Travels in Germany - Munich

I had passed through Germany a few times but had never stayed the night or vacationed there. As a high schooler on a summer foreign study program a fellow student and I had spontaneously hopped a bus from Salzburg, Austria to visit Berchtesgaden for a day, but that was the extent of any time spent there. 

Germany was low on my bucket list of places to visit. My reasons were perhaps colored by the country’s dark history during two world wars. But having read articles and viewed videos about the romantic road and the Rhine River Valley, I found myself a bit enchanted and decided it was time to take a look. 

Munich's New Town Hall

For our intro to Germany we left Salzburg, Austria, where we had begun our trip, and headed by train to Munich. We then ventured on to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a fairytale of a town along the romantic road, and then on to the Rhine River Valley. Although I have made what seems like a million flight connections through Munich (München in German), the opportunity to explore the city had not previously presented itself. On this trip, we decided to spend a day and night here. 

Even if plans don’t include an overnight in Munich as ours did, it is easy to spend a day. My preferred method of transportation in Europe has always been the great train system found within most countries. Frequent trains run to and from Munich airport as well as towns near and far. Germany’s regional 1-day passes are a great bargain for groups of two or more. The Bavaria pass allows travel, not only within the large region of Bavaria, but to Salzburg, Austria as well.

Glockenspiel

The Munich train station (München Hauptbahnhof) is a modern and lively hub of activity with all the amenities a traveler could ask for including clean rest rooms, a food court, lockers to store bags, an information point, and bike and car rentals. Subways (underground U-Bahn and commuter S-Bahn trains), trams and buses fan out from the station, but it is an easy walk to the old town. 

There is an information point in front of the train station as well as under the glockenspiel in the main square of Marienplatz. Visitors can pick up maps and brochures and find information on transportation, tourist sites, discount cards, tours and bike rentals. Once armed with information, it is often better to book directly with the service operators for the best availability and prices.

Rebuilt after having been partially destroyed in WWII, Munich rose from its ashes in the same style as before ... elegant and majestic, unlike Frankfurt that was rebuilt in a “Manhattan” style of soulless skyscrapers. In preparation for the 1972 Olympics, much of the city’s center was pedestrianized creating a welcoming and pleasant Old Town to stroll and enjoy.

Almost all larger European cities have hop on and off tour buses. Munich is no exception. Yes, the buses are touristy but, for those with limited time or who would like to get an overall layout of the city before deciding what sites to visit, they can provide a visitor with a good introduction.

Mix of Old & New

Historical, impressive and crowded, Marienplatz (Mary’s Square) marks the center of the old town. Most of the city’s key sites are within a short stroll from the square. Because of its pedestrian-friendly streets and the compactness of the town center, the core of this large and highly populated city has an almost small town feel about it.

Dating back centuries, Marienplatz was a bustling market place and public forum. Today the massive New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus), with its towering 280-foot spire and glockenspiel, lines the entire north side of the square. To the east lies the Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus). The Allies bombed Marienplatz, along with much of Munich, during WWII. The New Town Hall, which dates back to the late 1800s, was spared the bombs and became the US military’s headquarters after the Americans occupied the city in 1945. The Old Town Hall is actually the more modern of the two, having been completely destroyed and rebuilt after the war.

The nearby St. Peter’s Church is the oldest church in Munich. It dates from 1386 replacing the original monastery that once stood on the same spot. Visitors are welcome to visit the church, but those wishing to climb the 306 steps up the spire must pay a nominal fee.

Viktualienmarkt

Built in the late 1500s by the Jesuits, St. Michael’s Church stands tall and boasts a beautiful ornate Baroque interior. The choir, loved by locals, benefits from the church’s excellent acoustics as their songs drift down from high in the organ loft to the parishioners below.

For a browse among produce-laden carts or to enjoy a beer break or a bite to eat, the Viktualienmarkt provides ample opportunity to sample local treats. By keeping rents low and banning fast-food chains, the city protects its beloved market, which also includes a large beer garden and a colorful maypole.

If you're tired of German food and your tastes wander toward Italian, the huge Eataly is just down the road. Or to wander the aisles of the most beautiful and expensive gourmet deli imaginable, the Dallmayr Delicatessen is a must if only to stop and drool over the marvelous displays.

Hofbräuhaus

No visit to Munich is complete without a stop at the Hofbräuhaus. The rowdy beer hall features huge beer steins, music and lots of merriment. Even if not staying for a drink, it is worth taking a peek inside.

Museums abound in Munich providing something of interest for everyone to enjoy. The Munich City Museum (Münchner Stadtmuseum) explores the city’s history including the upheaval after WWI, its place in the early stages of the Nazi movement, and its postwar renaissance.

The Museum Quarter (Kunstareal) houses a number of interesting museums including the Pinakothek collections. The Alte Pinakothek houses a collection of works by European masters from the 14th to the 18th centuries. Displays include well-known pieces by Albrecht Dürer, Raphael and Peter Paul Rubens.

The Neue Pinakothek is famous for its collection of Impressionist paintings from Pierre-Auguste Renoir,  Édouard Manet, Paul Cézanne, Edgar Degas, Vincent van Gogh and others.

The Pinakothek der Moderne unifies a number of impressive collections into one building. It is deemed one of the most important and popular museums of modern art in Europe.

Courtyard of Café Tambosi 

The Residenz, situated in Max-Joseph-Platz, was the former residence of the royal Wittelsbach family. Starting life as a 1385 castle, over time it evolved into an opulent palace. Allied bombs pretty much leveled the building in 1944 and, like so many buildings in Munich, it was reconstructed. The complex consists of the Residenz Museum, the Treasury and the Cuvilliés Theater, all requiring separate admissions.

For a respite away from the hubbub of activity in the town center, the Hofgaten is a delightful oasis. A drink or snack at the peaceful Café Tambosi serves in stark contrast to the boisterous beer garden.

Close by lies Munich’s huge park, the English Garden (Englischer Garten). Designed in 1789, the sprawling garden is situated along the Isar River. It is the largest urban park on the Continent and is the perfect spot to relax, picnic, go for a stroll, jog or bike ride.

Although impressive, I can’t say that Munich was one of our favorite European cities. It didn’t feel particularly welcoming and we experienced some rather rude behavior on this trip as well as a subsequent one a couple of years later. In all our years of travels throughout Europe we have rarely been treated in any way other than hospitably, so we found it to be a bit jarring.

Bavaria is a beautiful area with many smaller quaint towns to explore. Within an easy drive or train ride, the region is filled with castles, beautiful landscapes, and historical sites. We much preferred the smaller towns of Bavaria over Munich, but that is simply a personal preference.