Flounder with Crab Stuffing

Not being a lover of ham, and hosting 10 for Easter dinner, I decided to make this delicious fish for dinner. It is impressive, yet easy, and can be prepared in advance to throw in the oven whenever you are ready.

The delicate, succulent crab stuffing brings a filet of flounder or sole to a whole other level.

Flounder with Crab Stuffing
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 2 tablespoons minced shallots
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste

4 (4-oz) flounder or sole fillets, skinned
4 ounces jumbo lump crab meat (1 cup), picked through for shell
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 tablespoon butter

Preheat oven to 400°F.


Flounder with Crab Stuffing

Combine shallots, lemon juice and white wine vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to boil and continue to boil until liquid has reduced to 1 teaspoon, about 5 minutes. Add cream and thyme, simmer until thickened to sauce consistency, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Put aside 1 1/2 tablespoons of crab. Gently mix remaining crab, 2 tablespoons of the cream sauce and 1 tablespoon of parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Lay flounder fillets flat with darker side (skin side) up and season with salt and pepper. Divide stuffing among fillets, mounding on thicker half of each. Fold thinner half of fillet over stuffing, tucking end under to form a packet.

Arrange stuffed fillets in a lightly oiled shallow baking dish. Divide butter into four pieces and top each packet with a piece. Bake until just cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Reheat the sauce and divide among 4 plates. Top with a flounder packet. Sprinkle remaining crab over packets followed by remaining tablespoon of parsley. Serve immediately.

Travels in Switzerland: Zurich, Lugano, Basel

Dating back to prehistoric times, present day Zürich is Switzerland’s largest and most cosmopolitan city and is a global banking and finance center. The city lies at the north end of Lake Zürich in northern Switzerland. In addition to its busy international airport, Zürich is a great railway transportation hub with trains leading to all points within the country and throughout Europe.

Zurich

We walked from the train station to the Marriott Zürich Hotel, our home for the night. It was early afternoon and we were leaving the next morning for Italy, so with little time we kept our touring to the old town and the lake … all within an easy walk from the hotel.

At the time we were there a lot of construction and digging up of roads was taking place, making our walk to the Altstadt (Old Town) a little more difficult. Once there we found picturesque, pre-medieval lanes running along the Limmat River. We wandered around, admiring the shops and old buildings, then settled along the pretty riverfront for a bite to eat and a glass of wine.

Refreshed, we headed off to Lake Zürich for an hour and a half boat tour around the lake. Not quite as dramatic as the scenery around Lake Lucerne, it was still a pretty and pleasant way to spend a late afternoon.

Lugano's Bustling Piazza della Riforma

We didn’t have the time to spend in modern Zürich, but we enjoyed the old town and the lake area and were glad we decided to spend a night there. Our trip to Switzerland came to an end the next morning as we headed to Lake Como via the Zürich to Milan train line.

On a previous visit to Lake Como we took a side trip to Lugano, Switzerland by bus from the town of Menaggio. Lugano sits on a glacial lake of the same name, surrounded by mountains, in southern Switzerland’s Italian-speaking Ticino region.

The lake itself resides part in Switzerland and part in Italy. The Swiss-Mediterranean culture is evident in the architecture, culture and cuisine of Lugano and the region of Ticino.

Lake Lugano

Having been to many of the charming towns of the Italian lakes of Como, Garda, Maggiore, and Iseo; I was expecting Lugano to be similar. It is, in fact, quite different as it is a larger city filled with offices, banks and high-end stores. The old town, bordering the lake, is the nicest part of the city.

The main hub of activity, Piazza della Riforma, is ringed with geranium-covered, pastel, neoclassical buildings, including the municipio (city hall). The square is lined with busy outdoor cafés and plays host to the local market and a variety of festivals throughout the year.

A short stroll down Via Canova takes visitors to the manicured city park and lake shore promenade. The park is lush with trees from around the world, colorful flower beds, and art sculptures. The lovely promenade is perfect for a pleasant long walk along the water’s edge, passing by boat docks, graceful floating swans, and a whale of a tail sculpture.

Abundance of Flowers Along Lake Lugano

We stopped for lunch at La Tinera, a cozy restaurant located in an old wine cellar. Full of atmosphere with its red tiled floor, walls laden with wine bottles, and heavy wooden tables and chairs; we found the service to be attentive and our meals enjoyable. I thought that the mushroom risotto was particularly good … creamy and delicious. Portions were generous and the prices were fair.

