Travels in Spain, Seville

We very much enjoy traveling around Spain, but there are a couple of cities that we have found particularly inviting. Seville is one of them. It is a beautiful, welcoming city with many things to do and places to see, including interesting and easy side trips.

Houses of the Barrio Santa Cruz

We flew into Seville, grabbed the convenient Especial Aeropuerto (EA) bus into town and walked to the Hotel Alminar, a small, friendly hotel right in the old town center near the cathedral.

Filled with nice shops, good restaurants and tapas bars, Seville’s old quarter, the Barrio Santa Cruz, is made for lingering or for just a delightful stroll. The shady plazas, tiled patios, narrow lanes, and whitewashed homes laden with colorful flower boxes all combine to create an idyllic setting, perfect for getting lost.

The Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, impressive any time of day or night, is a beehive of activity framed by a dramatic backdrop of the cathedral, bell tower and Archbiship’s Palace. Most of the important sites are right here.

The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic church in the world and the third-largest church in Europe (only St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London are bigger). Completed in 1528, the cathedral, as is the case in much of Europe, sits upon the site of a former mosque. The massive nave is 137 by 90 yards, about the size of a city block. The magnificent high altar is comprised of an 80-foot gold wall adorned with statues. It is the largest altarpiece ever made.

View from the Giralda Bell Tower

The Giralda Bell Tower is covered by the cathedral’s entrance ticket. As the tower rises, so does its history. The base consists of blocks from ancient Rome, the middle section was made from bricks by the Moors, and the tower was rebuilt during the Christian era in the 1550s. From the top there are wonderful views of the cathedral spires, its courtyard of orange trees and the city.

Other churches are worth a visit as well including the Church of the Savior. The Baroque structure dates from about 1700 and also replaced an ancient mosque that once stood on the same spot. Many of its chapel statues are set atop floats for the Holy Week processions. The favorite statue in all of Seville, however, resides in the Basílica de la Macarena, the doll-like Weeping Virgin.

Royal Alcázar

One place is worth a visit to Seville alone, the Royal Alcázar, one of the oldest European royal palaces that is still in use today. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987, the palace is a marvelous example of the combined influences of Mudéjar and Christian architecture.

The site, which was originally developed as a fort in 913, has been modified many times over its 11 centuries. In the 14th century, King Pedro added the sumptuous Palacio de Don Pedro. The palace and grounds are exquisite and deserve a leisurely visit. It is best to buy tickets ahead online and go early in the morning.

The Plaza de España is located in the Parque de María Luisa. The monument was built as the centerpiece for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929. Surrounding the main building are 48 small pavilions, each one dedicated to a province of Spain and decorated in illustrated ceramic tiles (azulejos) depicting historic scenes and maps.

Plaza de España

The lovely park surrounding the monument was inspired by Moorish architecture and is laden with fountains, ponds, orange and palm trees, and flower beds.

Across the river is Seville’s Triana neighborhood. It is a delightful place to wander away from the crowds of downtown, visit the market that sits among the ruins of a 12th century castle, and perhaps enjoy a drink or meal at the river's edge.

Two polar opposite activities, bullfighting and flamenco, are both popular and serious business in Seville. As a spectator or participant, the evening paseo, or stroll, is a free and enjoyable way to while away a few hours in the evening before dinner.

Next post, a few places to visit outside of seductive Seville.

Pulled Pork & Coleslaw Sandwiches

Making pulled pork takes a long time, but for pork lovers, it is well worth the wait. If time is not on your side, there are some excellent precooked and sauced pulled pork and pulled chicken products on the market that can be used instead. Serve with a side of beans and there is nothing better on these transition days between winter and summer.

Pulled Pork and Coleslaw Sandwiches
(Serves 4.)

• 2 cups pulled pork, recipe follows
• 1/4 cup barbecue sauce
• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• Creamy coleslaw
• 4 sandwich buns

Pulled Pork and Coleslaw Sandwiches

Toss the pork with barbecue sauce to generously coat the meat.

Mix 2 tablespoons of the barbecue sauce and the mayonnaise together in a small bowl.

Spread the sauce/mayonnaise mixture on top half of bun. Add the sauced pork on the bottom half and top with the coleslaw.







