Travels in Spain, Barcelona's Tasty Treats

A ramble down the Ramblas to the Columbus monument and the water is a must for any Barcelona visit. Packed full of people (hold on to wallets and purses), the Ramblas used to be a local shopping street. Unfortunately it has been taken over by tourists and souvenir shops. Nothing is a bargain, especially the restaurants serving up mediocre food.

La Boqueria

The best stop along the Ramblas is the market (La Boqueria). There has been a market here dating back as far as 1200. Just as I can’t pass a church without taking a peek, I can’t pass a market. I love them and this is one of the best anywhere. Brimming with every kind of food and Spanish delicacy imaginable, it is a foodie’s dream. There are also little eateries spread about, if one is lucky enough to snare a seat.

Got Ham?

The front stalls pay a location premium and markup their prices accordingly. A walk toward the back can offer a little better price for the same products.

The food in Spain is always good. The food in Barcelona is outstanding.

Spaniards eat late; both their lunch time and dinner time are much later than in the US, and in most of the rest of Europe. Many locals wouldn’t consider going out for dinner before 10:00pm. It is certainly possible, though, to book an earlier table, like at 9:00 or even 8:30. The best option for dining earlier is to visit a tapas bar or two.

Basque-Style Tapas

We love tapas so it is no hardship to enjoy them for dinner. Many Barcelona tapas bars have a Basque influence, meaning they set out little bites of food for the taking. In Basque Country tapas are called Pintxos and are usually served on pieces of bread with a toothpick. At the end, the used toothpicks are counted to settle the bill. 

It can be up to 20% more expensive to dine outside rather than in. Depending on the location it can be worth the extra expense as tapas are generally an economical way to eat.

One of our favorite Basque-style places to have a drink and a nibble is Sagardi Euskal Taberna near the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. If staying in an area for awhile, it can be fun to feel a little like a local by frequenting the same tapas bar or breakfast café.

Tuna at Arcano

For a fine meal, Arcano is an excellent restaurant choice. Not only is the food and service good, the atmosphere is very nice as well. We have always sat in a wine cellar kind of room with arches and stone walls laden with racks of wine. Their tuna and octopus are both delicious.

The most amazing place to have a meal, however, is Tickets. It was founded by Albert Adrià, who, along with his brother Ferran Adrià, made the Michelin 3-star restaurant, elBulli, famous.

They have since closed elBulli, but in its day it was often referred to as the best restaurant in the world. Our local well-known chef, José Andrés, who brought tapas and imaginative food to Washington, DC (and who has been diligently working to help feed hurricane victims in Puerto Rico and furloughed employees right here in DC) learned many of his creative techniques by working there.

Tickets Red Beets

The Adrià brothers were the ones who came up with the “molecular gastronomy” way of creating innovative food. Albert has a number of restaurants in Barcelona now, all in the same neighborhood.

Tickets, with its one Michelin star, is currently ranked the 25th best restaurant in the world. It is the hardest of their restaurants to get a reservation, but it seems to have gotten a little easier since we were there. Reservations open exactly 2 months in advance at midnight Spanish time, and it is best to immediately book online to be sure to get a seat for a specific date and time.

The restaurant is all theater, hence the name Tickets. It is a kaleidoscope of neon lights, funky furniture, open kitchens, and oversized fruit hanging from the ceiling. It wouldn’t be a surprise to see an elephant and clown passing through. But this fun house has seriously delicious, creative food and operates like a well oiled machine.

Tickets Magic Olives

Diners have a choice between ordering from the menu or having a parade of unexpected little morsels delivered one by one. We chose to have the surprise tastings and enjoyed every minute. After our meal was finished, we were escorted to the dessert room for a couple of sweet bites to end the show. Truly an amazing experience and, although not cheap, it was certainly reasonable.

Barcelona is full of life. It exudes a lifestyle we would all love to have. I could go back again and again. There is so much to soak up, so much to see and do, we didn’t even scratch the surface during our two visits. Hopefully we’ll get to do some more exploring and nibbling very soon.