On another side trip, this time from Colmar, France, we visited the Swiss town of Basel. Basel is Switzerland’s third largest city and sits on the Rhine River in northwest Switzerland bordering both France and Germany. It is an easy trip from other points within Switzerland as well as towns in eastern France and southwest Germany.

Usually a sunny part of the country, we hit a wet spring day for our walk around town, making everything appear to be a bit drab. Basel’s setting isn’t as dramatic as some other Swiss towns … no showy mountain peaks or alpine lakes. Cut by the river and hilly in places, it feels a little like the capital city of Bern.

 Rhine River in Basel

For lovers of culture and fine art, the city offers a vast selection of some 40 museums to enjoy. Twenty kilometers east along the river sits the Roman settlement of Augusta Raurica, an archaeological site and open-air museum.

The center of the medieval old town is the busy Marktplatz, which is dominated by the 16th-century, red-sandstone Town Hall. At its base, market stalls appear with vendors selling their fresh fruits, vegetables, and flowers to their loyal patrons.

The original Basel cathedral was destroyed by an earthquake in 1356 and was rebuilt in the Romanesque and Gothic styles. Typical of Swiss Cathedrals, it turned protestant during the reformation.

Town Hall and Markets in Basel's Markplatz

For the kids, the city has a nice zoo with a wide variety of animals and a children’s zoo.

Switzerland is indeed an incredibly beautiful country offering something for everyone, especially sports enthusiasts who love mountain and water sports. Everything is tidy, clean and efficient; like a Swiss knife or watch.

As pretty as the country is … and as nice as the towns are … there seems to be something missing. I loved our visit and was happy to see so much in a relatively short period of time, but I think, for me, what it lacks is a little of the ‘joie de vivre’ that its neighbors in Italy and France enjoy. Maybe I’m into the more rustic charm with a little grittiness thrown in for good measure, I don’t know, but the Mediterranean countries beckon more to my spirit.

Travels in Switzerland: Lausanne and Montreux on Lake Geneva

We got an early start for our day trip to Lake Geneva. Leaving from our base in Lucerne, we used our Swiss Travel Pass to take the train to the town of Lausanne.

Lausanne's Waterfront

Lausanne sits peacefully on the shores of Lake Geneva in the French-speaking region of Vaud. The town has been home to the International Olympic Committee since 1915. The Olympic Museum, which traces the history of the Olympic Games, and the Olympic Park are located along the pretty lakefront area called Ouchy. The Ouchy lakefront is a fine place to walk along the water, admire the boats bobbing and weaving about, or enjoy a picnic lunch.

Above the lake lies the hilly, multi-tiered city center and medieval old town. Métro line M2 takes passengers from Ouchy, by the lake, uphill to the SBB railway station and further up to the city center (Flon).

The upper town features an imposing cathedral, which is the largest church in Switzerland. Consecrated in October of 1275, the church was originally dedicated to Mary and was lavishly decorated. It became a protestant cathedral in 1536 and was stripped of its ornamentation. A rose window is the only original stained glass left. From the cathedral’s esplanade visitors can enjoy an expansive view toward the French Alps.

Lausanne

Near the cathedral the old bishop’s residence houses the City History Museum, which covers the town’s past from Roman times to the present. I generally find that local city history museums are interesting and worth a visit. A different kind of museum, the Collection de l’Art Brut, showcases works created by non-trained artists. Jean Dubuffet collected the often ridiculed and primitive pieces and later donated the collection to the city.

The Place St-François is the commercial center of Lausanne. Dating from 1272, the Church of St. Francis dominates the busy square. The church was once the center of a Franciscan monastery, but today it is a Protestant parish church. Like the cathedral, it was also stripped of its finery during the Reformation.

Lausanne’s castle has a terrace that offers visitors a nice view, but the castle itself is closed to the public. Dining choices are plentiful in town as are boutiques for shopping.

Montreux Whimsy

After touring the town and waterfront, we took a boat to the town of Montreux. Montreux is a traditional lake resort town known for its jazz festival, which happened to be going on at the time of our visit. The lakeside promenade is lined with flowers, sculptures, trees, ice cream shops and Belle Époque buildings. There isn’t much to do or see in Montreux other than the lake front. It is simply a lazy resort. Offshore is a medieval island castle, Château de Chillon, boasting ramparts, stunning halls and a chapel with 14th-century murals.

We took the train back to Lausanne and returned to Lucerne from there. It was a long but very doable day trip. Our two days worth of travels reinforced our decision to make Lucerne our home base. It was our favorite town with good transportation and lots to see and do. The smaller Murten was also a favorite, but not as convenient by train.

It was our last night in Lucerne. The next day we were heading to Zürich for a quick overnight visit before leaving Switzerland for nearby Italy.

Travels in Switzerland: Interlaken, Bern, Murten

We had previously been to Lugano as a side trip from Lake Como and to Basel as a side trip from Colmar, France; so on this trip we wanted to concentrate on visiting some other towns within Switzerland from our Lucerne base.

Interlaken

We got an early start and decided to make Interlaken our first stop of the day. To say the scenery from Lucerne to Interlaken was breathtaking is an understatement. We’ve been to a lot of beautiful places on our journeys throughout the US and Europe, but traveling up and through the majestic snow-capped mountains dotted with numerous glistening lakes and quaint villages was picture postcard beautiful.

Interlaken appears to be more of a jumping off point to areas further up into the mountains rather than a place to linger for long. It is a pretty, but small, resort town. Of most interest to visitors are the lake activities, mountain hiking and winter fun. We admired the meadows leading to the soaring alpine peaks, the cute buildings, the river and the lake. We strolled from one end of town to the other, stopped for a coffee, and went on our way to our next destination, Bern.

Bern

Bern is the capital of Switzerland. Founded in 1191, it is a quiet city extending along the Aare River. All around town flags displaying Bern’s mascot, a roaring bear, fly proudly. Live bears even roam a section of river bank, a most unusual urban site.

The busy train station is a major transfer point and houses shops and a tourist information center. Day trippers can safely store their baggage in lockers if stopping by for a quick visit. Walking from the station to Bear Park is a pleasant way to experience the city. The main drag, Spitalgasse, runs the length of town, although its name changes a few times along the way.

Bern’s Clock Tower

Bern is known for its eleven historical and colorful fountains which were commissioned, in part, to brighten up the city comprised of rather dull sandstone structures. One of the fountains sits outside near the station. 

Spitalgasse goes under the prison tower, which was used as a prison until 1897. Further down, Bern’s clock tower marks what was once the first gate into the city along the original town wall. The clock dates back to 1530 and puts on a little performance four minutes prior to each hour.

The 15th-century Bern Cathedral was once a more ornate catholic church. Converted to a Protestant church, it was stripped of its opulence in 1528 during the Reformation and now houses a quite plain interior. The 330 foot tower atop the cathedral is the tallest in Switzerland. For a fee a spiral staircase takes visitors up to the tower viewpoint.

 Aare River

Bern has some good museums scattered about town. Albert Einstein spent time in Bern while working on his theory of relativity. His apartment is now the Einstein House museum and a second, more interesting, Einstein Museum is housed on the second floor of the Historical Museum. The Museum of Fine Arts features 800 years worth of works by Swiss artists. The Paul Klee Center celebrates the work of Swiss-born Klee as well as showcasing performing arts and a creative workshop for children.

One unusual attraction is the Berner Swim. Visitors can join the local humans and fish for a rapid float down the Aare River. Swimmers hike up stream and wade in to join the fun. Common sense and cautiousness should prevail; apparently it is not quite as easy as it looks given the swift river current, only strong swimmers should give it a try.

Unusual City Dweller

As the walk through town comes to an end, a river bridge provides excellent views. On a nice, warm day it is possible to see the river swimmers zip under the bridge and out of sight. Across the bridge is Bear Park. Bears have been living here since 1857. They used to live in concrete pits but are now free to roam, swim and fish along the river in an enclosed area. Further up the hill lies a café and a nice area to relax and take in a scenic city view.

We stopped by Lorenzini Ristorante for a very nice lunch. They had a few outdoor tables and we were lucky enough to get one as it was a lovely day to dine al fresco. We both ordered the insalata mare (seafood salad) and found it absolutely delicious. It was a great little find off the busy main street.

Murten

As long as we were close by, we decided to hop back on the train to visit the small town of Murten. Murten just might be the most charismatic town in Switzerland. It oozes with personality from the fine ramparts that surround the town, to the sweet café and boutique-lined streets, to the castle, lake and nearby vineyards.

