Budapest, A Few Notes and Tips

Though it wasn’t anywhere on my travel bucket list, I was invited to join my husband on a business trip to Budapest awhile back. Not one to pass on a European adventure, the answer was Igen! Yes! I would love to go!

I had some mixed feelings, however, excited to see a new country and city, yet a little apprehensive because I had been warned of unscrupulous taxi drivers, tourist scams and petty thieves. Of course every city has its share of dishonest people eager to prey on unsuspecting tourists, including here in the US. The trick to avoid becoming a target is to be armed with good information ahead of time. A little research can mean the difference between being an easy mark or a self assured traveler.

A Striking Budapest, Hungary's Capital City

For straight-forward information, I always read the Rick Steves book that applies to the city I am about to visit. I don’t always agree with his restaurant and hotel recommendations (I think some proprietors get spoiled by the easy stream of business he provides and no longer feel the need to make an effort), but his general information and advice is excellent. It is still good to confirm important information online as even the current books are always a bit out of date. Schedules change, prices go up, trolley stops are added, names change, etc.

Hungary is part of the European Union (EU) and is a Schengen Area country. It is recommended to have six months validity left on a passport and two blank pages for stamps. The official currency is the Hungarian Forint (HUF), however, they are looking to adopt the Euro in the near future. The language is a tough one; it doesn’t resemble any other European language. I always learn a few words in the native tongue of wherever I am traveling, but even the most basic Hungarian words can be a bit challenging. Fortunately, English is widely spoken in Budapest, but probably a problem in the smaller, less touristy towns.

Mythical Turul Bird of the Magyars

Budapest is the capital of Hungary. Romans settled in the area over two thousand years ago. In 896 the Magyars arrived and made Buda and Pest, across the Danube from each other, Hungary’s most important towns. In the 16th century the Ottomans occupied the region until the Habsburgs forced them out. Austria-Hungary was formed in 1867 through a constitutional agreement known as the Compromise. Budapest was formed in 1873 through the merger of Buda, Pest, and Óbuda (a smaller town on the Buda side). Throughout the following decades Budapest enjoyed its golden age, particularly during the years leading up to 1896, Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. Defeat in World War I brought an end to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and World War II left Hungary under communist control until 1989. It joined the EU in 2004.

If arriving in Budapest by plane, the easiest way to get into town is by taxi. There is a process which involves going to a dispatch stand then waiting in line for the cab. The rates are supposed to be set according to distance. Being aware of the reputation of some taxi drivers, I was a bit suspect of the process, but I had a guardian angel by my side.

Sitting next to me on our connection from Munich was a lovely young woman from Budapest. We chatted the entire flight about the country, the city, living under communist rule, becoming part of the EU, her job and family, etc. (her English was better than mine). When we landed she insisted on guiding my husband and me through the airport and to the taxi stand. She spoke to the dispatcher, gave us the paper we needed for the driver and waited until we were off. This is how we found the people of Budapest; incredibly pleasant, friendly and anxious to help.

Sunset View of Buda from Marriott's Terrace

Travelers arriving at one of the three main train stations in town should avoid the taxis waiting outside. Instead, it is best to take public transportation or have the phone number of a reputable taxi company on hand.

We stayed at the Marriott on the Pest side of the river. Although there are much prettier hotels in town, the unattractive communist-era Marriott building belies the lovely hotel lurking within. Rooms overlooking the Danube have gorgeous views, and the rooftop executive lounge and accompanying terrace offer breathtaking vistas of Buda, the river and bridges by day and by night. It is worth the extra expense to have access to this beautiful space.

Budapest is a great walking city. I love to explore a place on foot, there is so much more to see and enjoy when exploring up close and personal. I walked everywhere, never needing public transportation or cabs (except to and from the airport of course).

A Bit of Street Whimsy

Wandering Budapest’s vibrant streets and delightful squares is a joy. An amusing statue may pop up at any turn - some symbolic, some whimsical; including one of Ronald Reagan walking down the path, which seems a wee bit out of place for this Irish-American. A particularly pleasant stroll is along the river promenade between the Chain and Elizabeth Bridge.

Of all the attractive bridges that span the Danube, Chain Bridge is both the most historical and meaningful. The first bridge to join Buda and Pest, this important city symbol was completed in 1849, destroyed by the Nazis at the end of WWII, and was swiftly rebuilt.

For less passionate walkers, or for the sake of expediency, the metró system is a breeze and is quite historic in its own right. The Millennium Underground (line M1) travels from the city center down Andrássy út to Heroes’ Square. It was the first underground line on the continent and was originally designed for horse-drawn cars. Now this shallow line, combined with the city’s more traditional metró lines (M2, M3 and M4), provides a quick and easy way to get around. The same metró ticket works on the entire transportation system, including trams, buses, trolleys and boats.

An enjoyable culinary scene is alive and well in Budapest. The city is full of appealing little restaurants serving up good and reasonably priced food. The Hungarian menus are filled with international dishes, not just goulash (which, by the way, is a soup, not a stew). There are restaurants of every ethnic persuasion throughout the city, ready to satisfy anyone’s tastes. Hungary is a wine producing country and has its own excellent selection of fine wines to go along with the satisfying food.

Enjoyable Restaurants Abound

It is always a good idea to make dinner reservations, particularly at the more popular restaurants. That way a table will be guaranteed, avoiding disappointment.

There is just something special about a luxurious and grand old café serving up coffee in miniature silver pots accompanied by decadent, sweet pastries. I am mesmerized by them and must stop to stare through their windows, longing to join in, whenever I pass by. Like Vienna, Budapest gave birth to a lovely café culture in the late 19th century. The elegant cafés were ruined by the communists, but many have since been reborn. Relaxing in a historical café is a wonderful custom and one every traveler should take the time to enjoy.

As with any city, it is tempting to dine in the charming and busy tourist streets and squares, but restaurants located in these areas often serve bad food at high prices. The food can be served with a few scams as well. It is always best to go a little away from the tourist zones and dine where locals do. Any restaurant not listing menu prices should be avoided as the bill may come with an unwelcome surprise.

Upstairs at the Great Market Hall

I usually don’t do much shopping while traveling unless something very special catches my eye. There are too many important things to see and do to waste time in stores, besides, not much else is going to fit in my small, carry-on bag. Memories and photos are my best souvenirs. So I can’t recommend where to shop or what to buy. If I was going to bring back a few items, I would probably head to the Great Market Hall, which I’ll mention in my next sightseeing post. I think that would be a good place to pick up a pretty jar of paprika, a nice scarf or some embroidery.

Budapest enchanted and surprised me. I loved every minute there and, even though I spent the majority of time on my own, I never felt the least bit uncomfortable. It is a beautiful, welcoming city and should be high on the bucket list of anyone who enjoys European travel.

My next post will highlight the sites I was able to see on our brief visit including a side trip to the Danube bend town of Szentendre.