants as well as trails that offer an opportunity to enjoy a hike before heading back to the big city.

It is always nice when visiting a capital city to venture out to experience the countryside, even if it is just for a day trip.

As I wrote in my last post, I loved everything about Budapest … the sites, atmosphere, people, food, easiness … the whole package. It would be lovely to return some day.

Budapest, A Few Notes and Tips

Though it wasn’t anywhere on my travel bucket list, I was invited to join my husband on a business trip to Budapest awhile back. Not one to pass on a European adventure, the answer was Igen! Yes! I would love to go!

I had some mixed feelings, however, excited to see a new country and city, yet a little apprehensive because I had been warned of unscrupulous taxi drivers, tourist scams and petty thieves. Of course every city has its share of dishonest people eager to prey on unsuspecting tourists, including here in the US. The trick to avoid becoming a target is to be armed with good information ahead of time. A little research can mean the difference between being an easy mark or a self assured traveler.

A Striking Budapest, Hungary's Capital City

For straight-forward information, I always read the Rick Steves book that applies to the city I am about to visit. I don’t always agree with his restaurant and hotel recommendations (I think some proprietors get spoiled by the easy stream of business he provides and no longer feel the need to make an effort), but his general information and advice is excellent. It is still good to confirm important information online as even the current books are always a bit out of date. Schedules change, prices go up, trolley stops are added, names change, etc.

Hungary is part of the European Union (EU) and is a Schengen Area country. It is recommended to have six months validity left on a passport and two blank pages for stamps. The official currency is the Hungarian Forint (HUF), however, they are looking to adopt the Euro in the near future. The language is a tough one; it doesn’t resemble any other European language. I always learn a few words in the native tongue of wherever I am traveling, but even the most basic Hungarian words can be a bit challenging. Fortunately, English is widely spoken in Budapest, but probably a problem in the smaller, less touristy towns.

Mythical Turul Bird of the Magyars

Budapest is the capital of Hungary. Romans settled in the area over two thousand years ago. In 896 the Magyars arrived and made Buda and Pest, across the Danube from each other, Hungary’s most important towns. In the 16th century the Ottomans occupied the region until the Habsburgs forced them out. Austria-Hungary was formed in 1867 through a constitutional agreement known as the Compromise. Budapest was formed in 1873 through the merger of Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (a smaller town on the Buda side). Throughout the following decades Budapest enjoyed its golden age, particularly during the years leading up to 1896, Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Defeat in World War I brought an end to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and World War II left Hungary under communist control until 1989. It joined the EU in 2004.

If arriving in Budapest by plane, the easiest way to get into town is by taxi. There is a process which involves going to a dispatch stand then waiting in line for the cab. The rates are supposed to be set according to distance. Being aware of the reputation of some taxi drivers, I was a bit suspect of the process, but I had a guardian angel by my side.

Sitting next to me on our connection from Munich was a lovely young woman from Budapest. We chatted the entire flight about the country, the city, living under communist rule, becoming part of the EU, her job and family, etc. (her English was better than mine). When we landed she insisted on guiding my husband and me through the airport and to the taxi stand. She spoke to the dispatcher, gave us the paper we needed for the driver and waited until we were off. This is how we found the people of Budapest; incredibly pleasant, friendly and anxious to help.

Sunset View of Buda from Marriott's Terrace

Travelers arriving at one of the three main train stations in town should avoid the taxis waiting outside. Instead, it is best to take public transportation or have the phone number of a reputable taxi company on hand.

We stayed at the Marriott on the Pest side of the river. Although there are much prettier hotels in town, the unattractive communist-era Marriott building belies the lovely hotel lurking within. Rooms overlooking the Danube have gorgeous views, and the rooftop executive lounge and accompanying terrace offer breathtaking vistas of Buda, the river and bridges by day and by night. It is worth the extra expense to have access to this beautiful space.

Budapest is a great walking city. I love to explore a place on foot, there is so much more to see and enjoy when exploring up close and personal. I walked everywhere, never needing public transportation or cabs (except to and from the airport of course).

A Bit of Street Whimsy

Wandering Budapest’s vibrant streets and delightful squares is a joy. An amusing statue may pop up at any turn - some symbolic, some whimsical; including one of Ronald Reagan walking down the path, which seems a wee bit out of place for this Irish-American. A particularly pleasant stroll is along the river promenade between the Chain and Elizabeth Bridge.

Of all the attractive bridges that span the Danube, Chain Bridge is both the most historical and meaningful. The first bridge to join Buda and Pest, this important city symbol was completed in 1849, destroyed by the Nazis at the end of WWII, and was swiftly rebuilt.