A five-minute walk is all it takes to get from the train station to the old town center. We started by strolling about the picturesque alleyways of the medieval old town then headed up to walk the ramparts and to enjoy a bird’s perspective of the town and surrounding countryside.

The town has a lovely lakeside promenade and offers a wide range of tour boats, water sports, and activities. Like Lucerne, Murten would make a pleasant base for touring the rest of Switzerland, especially with a car.

We ended our day with a final train ride back to Lucerne. The next day we were heading east to Lausanne on Lake Geneva.

Travels in Switzerland: Lucerne

Switzerland is a gorgeous country and, lucky for the traveler who wants to see everything, it is small enough to easily cover in a relatively short period of time.

Lucerne

Switzerland is not part of the European Union, but it is a Schengen area country. The Swiss Franc is the country’s currency. The various geographic locations and proximity to neighboring countries make the regions of landlocked Switzerland quite culturally diverse. Three major languages are spoken within the country; Zurich, Basel, Bern, Interlaken and Lucerne are German-speaking cities; Geneva and Lausanne French-speaking; and Bellinzona, Lucarno and Lugano Italian-speaking. A fourth language, Romansh, is spoken in the southeastern mountain area that includes St. Moritz.

Two busy international airports bookend the country with Geneva to the west and Zürich to the northeast. The Swiss train system is excellent, albeit expensive. For those wishing to visit a number of towns without a car, a Swiss Travel Pass can be an excellent investment. The pass covers unlimited travel by train, bus and boat; travel on premium panorama trains (seat reservation fees and/or surcharges may apply to panorama trains and some boats); unlimited use of public transportation in more than 90 towns and cities; and free admission to more than 500 museums.

Lucerne

We purchased consecutive four-day travel passes and a travel promotion gave us a fifth day for free. It was expensive, but I had added up all the transportation costs we would have incurred and found that just those tickets alone would have been more than the passes. Being able to hop on and off of trains, boats and buses at will rather than adhering to strict reservations or waiting in line to purchase tickets was a wonderfully liberating way to travel.

Switzerland is brimming with soaring mountains, alpine lakes, grassy farmlands, small villages and bustling cities. Using Lucerne as our base, we took the train for day trips all over the country and enjoyed beautiful vistas as we traveled near and far with ease.

Chapel Bridge

On our first day we flew into Zürich and caught a train to Lucerne from the airport’s train station. We stayed at the small and comfortable Renaissance Lucerne. The hotel is convenient for its close proximity to the train station, that we used daily, and the iconic Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke) that spans the river to the old town.

We started by wandering across the Chapel Bridge to explore the town. Chapel Bridge is a symbol of Lucerne and is the town’s most well-known and popular tourist attraction. Named after the nearby St. Peter's Chapel, the covered wooden footbridge diagonally spans the River Reuss. Looking up, while meandering across, gives visitors an art show of paintings that date back to the 17th century. Unfortunately many of the paintings were destroyed, along with a large portion of the centuries-old bridge, in a 1993 fire. Subsequently restored, it is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe as well as the world's oldest truss bridge.

Decorative Facades

Tired from our overnight trip from the States, and in need of some lunch, the picturesque cafés lining the river beckoned to us. Chances were that we would be trading a good meal for riverfront dining if we answered their call. Dining establishments located in prime locations often offer mediocre food at high prices, but sometimes atmosphere wins out. The food wasn’t great, but the view was stunning and it was a marvelous little respite.

After strolling down the charming lanes of the old town and admiring the decorative buildings, fountains and squares, we headed toward the Lion Monument, another popular symbol of Lucerne.

Lion Monument

The Lion Monument is a memorial to the Swiss Guard who were massacred in 1792 during the French Revolution. Carved from a sandstone rock above a reflecting pond, the monument depicts a giant lion as he lies dying in his lair. His paw lies upon a shield; tears are running from his pain-filled eyes and the broken end of a spear is protruding from his side. Above the lion inscribed are the words "To the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss." If it’s not overrun with tourists, it is a moving place to take some time to reflect and ponder Europe’s long, and often violent, history and the too many souls lost to battle.

On Lake Lucerne

A park and promenade along the lake takes visitors on a lovely lakefront walk. There are a number of different kinds of boats available to those who want to get out and see more of the lake and the surrounding majestic mountains.

