Budapest, Enjoying Some Sites

Budapest is not only loaded with history, it is a gorgeous city bisected by the Danube River, the second longest river in Europe. A series of bridges, including the well-known 19th-century Chain Bridge, connect the hilly Buda district to the West with flat Pest to the East. The Buda side features two hills, Castle Hill and Gellért Hill.

Royal Palace

A funicular runs up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town. Don’t look for an old fashioned castle atop Castle Hill, there is none. Instead the Royal Palace lies there, rebuilt a number of times through the years; the last being after WWII. It houses the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum. The palace has a terrace offering nice views across the river to Pest.

Fishermen’s Bastion

Further down is Trinity Square, home to the 13th-century Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion. The church, according to lore, was originally built in the Romanesque style in 1015, although no archaeological remains exist. It has been destroyed and rebuilt many times over, with a major renovation in the late 19th century and further restoration after WWII. Fishermen’s Bastion is one of many fanciful structures that sprung up, along with buildings of more stature, in 1896 to celebrate Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Its ramparts also offer sweeping views down the Danube and over to Pest.

Hungarian Parliament

The perhaps more important sites are on the Pest side, including the majestic Hungarian Parliament building. The interior is as impressive as its striking façade, which dominates the eastern shore of the Danube. The grand 96-step double staircase, ornate ceiling, opulent décor and impressive legislative chamber are interesting and definitely worth booking a tour to see.

Bronze Shoes Holocaust Monument

Also along the river’s edge lies the poignant Holocaust Monument. Fifty pairs of bronze shoes are displayed in honor of Jews shot here by Nazis so their bodies would fall into the water to be swept away by the current.

St. István’s Basilica is Budapest’s largest church. Like so many of Budapest’s impressive structures, it was built around the 1896 1000th anniversary. This was such an important year and event that the number 96 is ever present in structures and symbolism throughout the city. The church has been beautifully restored and houses a magnificent dome, fine statuary, and gleaming gold décor, columns, walls and altars. It is well worth a visit.

Great Synagogue

The city’s Great Synagogue is the second largest in the world, second only to Temple Emanuel in New York. Built in 1859, it looks and feels much more like a church. The synagogue was damaged during WWII, but not destroyed. Ironically the Nazis may have protected it, keeping it intact for their own use during their occupation. It is a treasure and is important, not only for its history and beauty, but also for its museum and Memorial Garden.

Tree of Life

Many Jews died here in the ghetto from deplorable conditions during the war. After liberation by the Soviets, a mass grave was dug for the over 2000 victims of starvation and disease. Survivors and families have donated trees and headstones, creating a remarkable garden memorial. Further along an impressive and emotional sculpture comes into view. The graceful Tree of Life willow, growing from an upside-down menorah, is striking. Each of the delicate 4000 metal leaves is etched with a name of a holocaust victim. New leaves are continuously added, donated by families of victims. No matter one’s background or religious beliefs, the synagogue and garden are a must stop to reflect and pay homage to victims of a brutal and inexcusable time in history.

Great Market Hall

On the opposite end of the spectrum is the lively Great Market Hall. As mentioned in earlier postings, I love to roam around markets. It is fun to watch the serious locals going about their shopping rituals alongside curious tourists browsing for a snack or memento. This one is huge, chocked full of produce, butcher, cheese, spice and bakery stalls. Upstairs from the main market floor are racks of souvenirs, pocketbooks, shawls and embroidery. There are also some quick eateries, one of which I stopped by for a bowl of tasty goulash. The smelly basement contains fishmongers and pickle packers.

A walk or metró ride down the 2-mile long Andrássy út ends at Heroes’ Square. Along the way sits the lavish late 19th-century State Opera House. Tours are available and, like the Parliament, the dramatic interior is worth seeing. I prefer attending a performance rather than taking a tour of any important musical venue, it is so much more satisfying. We attended a tribute to Franz Liszt while we were there. At reasonable prices, it is very doable to take in a concert, even if only staying for the first half.

Heroes’ Square

Further along the grand boulevard past the opera house are stately buildings, small museums, cafés, picturesque squares and pretty villas, many of which now house foreign embassies. The World Heritage Site, Heroes’ Square, looms at the end. It was commissioned as part of the 1896 anniversary celebration, although it wasn’t finished until 1929, after the country’s defeat in WWI. The statue-laden Millennium Monument is the centerpiece with the Museum of Fine Arts and the Hall of Art flanking either side.

Széchenyi Medicinal Bath

This is the gateway to the City Park, the site of Hungary’s 1000th birthday bash of 1896. It is among the first public parks in the world opened to the people for their enjoyment. The park is filled with an odd assortment of leftover celebration goodies. The famous Széchenyi Medicinal Bath, the best and most well-known of Budapest’s numerous baths, is located here. The structure is lovely but access to the interior is limited to those who wish to partake in the popular soaking ritual. Anyone interested is invited to join in for a fee.

Kitty Cats in the City Park Zoo

Among the park’s other treasures are a replica of a Transylvania castle, Vajdahunyad Castle, which houses the Museum of Hungarian Agriculture, a nice little zoo, an amusement area, ponds, statues and spots to picnic and relax. An ongoing major renovation is expected to continue throughout the park into 2020.

Margaret Island

In the Danube River, between Buda and Pest, lies another unique park. More centrally located than the City Park, Margaret Island is a tranquil getaway where residents can enjoy a run, bike ride or a stroll. It is a country retreat smack in the middle of the river in the middle of the city. Trails and jogging paths weave about the park past an art nouveau water tower, the ruins of a 13th-century Dominican convent, a musical fountain and a tiny zoo. Other attractions include thermal spas and swimming pools. Bars and restaurants spring up in the summer while bands entertain. It is a delightful oasis. I spent a good part of a day here and, since it was mid-week in October, had the whole island to myself.

Szentendre

With his business conference behind him, my husband joined me on our last day for a side trip to Szentendre on the Danube Bend. We hopped aboard the H5 HÉV suburban train at the Batthyány tér station on the Buda side. About 40 minutes later we arrived at the Szentendre station and a short walk took us to the center of town.

This charming village, whose name means Saint Andrew, is known as an artist’s community and thus has a plethora of art galleries for browsers and art aficionados to explore. The streets are lined with quaint, well-preserved buildings, many of which were built in a Balkan style, as the area was originally settled by Serb refugees.

There are seven churches in this tiny town. A visit to Church Hill not only offers a chance to see some up close, but also offers good views over the rooftops to the river. Down by the river’s edge are a few restaurants as well as trails that offer an opportunity to enjoy a hike before heading back to the big city.

It is always nice when visiting a capital city to venture out to experience the countryside, even if it is just for a day trip.

As I wrote in my last post, I loved everything about Budapest … the sites, atmosphere, people, food, easiness … the whole package. It would be lovely to return some day.