Pulled Pork
(Serves 8 to 10.)
Rub:
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 6 to 8 pound Boston butt or pork shoulder
• 1 beer
• Barbecue sauce

Preheat the oven to 225°F.

Pulled Pork with Sauce

Combine the 6 rub ingredients in a bowl and mix well.

Massage the rub into the pork. Place the rubbed pork in a roasting pan and pour the beer into the pan. Cover the pan with foil and roast for 6 hours, turning the meat every 2 hours.

Remove the foil and roast until the pork has reached an internal temperature of 190°F, about another 2 hours

Remove pork from the oven, cover it loosely with foil, and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Using your hands or two forks, start to "pull" the pork into long pieces. Discard the fat and bone.

Add barbecue sauce to the pulled pork.

Use this basic recipe to make the above pulled pork sandwiches, bruschetta, egg rolls, pizza and many other tasty treats. You are only limited by your imagination.

Beans with Tomatoes and Kale

Kale is a member of the cabbage family and is one of the healthiest and most nutritious plant foods. It is loaded with beneficial vitamins and minerals. This hearty bean recipe is the perfect way to enjoy this nutrient-rich green, especially for those not crazy about eating raw Kale in a salad.

Quick, easy and versatile ... the beans can be served as a side dish, a vegetarian main dish when using vegetable broth, or it can be made into a heartier non-vegetarian meal by adding some cooked and sliced sweet or spicy sausage. This dish is also gluten-free when using a GF broth.

Beans with Tomatoes and Kale
(Makes 4 main dish servings or 8 side dish servings.)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice
• 1 141/2-ounce can vegetable, chicken or beef broth
• 2 cups chopped kale
• 2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans, large white beans or a mix of beans, rinsed and drained
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• Grated Manchego or Parmesan cheese

Beans with Tomatoes and Kale

Heat oil in a heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onion and sauté until soft and just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and cook for about 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes along with their juice and continue to cook 1 minute more. Add the broth and kale and bring to a boil, stirring often.

Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until the kale has wilted and is tender (about 15 minutes), stirring occasionally. Stir in drained beans and simmer to heat through. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve beans in bowls and pass around the grated cheese.

Creamy Coleslaw

Cabbage is so very good for you ... it is one of those wonder foods just packed with nutrients. It is easy to incorporate into soups, egg rolls, salads or use as part of a main dish such as corned beef and cabbage or halupkis (cabbage rolls). But my favorite way to use it is to chop it up with some carrots to make a creamy coleslaw.

I love to serve coleslaw with my Chesapeake Bay Crab Cakes or with barbecued ribs. Leftovers make a great side with a sandwich or to just throw into the sandwich itself. The flavor actually improves with standing, so it is a great make-ahead salad.

Creamy Coleslaw
(Serves 6 to 8.)

Dressing
• 3/4 cup mayonnaise
• 3 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon celery seed
• 3/4 teaspoon salt or to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper or to taste

Slaw
• 1 medium-sized head of green cabbage, shredded; should have about 6 cups
• 1/2 small head of red cabbage, shredded; should have about 2 cups (optional)
• 1 cup grated or shredded carrots
• 1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions

Creamy Coleslaw Salad

Mix the dressing ingredients in a small bowl until well blended.

Toss cabbages, carrots and green onions together in a large glass bowl.

Mix in enough dressing to moisten the salad and toss until thoroughly incorporated. Chill for at least three hours or up to a day to blend flavors.

Croatia, Rovinj

We ended our visit to Slovenia and northern Croatia in the beautiful coastal town of Rovinj on the Istrian Peninsula. Istria is unique from the rest of Croatia, and its people have an independence and spirit all their own.

Rovinj

After World War I and the fall of the Habsburg Empire, unlike the rest of Croatia, Istria became part of Italy, not joining Yugoslavia until after World War II.

Across the Adriatic from Venice, Rovinj’s strong Italian influences shine through, particularly in its architecture and food. Pasta and risotto will appear on the dinner table next to fresh fish from the Adriatic, beef from local cattle and wines from nearby vineyards.