We checked in with the woman at the boat ticket kiosk to pick up schedules and to find out which boats were covered by our Swiss Travel Pass. We hopped on a boat that acts as a kind of floating shuttle with stops at a few points around the lake. The scenery is magnificent with layers of towering mountains serving as a backdrop to the crystal clear water of the lake.

For more pretty vistas, a hike up to the medieval city ramparts and towers rewards visitors with expansive views of the town, lake and mountains.

View of Town, Lake and Mountains from the Ramparts.

There are a number of museums in Lucerne. The Rosengart Collection was amassed by an individual, Siegfried Rosengart, and houses art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries; particularly plentiful are works from Picasso and Klee. Both my husband and I enjoy transportation museums and Lucerne has a large one, the Swiss Transport Museum. Other museums include the Depot History Museum, Richard Wagner Museum, Luzern Museum of Art, and the Museum of Natural History.

It is amazing how much can be done in a relatively short period of time in this city. Most of the sites are within a compact, easily walkable area. The next day we were heading off by train to explore some of the other towns in the central part of Swizerland.

Trout Almondine

Trout is an incredibly tasty fish on its own ... light, yet meaty in texture. Add almonds, butter and lemon and you have an incredible special treat.

This is a very quick dish to make and very satisfying. Serve it along with some rice and French style green beans for a lovely weekday or special occasion meal.

Trout Almondine
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 4 trout fillets, about 1 1/2 pounds total
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 1/4 cup sliced almonds
• 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• Juice from 1 lemon
• 1/4 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Trout Almondine

Make sure trout filets are completely deboned. Place them on a plate and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Heat a large fry pan over medium-low heat. Add the almonds and toast, stirring frequently, until they turn light tan and smell nutty, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Return the pan to medium-low heat. Spread the flour on a large plate and dip the fillets in the flour, coating both sides well and shaking off any excess. Add the olive oil to the pan and increase the heat to medium. Add the trout fillets, skin side up, and cook until browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the fillets over and cook until they flake easily near the tail ends, about 2 minutes more. Transfer the fillets, skin side down, to individual plates and keep warm.

Wipe any oil from the pan with a paper towel. Return the pan to medium heat and add the butter. When the butter has melted, add the lemon juice and parsley. Stir in the almonds and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the fillets and serve immediately.

White Bean Dip

It is hard to beat a good, authentic humus. We have a really good local place that makes the best I've had. But when making a bean dip at home, I like this one. The preparation is quick and easy, it is lighter, and the lemon juice adds a nice brightness. To me, the mild flavor is more pleasant than some humus that I have had.

White Bean Dip
(Makes 6 servings.) 

• 1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 garlic clove
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/3 cup olive oil, plus 4 tablespoons
• 1/4 cup (loosely packed) fresh Italian parsley leaves
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 6 pitas
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano

Preheat the oven to 400^oF.

White Bean Dip

Place the beans, garlic, lemon juice, 1/3 cup olive oil, and parsley in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is coarsely chopped. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the bean puree to a small bowl.

Cut each pita in half and then into 8 wedges. Arrange the pita wedges on a large baking sheet. Pour the remaining oil over the pitas. Toss and spread out the wedges evenly. Sprinkle with the oregano, salt, and pepper.

Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until toasted and golden in color. 

Serve with chips or the pita toasts warm or at room temperature alongside the bean puree.

Eggplant Parmigiana

I love eggplant and enjoy it just about any way. This is an easy and tasty version of Eggplant Parmigiana. Like many of these recipes, it can be easily made gluten-free by substituting a GF flour blend for the regular flour.

Eggplant Parmigiana
(Makes 6 servings.)

• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 cup chopped onions
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 4 cups drained and chopped plum tomatoes, fresh or canned
• 1/2 teaspoons chopped basil
• Salt and pepper to taste

• 1/4 cup flour (use a gluten-free flour blend for a GF dish)
• 2 whole eggs, beaten
• 1 large or 2 small eggplants, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch slices

• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1/2 cup sliced or grated fresh mozzarella cheese

Preheat oven to 350^oF.

Eggplant Parmigiana

Heat 2 tablespoons of the extra virgin olive oil in a heavy sauté pan, add the onion and sauté until the onions are transparent. Add the garlic and continue to cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally until of sauce consistency, about 20 minutes.

Whisk together the flour, eggs and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Dip the eggplant slices in the batter and fry in the remaining oil until light brown on both sides.

