Ireland - Dublin, Galway & Kilkenny

It took a while, but we finally made it to Ireland. Being half Irish, it had long been on my bucket list, but for some reason we always flew over on our way to the continent rather than landing on the Emerald Isle.

Colorful Dublin

We started and ended our journey in Dublin with several side trips and stops in between. Upon our arrival we took the Airlink Express bus from the Dublin Airport to the Heuston Rail Station, then headed to our hotel, via the tram, to stow our bags. Once free of luggage, we set off to enjoy some lunch while waiting for our room to be readied.

We ended up at a beautiful restaurant called The Church. As the name implies, the restaurant is housed in a wonderfully renovated church, pipe organ and all. I had fish and chips and my husband had a hot chicken wrap, not very Irish. The ambiance and the wait staff were good. We enjoyed our meal but, although the food was good, we had better in most places we went throughout our stay, and for less money. Still it was a pleasant experience.

Oscar Wilde Memorial Sculpture

After officially checking into the hotel, we wandered through the Temple Bar area, listened to music and grabbed a drink. We spent the rest of that afternoon and the following day exploring the gems of the city.

We were staying across the river from Temple Bar in an active but quieter part of town. That evening we had dinner at a nearby pub called Lotts Café Bar. The atmosphere was nicer than many of the bars we later visited, and the staff was very friendly. I tried the Coddle, kind of a potato and sausage stew … which was a new experience for me, and my husband had Pork Chops with Apple Cider Gravy. We both enjoyed our meals, the prices were very reasonable, and it was the perfect cozy way to end our very long day of travel.

Trinity Library

For lovers of books, particularly illuminated manuscripts, a visit to the Book of Kells and the old library at Trinity College is a must. The displayed pages of the book are beautiful as are the additional books on display. The tall shelves of rare books in the library are also quite impressive. We booked tickets online and fast-tracked into the library ... for a few Euros more, we felt it was well worth it to skip the lines.

After our library visit, we headed off to St. Stephen’s Green. The Green is a lovely park and provides an opportunity for people to get away from the crowds and enjoy a stroll or a picnic. After roaming the park, we then stopped by the nearby Shelbourne hotel to enjoy lunch amid a bit of old-time luxury. The Shelbourne is a true Grande Dame of a hotel. There are a few bars for casual eating, a fine dining restaurant, and the Lord Mayor’s Lounge which boasts a fancy afternoon tea.

St. Stephen’s Green

We passed by the Gaiety Theatre numerous times where Riverdance was on stage. We thought what better place was there to see it than in Dublin, so we checked with the box office and were delighted to get tickets. It was a wonderful show, we thoroughly enjoyed it and felt so lucky to see it in Ireland.

There is something for everyone in Dublin. There are whisky tours and, of course, the Guinness visitor center for those wishing to sample some of Ireland’s most famous drinks. Museums abound including the Irish Emigration Museum and the National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology and Dublin Castle. Amusing statues can be spotted all around the city and there is a botanical garden and a zoo as well.

In addition to pubs, there are good seafood places to dine. We stopped by the Fish Shack Café for lunch one day, nothing fancy but we found it to be very enjoyable. The service was friendly, and our fish and chips were light and flavorful. The price was reasonable for the nice sized portions.

Dublin Castle

For those tired of Irish fare, we discovered two nice Italian restaurants. Il Vicoletto is a lovely Italian restaurant conveniently located in the city center, yet a little away from all the hustle and bustle. The restaurant is small and quaint, reservations would be advised. We enjoyed our dinner, starting with the Caprese di Bufala salad. The Seafood Pasta and the Veal Scaloppine were both excellent. The wine selection was good as was the service.

We came upon Ciao Bella Roma by chance and were so glad we did. We were given a table downstairs where it was nice and quiet. We ordered two appetizers and split a pizza. We also ordered a bottle of wine from their nice selection. The Caprese Salad and Seafood Salad were both very fresh and good, and the pizza was delicious. The staff were busy, but it didn't prevent them from providing excellent service at this reasonable restaurant. We enjoyed our evening so much that on our return to Dublin for our last night, we dined there again.

Galway

We ventured out on two side trips while in Dublin. The first, a visit to Galway, was a bit of a stretch as a day trip, but it was certainly doable. The train ride wasn’t particularly scenic between Dublin and Galway, not as attractive as other areas of the country we traveled through, but the little over two and a half hours passed quickly.

The historic part of Galway was much smaller than expected. There aren’t many sights in town. The most delightful pastime is to enjoy a pleasant stroll along the colorful medieval streets followed by a meal in one of the many traditional pubs.

Cathedral of St. Nicholas

We did visit the City Museum, which is free and houses prehistoric and ancient treasures from Galway and the surrounding area. We also stopped by the Cathedral of St. Nicholas. The cathedral has a very nice interior including a cedar ceiling, marble floors, mahogany pews, lovely stained glass and hand-carved stations of the cross. It is not a historical cathedral, it was opened in 1965, but it is among the last of the grand stone churches built in Europe.

Kilkenny Castle

Our second side trip was to the town of Kilkenny. We loved this beautiful town in the country’s interior, it was one of our favorites. Just an hour and a half from Dublin by train, there are some great sights including the Kilkenny castle which stands majestically along the River Nore as it keeps watch over the town. The castle is available to tour and the grounds are gorgeous. Even if not in the mood to visit inside the castle, the grounds are free and are definitely worth wandering.

Dominican Black Abbey

There are three churches worth a look; the 13th-century St. Canice's Cathedral & Round Tower, the more recent St. Mary’s Cathedral which opened in 1857, and the Black Abbey established in 1225 as one of the first houses of the Dominican Order in Ireland. All are interesting and a short distance from each other.

Another interesting sight is the well-preserved medieval merchant’s house, the Rothe House and Garden. The house and walled gardens are available to tour.

Along the River Nore

For the beer lover, the Smithwick's Experience is similar to the Guinness visitor center in Dublin. The reddish ale has been around longer than Guinness, but it is now part of the same company. Of course, pubs abound for a pint or two or to partake in a tasty and relaxing meal.

Exploring the colorful and delightful town of Kilkenny, the castle grounds and the churches was truly a joy and I would highly recommend spending a night there, or at least visiting on a day trip.

We loved Dublin and our side trips. From there we headed to our next base of Killarney to tour the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula.