Travels in Spain, Seville

We very much enjoy traveling around Spain, but there are a couple of cities that we have found particularly inviting. Seville is one of them. It is a beautiful, welcoming city with many things to do and places to see, including interesting and easy side trips.

Houses of the Barrio Santa Cruz

We flew into Seville, grabbed the convenient Especial Aeropuerto (EA) bus into town and walked to the Hotel Alminar, a small, friendly hotel right in the old town center near the cathedral.

Filled with nice shops, good restaurants and tapas bars, Seville’s old quarter, the Barrio Santa Cruz, is made for lingering or for just a delightful stroll. The shady plazas, tiled patios, narrow lanes, and whitewashed homes laden with colorful flower boxes all combine to create an idyllic setting, perfect for getting lost.

The Plaza de la Virgen de los Reyes, impressive any time of day or night, is a beehive of activity framed by a dramatic backdrop of the cathedral, bell tower and Archbiship’s Palace. Most of the important sites are right here.

The Cathedral of Seville is the largest Gothic church in the world and the third-largest church in Europe (only St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London are bigger). Completed in 1528, the cathedral, as is the case in much of Europe, sits upon the site of a former mosque. The massive nave is 137 by 90 yards, about the size of a city block. The magnificent high altar is comprised of an 80-foot gold wall adorned with statues. It is the largest altarpiece ever made.

View from the Giralda Bell Tower

The Giralda Bell Tower is covered by the cathedral’s entrance ticket. As the tower rises, so does its history. The base consists of blocks from ancient Rome, the middle section was made from bricks by the Moors, and the tower was rebuilt during the Christian era in the 1550s. From the top there are wonderful views of the cathedral spires, its courtyard of orange trees and the city.

Other churches are worth a visit as well including the Church of the Savior. The Baroque structure dates from about 1700 and also replaced an ancient mosque that once stood on the same spot. Many of its chapel statues are set atop floats for the Holy Week processions. The favorite statue in all of Seville, however, resides in the Basílica de la Macarena, the doll-like Weeping Virgin.

Royal Alcázar

One place is worth a visit to Seville alone, the Royal Alcázar, one of the oldest European royal palaces that is still in use today. Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987, the palace is a marvelous example of the combined influences of Mudéjar and Christian architecture.

The site, which was originally developed as a fort in 913, has been modified many times over its 11 centuries. In the 14th century, King Pedro added the sumptuous Palacio de Don Pedro. The palace and grounds are exquisite and deserve a leisurely visit. It is best to buy tickets ahead online and go early in the morning.

The Plaza de España is located in the Parque de María Luisa. The monument was built as the centerpiece for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929. Surrounding the main building are 48 small pavilions, each one dedicated to a province of Spain and decorated in illustrated ceramic tiles (azulejos) depicting historic scenes and maps.

Plaza de España

The lovely park surrounding the monument was inspired by Moorish architecture and is laden with fountains, ponds, orange and palm trees, and flower beds.

Across the river is Seville’s Triana neighborhood. It is a delightful place to wander away from the crowds of downtown, visit the market that sits among the ruins of a 12th century castle, and perhaps enjoy a drink or meal at the river's edge.

Two polar opposite activities, bullfighting and flamenco, are both popular and serious business in Seville. As a spectator or participant, the evening paseo, or stroll, is a free and enjoyable way to while away a few hours in the evening before dinner.

Next post, a few places to visit outside of seductive Seville.