We stayed at a terrific B&B, Villa Dobravac, just outside the city center but within an easy walk to the water and to town. Our room was modern and large with a good sized bathroom and walk-in rain shower. As an extra bonus, we had a balcony with a lovely view of town. We could only stay one night and had an early ferry to Venice the next morning. Because we missed breakfast, they packed up a lunch bag filled with sandwiches, fruit and pastries for us to take with us … so very nice.

Church of St. Euphemia

Like Piran in Slovenia, the attractive hilly town is topped by an oversized bell tower. One of the prettiest towns from afar, Rovinj seems to have sprouted right up from the water like Venus from her shell. Also like Venus, she is beautiful and it is a joy to wander about her twisted streets and harbor promenades.

Charming Streets

The hilltop Church of St. Euphemia looks small compared to its 190-foot tall bell tower. Baroque in style, the church dates back to 1754 and is worth a visit, not only for the pretty interior, but the nice grounds and views.

The bell tower is a replica of Venice’s St. Mark’s tower. Those hardy (and crazy) enough to climb the rickety 192 wooden steps, are rewarded with magnificent vistas. For us, the views from the grounds were good enough.

The, narrow streets that wind down to the water are delightful with nooks and crannies, colorful paintings, fun shops and lots of whimsy.

Heading to the Water

The harbor is lined with cafés, restaurants and bars; some perched right on the rocks. The market, also near the water, is brimming with produce, treats and souvenirs.

We enjoyed lunch across the harbor from town with a great view of the boat-filled docks, the town and its bell tower; and that night we had a pleasurable seafood dinner on the water among the wave smacked rocks and shimmering lights.

Rovinj was delightful. There aren’t any real sites, the town is the draw and is a place to relax, enjoy, and soak up some of that wonderful Adriatic ambiance.

Croatia, Plitvice Lakes National Park

I had wanted to visit this park for a very long time and finally had the chance to check it off my bucket list.

Plitvice became the first national park of Croatia in 1949. It takes about two hours from Zagreb to get to the park. 

The park is the destination, there really isn’t anything else around the area of interest to tourists. But it is well worth anyone’s time to visit ... to sum it up, it is simply stunning.

We prefer exploring places on our own. Even on the odd occasion we take a mini-van tour, as we did to Lake Bled, it is really just for the transportation. On this trip though, we had a guide to take us through the park. It was well worth it as the park is crowded, huge, and can be a bit confusing.

The guide started us opposite from where most people begin their journey, going from the upper lakes to the lower, against the human traffic.

The hike was wonderful. Unfortunately, the lakes, as nature has a habit of doing, have changed over the years. The upper lakes have less water than they used to and many of the falls have dried up. We were there in September, after a dry summer, so none of the falls were as spectacular as the photos I've seen.

Even so, it was an absolutely lovely place to visit, hike and explore. The lakes are beautiful and the falls that did have water were pretty. There was a photo opportunity at every turn.

Try to avoid the worst of the crowds by going off season; late spring would be best when there is more rain and runoff from the mountains. Weekends are obviously the busiest times, so going midweek and early or later in the day would be better. Start at the top and work your way down so you are going against the flow rather than with the crowds. Good, hiking shoes are necessary as a lot of walking and a little climbing are involved.

Perhaps not quite as spectacular as we had hoped, and a lot more people, but definitely pretty, enjoyable and well worth a visit.

Croatia, Zagreb

Smitten by its charms, we really didn’t want to leave Ljubljana and the lovely, hospitable country of Slovenia, but we had to continue on our way. We were taking the GoOpti service for the third and final time of this trip.

The driver arrived early at our hotel with a couple of passengers already on board. We made a few more stops then, with a full van this time, we headed off to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Croatia is part of the EU but it is not a member of the Schengen Area countries, so we stopped along the highway on the border of Slovenia and Croatia to present our passports. Next stop was the Zagreb airport where everyone departed except us. It must be easier and/or less expensive to fly in and out of Zagreb than Ljubljana.

Statue of the Virgin Mary
Near the Cathedral

We were dropped off at Jelačića Square and walked to our hotel in the pedestrian area. For us, the GoOpti service was terrific, easily getting us from place to place faster and at prices comparable to public transportation (as long as you book early and are a bit flexible).