For less passionate walkers, or for the sake of expediency, the metró system is a breeze and is quite historic in its own right. The Millennium Underground (line M1) travels from the city center down Andrássy út to Heroes’ Square. It was the first underground line on the continent and was originally designed for horse-drawn cars. Now this shallow line, combined with the city’s more traditional metró lines (M2, M3 and M4), provides a quick and easy way to get around. The same metró ticket works on the entire transportation system, including trams, buses, trolleys and boats.

An enjoyable culinary scene is alive and well in Budapest. The city is full of appealing little restaurants serving up good and reasonably priced food. The Hungarian menus are filled with international dishes, not just goulash (which, by the way, is a soup, not a stew). There are restaurants of every ethnic persuasion throughout the city, ready to satisfy anyone’s tastes. Hungary is a wine producing country and has its own excellent selection of fine wines to go along with the satisfying food.

Enjoyable Restaurants Abound

It is always a good idea to make dinner reservations, particularly at the more popular restaurants. That way a table will be guaranteed, avoiding disappointment.

There is just something special about a luxurious and grand old café serving up coffee in miniature silver pots accompanied by decadent, sweet pastries. I am mesmerized by them and must stop to stare through their windows, longing to join in, whenever I pass by. Like Vienna, Budapest gave birth to a lovely café culture in the late 19th century. The elegant cafés were ruined by the communists, but many have since been reborn. Relaxing in a historical café is a wonderful custom and one every traveler should take the time to enjoy.

As with any city, it is tempting to dine in the charming and busy tourist streets and squares, but restaurants located in these areas often serve bad food at high prices. The food can be served with a few scams as well. It is always best to go a little away from the tourist zones and dine where locals do. Any restaurant not listing menu prices should be avoided as the bill may come with an unwelcome surprise.

Upstairs at the Great Market Hall

I usually don’t do much shopping while traveling unless something very special catches my eye. There are too many important things to see and do to waste time in stores, besides, not much else is going to fit in my small, carry-on bag. Memories and photos are my best souvenirs. So I can’t recommend where to shop or what to buy. If I was going to bring back a few items, I would probably head to the Great Market Hall, which I’ll mention in my next sightseeing post. I think that would be a good place to pick up a pretty jar of paprika, a nice scarf or some embroidery.

Budapest enchanted and surprised me. I loved every minute there and, even though I spent the majority of time on my own, I never felt the least bit uncomfortable. It is a beautiful, welcoming city and should be high on the bucket list of anyone who enjoys European travel.

My next post will highlight the sites I was able to see on our brief visit including a side trip to the Danube bend town of Szentendre.

Pear and Ginger Muffins

These are my very favorite muffins. Moist and full of flavor, they are packed with chopped pears and are perfect for breakfast or a mid-day snack.

Pear and Ginger Muffins
(Makes 12 large or 18 medium-sized muffins.)

• 1 3/4 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar, plus extra for topping 
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 2/3 cup sour cream
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 2 large eggs
• 1 1/2 cups peeled, cored and finely diced (about 1/4-inch) pears

Preheat oven to 400^oF.

Pear and Ginger Muffins

Line a muffin pan with muffin papers.

In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, baking powder, white sugar, 1/2 cup brown sugar and the ground ginger.

In a measuring pitcher or bowl, whisk together the sour cream, oil, honey and eggs. Pour into the dry ingredients and fold together just until mixed. Add pears and fold again to distribute the pears.

Divide batter evenly among the muffin cups. Sprinkle each with 1/2 teaspoon brown sugar.

Bake until risen and firm, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool. Serve while still a little warm.

Wild Mushroom Risotto ... Creamy, Earthy, Satisfying

Happy Valentine's Day!

Why not make something a little different tonight. Go Italian with a delicious and satisfying risotto and treat yourself to a nice bottle of Brunello di Montalcino for a perfect celebration.

Gluten free and vegetarian friendly, this is a wonderful dish for everyone to enjoy. It is so creamy and flavorful with the mushrooms providing a rich, earthy taste. The risotto can be used as an appetizer, main course or even a side dish.

Usually, if I have leftover risotto, I make risotto patties or Arancini di Riso (rice balls stuffed with Mozzarella), but recently I heated up the leftovers with some broth and added cooked chicken for a complete meal ... it turned out great.

Wild Mushroom Risotto
(Serves 8 as a side dish, 6 as an appetizer, 4 as a main course.)

• 2 quarts mushroom or chicken stock
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 pound of portobello and other assorted mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
• Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 shallots, peeled and minced
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
• 1 pound arborio rice
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or more to taste

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Heat stock is a large saucepan and keep at a simmer over low heat.

