Ireland - Cork, Cobh & Kinsale

From Killarney we once again boarded a train, this time to Cork, our final destination before returning to Dublin to fly home. Cork is the second largest city in Ireland. It sits on the River Lee and has a pedestrian downtown area worth a stroll.

Cork

Like Killarney, we stayed in Cork out of convenience. There really isn’t much of interest for visitors to see or do in Cork. Area attractions are mostly outside the city, such as the Blarney Castle and Gardens and some attractive smaller towns including Cobh and Kinsale. I would recommend to those with a car to stay in the delightful town of Kinsale if traveling within County Cork.

From the train station we walked to our hotel, dropped our bags and headed out for some lunch. We were directed to a restaurant on the river called Electric. We sat outside on what was a nice, warm day and we both ordered the Roast, a sandwich stuffed with a terrific chicken pesto. A slaw accompanied the sandwich and it was also delicious. We had some nice rosé wine with our meal as well. The service was good, and the prices were very reasonable. Honestly couldn’t have asked for a more pleasant time sitting on the river’s edge on such a pretty day.

Cobh's Waterfront

After lunch we embarked on a 25-minute train trip to the town of Cobh. Cobh was the major port of Irish emigration in the 19th century and it was the last port of call for the Titanic. There is a museum called The Titanic Experience that recounts the ship’s final hours.

The Neo-Gothic St. Colman’s Cathedral stands upon a high hill. It is worth the hike up if only for the views. The best part of town is roaming around the charming streets and enjoying the waterfront. We stopped by Jacobs Ladder Bar, which is situated on the water, and enjoyed the nice view and a relaxing glass of wine on their outside deck. It was quiet compared to the activity in the town's center, and the people were very nice and accommodating.

Cobh

That night we headed off to the Market Lane for dinner. This restaurant is always busy so instead of waiting for a table we settled in at the bar for a light meal both nights we were in town.

The bartenders were friendly and extremely efficient; there is a nice ambiance about the place. Both nights we ordered wine and appetizers. The first night we had the bread with three dips, the duck and the mackerel. The second night we had the same bread, the falafel and the crab. Everything we tried was delicious and the wine was good too. Best of all the staff made us feel at home. We just loved this place.

The next day we took a bus to the town of Kinsale. Out of all the towns we visited on our trip, this was our favorite. Sitting on the bay, flanked on two sides by old star forts, full of history and charm, and loaded with quaint streets lined with inviting shops and restaurants ... Kinsale is a joy.

Kinsale Charm

We wandered the town, popping into one cute store after another. It is unusual for us to shop when on a European vacation, there are too many other things to do, but the stores here beckoned. We bought some very pretty glass items … some gifts and a couple of things for ourselves.

We then boarded the Spirit of Kinsale for a 45-minute cruise around the harbor. It was a lovely day and there was no better way to spend some time than on the water. From the small boat voyagers get a seagull’s view of the town, harbor, both Charles and James Forts, as well as marine life and waterfowl. It’s a nice, relaxing way to spend a bit of time.

Spirit of Kinsale

From the boat we had noticed a waterfront restaurant with a second-floor balcony. Didn’t know a thing about it but imagining having lunch accompanied by a nice view was very enticing. 

Once back on shore we headed toward the restaurant which turned out to be the Vista Wine Bar. As Kinsale was once an important international port for wine trade, and we both happen to love wine, it seemed appropriate. We had a nice time sitting outside on the upper deck. I had the quiche and my husband had a burger ... not at all Irish, but we enjoyed it. The service was good, and the view and reasonable prices could not be beat.

Kinsale Harbor

We hated to leave this sweet little town. It was a great way to end our road trip as the next day we were headed back to Dublin for our last night before returning to the States.

We only had nine full days in Ireland but managed to see quite a lot without feeling rushed. With two weeks, it would be pretty easy to hit all the high points of this beautiful and welcoming country.

A few tips: For first-time travelers to Europe, I would recommend visiting Ireland or the UK. People are friendly and, of course, English is spoken, removing the communication barrier that can sometimes be a problem in other European countries. Unlike the UK, Ireland is part of the European Union and uses the Euro as its currency.

Kinsale

Those willing to drive to the left on the twisting roads will have more options of places to stay and to visit while traveling in Ireland. The trains aren’t as plentiful here as they are in most of the European countries that we have visited, but buses and tour guides can fill in the void for those not wishing to rent a car.

For the lowest fares it is advisable to purchase train tickets, especially for longer trips, from home via the Internet (Irish Rail https://www.irishrail.ie/). The earlier the better for the best deals. This applies to anywhere in Europe when buying train tickets. Also, it is always a good idea to have ID, preferably a passport, and the credit card used to purchase the tickets at hand. 

Seats are assigned on most trains, but it is not unusual for someone to already be sitting in a reserved seat. There are two choices in this case: notify the person(s) that they are sitting in a reserved seat, usually the reserved person’s name will be on the tiny screen above the seat, or if the train is not full, find an unreserved seat and settle in.

If flying out of Dublin to the US, it is important to know that passengers go through US Customs and Immigration in Ireland, not in the US. This sounds convenient, but it takes a really long time, so it is necessary to get to the airport extra early, three hours is recommended.