The main reason we choose to spend two nights in Zagreb was to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. It is also important, I think, to explore a country’s capital city to fully understand its heritage and its people.

Croatia has a long and often turbulent history. Most recently it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after World War I when it became part of Yugoslavia. It gained its independence in 1991 after a violent war with the Serbs. Croatia joined the EU in 2013; however, they do not currently use the Euro as their currency, keeping the Kuna (HRK) instead.

Like Budapest, the capital city of Zagreb began life as two towns separated by a river. The two walled medieval towns were Gradec and Kaptol. In 1850 the towns merged bringing with it a more prosperous time. The years under Hapsburg rule are evident in the lower city’s 18th- and 19th-century Austro-Hungarian architecture.

St. Mark’s Church

We started our walk in the old Upper Town. We took the stairs near our hotel, but there is also a funicular for those not wishing to climb. The Strossmayer Pormenade spans the hill with a nice view of the town below. There are a few museums in the upper town including the Museum of Broken Relationships, the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, and the Zagreb City Museum. The Town Hall is also located in the upper town.

St. Mark’s Square is dominated by the church of the same name which sports a colorful tiled roof. The original church was from the 13th-century, but what stands here today is from 1880. Nearby are the Sabor, or parliament, and Ban’s Palace, the offices of the prime minister. Heading away from the main part of the Upper Town is the Stone Gate, the only surviving town gate of Zagreb; unfortunately, the area was closed for construction when we were there.

Tkalčićeva Street

We found our way down to the pedestrian-friendly Tkalčićeva Street. What was once the river that divided the two original towns is now a delightful street lined with enticing shops and outdoor cafés. This was our favorite area of town and we enjoyed dinner here our last night.

The Lower Town’s main square, Ban Jelačić, is a beehive of activity. The car-free square, named after Josip Jelačić, a revered 19th-century governor, is a popular people watching spot and meeting point. A statue of Jelačić on horseback graces the square where festivals, concerts and protests may pop up at any time.

Zagreb Cathedral

Nearby, vendors come from all over Croatia to sell their products at Zagreb’s 2-tiered bustling marketplace. There has been some form of market operating here since the 1930s when market space was provided on the border between the Upper and Lower Towns. It is always fun to stroll through local markets, admiring the meat, cheese and produce displays; and perhaps picking up some flowers or a few tasty items for picnicking.

Following the Gothic, twin-spires we reached the Zagreb Cathedral. A church has stood here since at least 1094. The current Neo-Gothic church was completed in 1902.

We walked out of the town center to the park and museum district referred to as the Green Horseshoe. In addition to the museums (the Archeological Museum, Modern Gallery, Art Pavilion, Croatian State Archives, Ethnographic Museum and Museum of Arts and Crafts), the Botanical Garden is also housed within the park.

I’m glad we visited Zagreb, it is a nice and interesting city, but I can’t say it was a favorite. Perhaps had we not just come from Ljubljana we would have found it more appealing, but the comparison was striking in its size, spirit, attractiveness and its people.

Baked Salmon with Creamy Dill Sauce

Wild salmon is a very healthy choice for lunch or dinner, farm-raised, not so much. I always buy wild salmon and try to serve it at least once a week. If your grocery store fish department or local fish market doesn't carry the wild, it can usually be found in the freezer aisle, frozen in individually-sized servings and bagged.

As long as the fish is properly thawed, frozen fish or shellfish can actually be fresher than what is found at the store. It can be thawed when needed as opposed to having it 'thawed for your convenience.' Who knows how long thawed seafood has been hanging around in a display case.

I make the salmon many, many ways. This is perhaps the fastest and easiest way I make it, perfect for an impressive weeknight dinner, or even for a special occasion.

Baked Salmon with Creamy Dill Sauce
(Makes 6 servings.)

• 1 salmon filet (about 2 pounds)
• 1/2 cup fish or chicken stock
• 1 teaspoons lemon-pepper seasoning
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 6 lemon slices
• 1/4 cup butter, cubed
• Creamy Dill Sauce, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 400^oF.