Place alternate layers of eggplant, sauce and cheeses in a large casserole dish.

Bake 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, cut and serve.

Travels in Spain, Side Trips from Seville … White Hill Towns, Cadiz, Cordoba

The White Hill Towns of Andalucía are stunning, but a little difficult to visit without a car. While we usually travel and get along well by using public transportation, there are times when it makes sense to join a small tour or hire a guide.

White Hill Towns of Andalucía 

For our day exploring the white hill towns, we had a driver and guide, making the journey very easy. It was a long, but wonderful, day of expansive vistas and lovely towns.

The most well-known of the towns are Ronda, Arcos de la Frontera, Grazalema, and Zahara. As they sit perched on their hills, from afar the whitewashed towns have the appearance of snow-capped mountains.

There aren’t any true blockbuster sites in the hill towns, the enjoyment lies in their history and charm. Wandering the narrow alleys, peeking into colorful courtyards, visiting historic churches and having a coffee in a welcoming square are the 'sites' people come to enjoy.

Spanning the Gorge in Ronda

My favorite of the towns was Ronda. Sitting high above a steep 300-foot gorge, Ronda is divided into two areas, the old Moorish and the ‘modern,’ which was built after the reconquest in 1485. What were once two separate towns, they were joined by a bridge in the late 1700s. There are a few sites to explore here including one of the oldest bullrings in Spain (built in 1785). The most impressive sites, however, are the town itself, the bridge and gorge. It is a fun place to explore, relax and enjoy some tapas under a big umbrella.

Another day we hopped a train from Seville for a side trip to the ancient port city of Cádiz. Founded by the Phoenicians around 1100 BC, Cádiz is considered to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe.

Cádiz

The port’s heyday was during the 16th century when it was used as a base for exploration and trade. It has been home to the Spanish Navy since the 18th century.

The historic town has some nice landmarks including an interesting cathedral, a theater, an old municipal building, an 18th-century watchtower, and an ancient Roman theater.

Cádiz Charm

Like all these Andalusian towns, the old town is characterized by busy plazas connected by narrow café-lined streets with iron grills and colorful flower pots hanging from above. Fountains, green spaces, fine buildings, ancient city walls, the sea and its beaches all add to the ambiance. It is a delightful place to spend a day or a few.

I would have liked to visit Jerez, but we didn't have the time. It is good, however, to leave something on the table, to have a reason to return. On the same train line as Cádiz, Jerez is famous for its sherry and the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. People with a love of horses can enjoy a choreographed performance by these graceful and magnificent beasts. Sampling the sherry produced here is another popular sport. It is possible to have a taste, take a class or join a tour to learn about the fine art of sherry making.

The Mezquita

Córdoba has an interesting Roman and Moorish past, having once served as a regional capital for both empires. We stayed here for two nights at a lovely boutique hotel called the Balcón de Córdoba in the old part of town.

The old town surrounds the main attraction, the Mezquita. It feels more touristy than the other historic town centers with its abundance of semi-tacky souvenir shops lining the streets outside the old mosque. That aside, the city is nice with its modern main part of town and its old town with the Guadalquivir River running through it.

The real gem of Córdoba is a magnificent one. The Mezquita is a huge former mosque with a full-sized 16th-century cathedral standing within its walls. I’ve never seen or felt anything like it and it is difficult to explain. The over 800 columns and arches somehow make this enormous structure seem inviting, it draws you in, it is mesmerizing and is hard to leave.

A Cathedral Within a Mosque

Then there is the cathedral. It is normal to visit cathedrals sitting atop the footprint of a former mosque, but to have one within a mosque? The juxtaposition of a Catholic church within a mosque is something to behold and to ponder.

It is worth visiting Córdoba for the Mezquita alone, even if only on a day trip or a stop on the way from one place to another.

The city has an Alcázar, but it is not of the same caliber as Seville’s Alcázar and is not really worth the time. There is a horse show, but again, a poor imitation of the grand performances held elsewhere.

From Málaga to Marbella to Granada to Córdoba to Seville to the white hill towns and the beaches; Andalucía is an incredibly diverse region full of history and beauty.

I would recommend spending enough time in Andalucía to enjoy as many places as possible ... at a minimum stay in Granada and Seville and pick a good beach town to slow down. See the sites, wander the alleyways, relax at the shore, sample new foods and make lots of memories.