In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter over high heat. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the mushrooms have softened. Set aside.

In a large stockpot, heat 2 more tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil over medium-high heat until the butter melts. Sauté the shallots for 1 to 2 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic and cook for about 2 minutes longer. Add the rice and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 7 to 10 minutes, until it turns milky white and opaque, and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan. Add the thyme and continue stirring.

Add the wine and stir for about 2 minutes, until nearly absorbed. Ladle about 1 cup of the simmering stock into the rice. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring often, until the stock is almost completely absorbed. Add more stock, a cup at a time, stirring gently, until the broth is absorbed by the rice before adding the next cup.

 After about 15 minutes, begin tasting the rice. At this point, add the stock judiciously. The rice should be firm, yet cooked through in 18 to 20 minutes total cooking time.

Stir in the sautéed mushrooms, the Parmesan, and the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Chocolate Cupcakes

These rich, moist, chocolaty cupcakes are a real crowd pleaser. I top them with Chocolate Buttercream for a double chocolate treat, or when I want something a bit more elegant, I use Seven Minute Frosting. Either way, they are delicious.

Cupcakes are perfect for decorating. It's fun to fancy them up to go with a theme or to simply make them pretty. Add some hearts for Valentine's day for a sweet ending to a special meal. I added footballs when I brought some to a Superbowl party last week.

Chocolate Cupcakes
(Makes a dozen cupcakes.)

• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 1/2 cup Dutch-processed cocoa
• 3/4 cup all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 3/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 2 large eggs
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• Chocolate Buttercream Frosting, recipe follows

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position.
Preheat oven to 350°F.

Chocolate Cupcakes

Line a 12-cup muffin pan with baking cup liners.

Combine butter, chocolate, and cocoa in medium heatproof bowl. Set bowl over saucepan containing barely simmering water. Heat mixture until butter and chocolate are melted and whisk until smooth and fully combined. Set aside to cool until just warm to the touch.

Whisk flour, baking soda, and baking powder in a small bowl to combine.

Whisk eggs in second medium bowl to combine. Add sugar, vanilla, and salt. Whisk until fully incorporated. Add cooled chocolate mixture and whisk until combined. Sift about one-third of flour mixture over mixture and whisk until combined. Whisk in sour cream until combined, then sift remaining flour mixture over and whisk until batter is smooth and thick.

Divide batter evenly among muffin pan cups. Bake until a skewer inserted into center of cupcakes comes out clean, 18 to 20 minutes.

Cool cupcakes in muffin pan on a wire rack until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Carefully lift each cupcake from muffin pan and set on a wire rack until. Cool to room temperature before icing, about 30 minutes.

Chocolate Buttercream Frosting
(Makes 1 1/2 cups, enough for 12 cupcakes.)
• 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup confectioner’s sugar
• Pinch table salt
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled

Cupcake Fun

In standing mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat butter at medium-high speed until smooth about 20 seconds. Add confectioners’ sugar and salt; beat at medium-low speed until most of the sugar is moistened, about 45 seconds.

Scrape down bowl and beat at medium speed until mixture is fully combined, about 15 seconds; scrape bowl, add vanilla and beat at medium speed until incorporated, about 10 seconds, then reduce speed to low and gradually beat in chocolate. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes, scraping down bowl once or twice.

Minty Lamb Chops

Say 'I love you' with some delicious minty lamb chops for a special Valentine's dinner.

This recipe has been in my collection forever. I've tried lamb chops every which way, but this remains my favorite. I don’t bother to make them any other way anymore as they are so very easy and tasty.

Mint goes very nicely with the strong flavor of the lamb, and because the sauce has so many balancing ingredients, the mint isn't overpowering at all, it's just perfect.

I recently made a rack of the Frenched chops as appetizers using this recipe and they were snapped up before I could walk back into the kitchen.

Minty Lamb Chops
(Serves 4, 2 chops each.)

• 3 tablespoons mint jelly
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce (use gluten-free soy sauce for a GF dish)
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint or 2 teaspoons of dry mint leaves
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• 8 lamb chops
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Preheat broiler.

Minty Lamb Chops

In a small sauce pan, stir jelly over low heat just until melted, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vinegar, soy sauce, oil, mint, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and garlic. Divide in two small bowls and set aside.

Salt and pepper both sides of lamb chops. Place chops on a rack in a broiler pan. Using the sauce from one of the bowls, generously brush mint sauce over top of chops.

Broil chops about 4 inches from heat until browned, about 10 minutes. Turn chops over and brush with more mint sauce. Cook until desired doneness, 8 to 10 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer two chops to each plate and top with a little of the sauce from the second bowl.