Baked Salmon with Creamy Dill Sauce

Line a 15x10x1-inch baking pan with foil and grease lightly. Place salmon skin side down on foil.

Pour the stock over the salmon. Sprinkle salmon with the lemon pepper and salt then dot with the pieces of butter. Top with the lemon slices.

Bake the salmon until just cooked through, about 15 minutes.

While fish is baking, make the dill sauce.

Remove lemon slices and divide the salmon into 6 even portions, top with dill sauce and serve.



Creamy Dill Sauce
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon milk
• 1 teaspoon lemon-pepper seasoning
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dried dill weed
• 1 small ripe tomato, skinned, seeded and chopped

In a small bowl, mix the first 5 sauce ingredients until smooth. Add the chopped tomato and gently combine.

Upside-Down Pear Gingerbread Cake

I love pears, not only for snacking, but I use them in salads and baking. From pear muffins to this delicious upside-down cake, pears are as good in breakfast and dessert baked goods as apples, maybe better.

This cake has the lovely scent and flavor of gingerbread, good anytime, but especially warming in the cooler weather of fall and winter.

Upside-Down Pear Gingerbread Cake
(Serves 8.)

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 cup packed brown sugar
• 2 medium d'Anjou pears, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup 2% milk
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar
• 1 large egg
• 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
• 1/3 cup molasses
• 1/4 cup butter, melted
• 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• Whipped cream or ice cream, optional

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Upside-Down Pear Gingerbread Cake

In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat; stir in the brown sugar.

Spread the butter mixture over the bottom of a greased 9-inch round cake pan. Arrange pears over top.

Mix the milk and vinegar; let stand for 5 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat egg, brown sugar, molasses, melted butter and milk mixture until well blended.

In another bowl, whisk flour, cinnamon, baking soda, ginger, salt and cloves. Gradually beat the dry ingredients into the molasses mixture. Spoon carefully over the pears.

Bake 25-30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes before inverting onto a serving plate.

Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or ice cream, if desired.

Slovenia, Lake Bled and Surrounding Area

There were three places in Slovenia we were particularly interested in visiting; Piran, Ljubljana, and Lake Bled. With the first two checked off our list, we spent a long, wonderful day touring Lake Bled and the surrounding area.

Ponte Dei Cappuccini Bridge in Škofja Loka

We are not big on tours but sometimes they come in handy for traveling to places otherwise hard to reach without a car. We have found that the mini-van tours, accommodating only eight passengers, can be a fun and easy way to visit places that may otherwise be difficult to get to. It is also a good way to meet travelers from other countries.

We were picked up at our hotel and headed off toward Lake Bled. Our first stop was Škofja Loka; a quaint, castle-topped historical town located at the confluence of the Selska Sora and Poljanska rivers. The town can be traced back as far as 973 AD, and is considered to be the best preserved medieval center in Slovenia.

We headed toward the castle, passing rows of colorful window-box adorned buildings, and up the hill. The castle was originally built to protect the town that used to exist within its walls. It later became the governor's residence.

Radovna River in Vintgar Gorge

The town is worth a stop for a pleasant stroll, a castle visit, and the historical Ponte Dei Cappuccini bridge, a lovely spot to pause and take a few memorable pictures.

We continued on to Vintgar Gorge. This is a very pretty gorge carved from nature by the river Radovna. The whitewater and falls are picture perfect as you wind your way along the river for about a mile. The hike is level on boardwalks and bridges, but it is almost dangerously crowded and can be a bit slippery in spots. Definitely visit here in less busy times to better enjoy the experience. It was far too crowded on a Sunday in September.

Pristine Lake Bohinj

Our next stop was Lake Bohinj. This is a pristine and beautiful alpine lake with views of the Julian Alps. Unlike nearby Lake Bled, this is not a tourist attraction, but a lake for locals to relax and enjoy the day.

The water is crystal clear and there are plenty of activities for the whole family to enjoy including: a small village to explore: a waterfall to hike to; and a mountain cable car for enjoying panoramic views from Vogel Mountain. It is the perfect setting to slow down, enjoy a picnic, and take in the lake and incredible views.

