Croatia, Zagreb

Smitten by its charms, we really didn’t want to leave Ljubljana and the lovely, hospitable country of Slovenia, but we had to continue on our way. We were taking the GoOpti service for the third and final time of this trip.

The driver arrived early at our hotel with a couple of passengers already on board. We made a few more stops then, with a full van this time, we headed off to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Croatia is part of the EU but it is not a member of the Schengen Area countries, so we stopped along the highway on the border of Slovenia and Croatia to present our passports. Next stop was the Zagreb airport where everyone departed except us. It must be easier and/or less expensive to fly in and out of Zagreb than Ljubljana.

Statue of the Virgin Mary
Near the Cathedral

We were dropped off at Jelačića Square and walked to our hotel in the pedestrian area. For us, the GoOpti service was terrific, easily getting us from place to place faster and at prices comparable to public transportation (as long as you book early and are a bit flexible).

The main reason we choose to spend two nights in Zagreb was to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park. It is also important, I think, to explore a country’s capital city to fully understand its heritage and its people.

Croatia has a long and often turbulent history. Most recently it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until after World War I when it became part of Yugoslavia. It gained its independence in 1991 after a violent war with the Serbs. Croatia joined the EU in 2013; however, they do not currently use the Euro as their currency, keeping the Kuna (HRK) instead.

Like Budapest, the capital city of Zagreb began life as two towns separated by a river. The two walled medieval towns were Gradec and Kaptol. In 1850 the towns merged bringing with it a more prosperous time. The years under Hapsburg rule are evident in the lower city’s 18th- and 19th-century Austro-Hungarian architecture.

St. Mark’s Church

We started our walk in the old Upper Town. We took the stairs near our hotel, but there is also a funicular for those not wishing to climb. The Strossmayer Pormenade spans the hill with a nice view of the town below. There are a few museums in the upper town including the Museum of Broken Relationships, the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, and the Zagreb City Museum. The Town Hall is also located in the upper town.

St. Mark’s Square is dominated by the church of the same name which sports a colorful tiled roof. The original church was from the 13th-century, but what stands here today is from 1880. Nearby are the Sabor, or parliament, and Ban’s Palace, the offices of the prime minister. Heading away from the main part of the Upper Town is the Stone Gate, the only surviving town gate of Zagreb; unfortunately, the area was closed for construction when we were there.

Tkalčićeva Street

We found our way down to the pedestrian-friendly Tkalčićeva Street. What was once the river that divided the two original towns is now a delightful street lined with enticing shops and outdoor cafés. This was our favorite area of town and we enjoyed dinner here our last night.

The Lower Town’s main square, Ban Jelačić, is a beehive of activity. The car-free square, named after Josip Jelačić, a revered 19th-century governor, is a popular people watching spot and meeting point. A statue of Jelačić on horseback graces the square where festivals, concerts and protests may pop up at any time.

Zagreb Cathedral

Nearby, vendors come from all over Croatia to sell their products at Zagreb’s 2-tiered bustling marketplace. There has been some form of market operating here since the 1930s when market space was provided on the border between the Upper and Lower Towns. It is always fun to stroll through local markets, admiring the meat, cheese and produce displays; and perhaps picking up some flowers or a few tasty items for picnicking.

Following the Gothic, twin-spires we reached the Zagreb Cathedral. A church has stood here since at least 1094. The current Neo-Gothic church was completed in 1902.

We walked out of the town center to the park and museum district referred to as the Green Horseshoe. In addition to the museums (the Archeological Museum, Modern Gallery, Art Pavilion, Croatian State Archives, Ethnographic Museum and Museum of Arts and Crafts), the Botanical Garden is also housed within the park.

I’m glad we visited Zagreb, it is a nice and interesting city, but I can’t say it was a favorite. Perhaps had we not just come from Ljubljana we would have found it more appealing, but the comparison was striking in its size, spirit, attractiveness and its people.