Travels in France, Normandy Region

I’ve been to France just under a dozen times, the first being as a student on a foreign study program the summer between my junior and senior years of high school. I can’t say that, as teenagers those many years ago, our little group felt particularly welcomed, we did not. But with each passing year, the French have become more tolerant and receptive to well-behaved American tourists, and they particularly like the money we have to spend.

Bayeux

These days I feel very much at home in France and rarely come across anyone with an attitude; but I do my best to blend in, be polite, and speak the language. Although I don’t speak any foreign language well, French is my best, making the experience easier and more rewarding.

France is the largest country in Western Europe by area, but good roads, lots of airports, and fast trains make the distance from one town to another quite manageable. That is unless the country has a labor strike going on, which it often does. Then traveling can quickly become a nightmare. We encountered such a nightmare on our last visit this past spring, but that is a story for another day.

Thinking of my last couple of postings and Julia Child’s first French meal in Rouen, I began recalling our visit to the Normandy region. I’ve enjoyed all the many regions of France we've been, but Normandy may be one of my favorites. It is home to beautiful countryside, amazing food and quaint towns, large and small. It is an easy distance from Paris as well.

We started our visit in the town of Bayeux. Bayeux is a perfect French town; it is simply delightful with its parks, grand cathedral, charming streets and an abundance of history.

Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux

We stayed at the bed and breakfast, Le Petit Matin, and found it to be ideal for our needs. It is located across from a park and within easy walking distance to the train station and downtown. We had a bright room with a large, updated bath. The owners, who live on the premises, were kind and helpful. A nice breakfast was prepared each morning that included a delicious selection of home-made baked goods.

Most people staying in Bayeux are there to visit the Normandy beaches and memorials, which are very close by. We had a short time there and decided to save the beaches for a future trip. One site we wanted to make sure to see was the unique artifact, the Bayeux tapestry. So first thing we headed off to the Musee de la Tapisserie de Bayeux.

Pictures do not do this magnificent piece of art justice. Made in the 11th century, the tapestry is amazingly long (70 meters long and 50 centimeters high). It tells the tale of the October 14, 1066 conquest of England led by William the Conqueror, the Duke of Normandy. Headphones provide an excellent narration while traveling from one panel to the next. The tapestry is well worth seeing, there is nothing else like it.

The Cathedral of Our Lady of Bayeux looms high above the town. This is a very pretty church with a long, impressive nave. It is not particularly ornate, but there is some nice stained glass, including some rare 13th century pieces above the altar. The church is worth a visit during the day and also at night to see the beautifully lit exterior.

Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel

For years I had wanted to see the Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel but never found myself nearby until this trip. We took a shuttle from Bayeux and arrived in heavy fog, so we could not see much upon our approach.

We skipped the shops in the little town and headed up the long stairs to the abbey. We enjoyed walking among the magnificent rooms of the more than 1200 year old monastery, and looking out over the water from above, as the fog began to lift. The history of the mount is fascinating and worth studying a bit prior to visiting.

The Garden Cloister was under construction when we were there, so we did not have the opportunity to see that. We did have time to grab a bite to eat in one of the upper restaurants. We sat outside and had a nice sea view.

The fog lifted by the time we left, so we were able to take in a terrific view of the Abbey from a distance. The distant view is the most dramatic aspect of the mount as it appears to grow from the sea in the middle of nowhere.

Honfleur

On another day we very much enjoyed the charming port town of Honfleur. As a fan of the impressionist painters, particularly Boudin, I had been curious to see this picturesque port. The whole town, especially the old port, is like walking through a picture postcard.

Down by the harbor the menagerie of boats; the carousel; the colorful tall, skinny buildings; the cafés that line the walk … all combine to create a perfectly composed picture. We loved walking about and stopping by one of the outdoor cafés for lunch.

The Boudin Museum is a nice stop for those who appreciate the work of Boudin and his contemporaries. Another good site is St. Catherine Church. Built from wood, the unusual  church has the feeling of an upside-down boat, perhaps reflecting its seafaring heritage.

For a getaway from the crowds and a chance to stretch legs, a hike up the Côte de Grâce to the Notre-Dame de Grâce Chapel is enjoyable and rewarding. The chapel is one of the oldest sanctuaries in the region. It was completed in 1615, replacing a former chapel that was destroyed by a landslide.

View from La Côte de Grâce

La Côte de Grâce offers magnificent panoramic views. On one side are the mouth of the River Seine and the port of Le Havre. On the other is a stunning view over Honfleur and the Seine Valley.

The town is an absolute gem and a joy to visit. It is a must for any trip to Normandy.

The city of Rouen was our last Normandy stop before heading to our final destination of Paris. We arrived on a Sunday, which is normally a dead day in France with most everything closed. (Unfortunately, it is impossible to travel without encountering a few Sundays along the way.) However, on this Sunday, Rouen was alive and in the midst of a huge food festival. Yes!

Rouen

Walking from the train station we weaved in and out to avoid crashing into food stalls, packed outdoor cafés, crowds and musicians until we reached the Hotel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection. This was one of the nicest hotels we’ve ever stayed. We were upgraded to a large junior suite with a modern and beautiful bath. I could have moved in and truly didn't want to leave; it was such a nice, comfortable sanctuary.

As mentioned, Rouen was the city where Julia Child was introduced to French cuisine by her husband Paul. Julia wrote often about the Sole Meunière she had at Restaurant La Couronne. The restaurant is still in existence and, of course, offers a Julia menu.

For those familiar with Monet’s many cathedral paintings, it is Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral that he painted again and again, I believe some 30 times, in different light. There has been a church on the site for over a thousand years. The current Gothic building was finished in the 14th century and has been constantly restored over the years, particularly after the devastation from World War II.

Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral

Within a kind of museum quarter, Rouen shows off three museums blocks from each other. The best is the Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des Beaux-Arts).

The museum was created in 1801, shortly after the Revolution, but efforts toward amassing its collection began even earlier in 1790. It houses one of the most impressive collections in France and features paintings, sculptures, drawings and objects of art, ranging from the 15th century to the present day.

Joan of Arc, famous saint and heroine of France, was killed in Rouen. She was taken to the old market place where she was burned at the stake. There is a memorial to her at the site, a bit of a morbid attraction.

Killings aside, we very much enjoyed our venture through Normandy. The area is beautiful and the towns drew us in. It is an ‘I could live here’ place, offering up a multitude of pleasures to satisfy anyone.