View of Lake Bled from the Castle

On to our final stop and the pièce de résistance, Lake Bled. We started well above the lake at the cliff-hanging Bled Castle. There has been some form of castle here for 1000 years. Within the castle grounds are a few fun sites to explore including: an exhibit demonstrating how a Gutenberg printing press works; a small history museum; a pretty chapel; and a wine cellar. The best site though, and the main reason for visiting the castle, is the beautiful view of the lake and surrounding countryside.

With purple mountains as its backdrop, Lake Bled is a fairy tale kind of place with a romantic church-topped island in the middle of a beautiful glistening lake. It is possible to stroll or bike the 3.5-mile promenade around the lake; take a ride to the island in a Pletna boat; or enjoy a meal, a drink or a famous Bled cream cake (kremna rezina) at a lake-front café.

Impressive villas dot the parameter of the lake, including the Hotel Vila Bled, which was once a former residence of Marshal Tito. The hotel's inviting terrace restaurant welcomes visitors to relax with a drink or a bite to eat.

Pletna Boat

For those wanting to explore Bled Island and its church, Pletnas, handmade flat-bottom wooden boats, take tourists from the lake’s shore to the island's dock. Ninety-nine steps lead from the dock to the Baroque Church of the Assumption, and another ninety-one steps lead to the top of the bell tower.

The present church dates from the 17th century when it was once again renovated after a second earthquake damaged the structure. The main altar, with its gold-plated carvings, dates from 1747.

With our tour and visit to Lake Bled now over, we headed back for our last night in Ljubljana. We certainly enjoyed our day traveling to and around the lake, it was all breathtakingly beautiful. If I was to return, I would spend a night in Bled to be able to truly unwind and take advantage of all the lake has to offer.

The next day we were leaving Ljubljana and Slovenia to head to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. To say we loved Slovenia and were sad to leave would be an understatement. We found the countryside to be gorgeous, the towns charming, the people delightful and friendly … there wasn’t a thing we didn’t like. It is an easy, welcoming country to visit and we hope to return someday very soon.

Slovenia, Ljubljana

It was our final morning in Trieste and we were to meet the GoOpti car for a shared ride to our next destination, Ljubljana, Slovenia. Slovenia is a surprisingly easy country to maneuver around and feel comfortable in. It is part of the European Union and uses the Euro as its currency. It is also a Schengen area country, making for easy borderless movement between neighboring countries, except for Croatia which does not belong to the Schengen group.

Triple Bridge

Although we arrived early to our pickup point, our driver was already there with one passenger on board. There were no other pickups and in no time we arrived at our hotel, Hotel Cubo, right on the edge of Ljubljana’s old town.

A fast and easy check-in allowed us to drop off our bags and head to town, just a five minute walk away. We stopped by an outdoor café on Prešeren Square, by the famous Triple Bridge, for a cup of coffee and some people watching. It was Saturday and the town was bustling with activity.

Ljubljana is Slovenia's capital and biggest city. The large student population from its university gives the town a youthful exuberance. The pretty, café-lined Ljubljanica River divides the town, and a castle overlooks from above, making sure all is well. And all is well; the city is enticing with an infectious spirit. It quickly became one of our favorite European cities.

Greenery Abounds Along the River 

Architect, Jože Plečnik, is the town’s hero. He is responsible for literally redesigning this livable city from its unique buildings, to the market space and the aforementioned Triple Bridge.

Plečnik’s market runs along the river. It is where locals buy their food and tourists pick up trinkets. I always love to wander around local markets, checking out the produce, observing the interaction between vendors and their long-time customers, and enjoying a little taste of something new. We also observed people filling up their bottles from a milk dispenser, that’s something I had never seen before.

Ljubljana’s Cathedral

Culinary influences are many, reflecting the town’s location between Vienna and Venice. All the restaurants we visited had good food and service and the prices were reasonable for a capital city. Something we found particularly interesting was how common it was to hear the English language. Before we even spoke we were greeted in English, almost as if it was the native language. It certainly made for an easier and more comfortable visit.

Ljubljana’s cathedral is dedicated to St. Nicholas and has an unusual and intricately decorated entrance door, which was created for Pope John Paul II’s visit to the city in 1996. The interior is Italian Baroque, ornate with gold accents and it boasts a particularly pretty painted ceiling.

We hiked up to the castle, more like a modern replica these days than what would have originally been a Roman fortress centuries ago. The castle grounds and the panoramic views from atop the hill are more rewarding than the castle itself.

View from the Castle

The city has nice green spaces including the expansive Tivoli Park, which is a pleasant place to take a city break.

Along the way to the park sits the city's museum area which is home to the National Museum of Slovenia, and the Museum of Modern Art that houses 20th-century Slovene paintings and sculptures.

There are an abundance of things to see and do in this beautiful and unique city center, but the town itself is the main attraction. Strolling along the river bank, enjoying an outdoor café, people watching; that is what makes this place so very appealing. I could easily live here, it is a 'people's city' and a joy to visit.

Slovenia, Coastal Town of Piran

From Trieste we set off to Piran, Slovenia for the day. We were trying a car service, GoOpti, which was new to us, and we were a bit apprehensive. Our arranged private transfer pick-up time came and went. As we stood waiting outside the train station, our anxiety grew. Then the driver arrived, 20 or so minutes late and very apologetic, lots of traffic he said.

Tartini Square with Bell Tower

Relieved to be on our way and grateful we were not catching a plane or on a strict schedule, we enjoyed our ride through the hills, across the border, and to the completely charming town of Piran.

With a mix of upscale clothing stores and tourist gift shops to our right, and the beautiful blue Adriatic to our left, we headed along the main road from the bus depot toward the town center.

View of Piran from the Cathedral

Piran’s main square, Tartini Square, was named after composer and violinist, Giuseppe Tartini. His statue stands with a watchful eye guarding his namesake square. Prior to 1894, the large square was once part of the town’s harbor. Having become polluted and unpleasant, the harbor was filled in; eventually producing the relaxing and traffic-free oasis it is today. We immediately settled right in with the locals to enjoy a nice, rich cup of coffee on this overcast and damp day.

Piran's Harbor

From the square the Bell Tower of St George looms in the distance. We began to make our way up to the Cathedral to take a closer look. On the way we passed the oldest house on the square, named the Venetian House. Legend has it that a wealthy Venetian merchant fell in love with a local girl and built her this home. When tongues started wagging, he expressed his indifference by mounting a plaque with the words “lassa pur dir” (let them talk).

Dating from the 14th century, the Cathedral of St George dominates the hill top. It is a large church in proportion to the town’s size. The interior is decorated in Venetian Renaissance and Baroque style. Fairly simple as catholic cathedrals go, it has an impressive, beautifully painted ceiling. If in the mood for a bit of a climb, it is possible to hike up the 146 steps of the bell tower for a terrific view. If lazy, like us, the grassy church terrace also rewards with a lovely view over the town to the water.

Waterfront Promenade

Back down the hill the harbor beckons. Boats bob up and down as though politely introducing themselves. It is a very scenic place to stroll.

Continuing to walk along the waterfront promenade, passing walls of large rocks holding back the surf, every now and then we would come across a whimsical etching carved in a rock or a mermaid perched upon another. The stretch is lined with enticing cafes to stop and relax, have a drink or a bite to eat, and enjoy that beautiful sea view. We had no choice but to join in and have some lunch.

A Bit of Piran Whimsy

We made our way back to the bus depot, stopping by a little shop to purchase a pretty hand-made blouse I had seen earlier. We don’t normally buy many items when we travel, but this was not only pretty, but quite unique. A nice memento of our day in Piran.

This time, our GoOpti driver arrived early and getting back to Trieste was a snap.

The weather that day was a bit dreary, but in no way did it dampen our enjoyment of this exquisite little coastal town.

The next day we were leaving Italy to stay in another Slovenian town, the capital city of Lljubljana.

Travels in Italy, Trieste

I had been trying to plan a trip to Slovenia and Croatia for a few years, but kept putting it off. My hesitation was transportation, how would we travel around the two countries. Preferring not to be bothered with a car, and because of the great train systems throughout most of Europe, we usually travel by train from one town to another, even when crossing borders. But the train systems are limited in these areas; Croatia’s long coast line has no train service at all, only infrequent buses.

Trieste, Italy

Our first decision was to limit our visit to Slovenia and the northern part of Croatia, saving southern Croatia for another time. It is expensive flying into Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital, so we chose to fly into Trieste, Italy, which borders Slovenia. I had read about the town and was curious to see it, so beginning our trip there was perfect.

Arriving in Trieste, however, didn’t solve our ground transportation problem, but something else did. While doing research I came upon a shared car service called GoOpti. After further investigation, I took a leap of faith and booked the service for three trips.

With that out of the way, off we went.

Trieste's Harbor

Between its geographic location and its past, Trieste is unique among Italian cities. Dating back to perhaps the beginning of the Ice Age, it has a long, complicated history.

In most recent times, Trieste flourished as part of Austria, and later under the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918. In its day it was considered one of the most prosperous Mediterranean seaports. However, after World War I and the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Trieste was annexed to Italy. This led to a decline in its economic and cultural importance and the city lost its strategic and commercial influence.

The Second World War brought with it new struggles. Italy lost the war and Trieste was invaded by Tito's Yugoslavian troops. Thousands of Italians who spoke out against the Communist regime were incarcerated. They were eventually released, thanks to the intervention of Allied troops, and the city came under US military rule until 1954. It was then that Trieste was returned to Italy and became the administrative seat of Italy’s smallest province, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia.

Savoia Excelsior Palace

Back to the present day. Arrival in Trieste was easy; we took a train from the airport into town and had a short walk to our hotel, the Savoia Excelsior Palace. The hotel was lovely. The common spaces were beautifully appointed and our bedroom was spacious with a wonderful balcony and sea view. Best of all, the location was perfect. Everything was within an easy stroll.

We arrived early afternoon, which gave us time to tour the town. Our first stop was a visit to Eataly, a large Italian food emporium which is happily situated right at the water’s edge. The café portion of the marketplace faces the harbor. The huge window makes it feel as though you are sitting right on the water. We ordered some bruschetta and wine and enjoyed our little respite after the long, overnight journey from the States.

View from Eataly's Café

Now satiated and recharged, we set out for a walk through the pedestrian streets and squares and up toward the castle (Castello di San Giusto). As you roam about you see Trieste’s diverse history in its architecture. One moment you feel you could be could be in Vienna, the next Venice. The beautiful Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia is a grand square featuring the city hall as its main attraction. This is a perfect example of Trieste’s cultural mix, built by the Hapsburgs, but reminiscent of Venice’s St. Mark’s Square.

In addition to its architecture, the food is a mélange of tastes and cultures too. Austria meets the Mediterranean as locals are as at home ordering beer, stews and strudel as they are wine, pasta and biscotti. Fresh seafood from the Adriatic is also on the menu as are dishes prepared with Latin and Slavic influences.

Like Vienna, Trieste has a café and coffee culture. It seems like everyone is out enjoying the café scene. My two favorite coffees are Italian, Lavazza and Illy. Illy’s headquarters is in Trieste, so you know you’ll get a great cup when you join in and indulge in a coffee and pastry.

Piazza dell'Unita d'Italia and City Hall

As we continued through the pretty streets and squares, we meandered up to the castle. The castle stands atop the hill, next to Roman remains of the Forum and the Basilica. The castle itself is not particularly remarkable, but the views from the wall are spectacular and the nearby ruins are interesting to explore.

We had dinner at a nice trattoria specializing in seafood called Antica Ghiacceretta. The hotel neglected to make our reservation, but they happily accommodated us. We chose to sit outside as it was a perfect early September evening. The food was good, we split an octopus salad as our first course then followed up with a filet of branzino and a tuna steak as our main meals. Their wines were also good and were very reasonably priced. It was a nice end to our tiring two days of traveling and touring.

Trieste doesn’t have any blockbuster sites; it is a working town not a tourist destination. But it is a lovely jumping off point to visit Slovenia or other points in Italy such as Venice and the Veneto region. It is well worth a look for anyone visiting this part of Italy.

The next day we were using the GoOpti service for the first time, taking a side trip to another Adriatic port town, Piran, Slovenia, just a short ride away. We were keeping our fingers crossed that it would go well.