Exploring Malmö, Sweden

we flew from Cologne to Copenhagen at the end of our first trip to Germany. Since we had never been to Sweden, and were so close, we decided to spend our first night in Malmö rather than Copenhagen.

Sweden is part of the European Union but never adopted the euro. Their currency is the Swedish krona (SEK). English is widely spoken in the bigger cities but, as always, it is good to learn basic words and phrases of any country’s language before visiting.

Öresund Bridge

The train conveniently links Copenhagen’s airport with Malmö’s central train station so there is no need to leave the airport or to make a connection in town. Traveling over the Öresund Strait via the Öresund Bridge, within thirty-five minutes we were in the heart of Malmö. 

The idea of a bridge between Sweden and Denmark had been a dream for over 100 years. In 1991 the two countries agreed on how to finally achieve that dream and in July of 2000 the bridge opened to both train and vehicle traffic, injecting a new prosperity and vigor into the city of Malmö.

Malmö is the capital of Skåne County and is the third largest city in Sweden after Stockholm and Gothenborg. The city was founded in the mid-13th century. Under Danish rule from 1397 to 1658, Malmö was an important town. Once returned to Sweden, however, its fortunes waned until the end of the 18th century. The city benefitted from the 19th-century industrial revolution but was later affected by a decline in industry, particularly shipbuilding. 

Radhuset (Town Hall) in the Stortorget (Main Square)

Malmö struggled economically until the Öresund Bridge’s connection to Copenhagen helped to make Malmö a hub for new technologies and services. Malmö now enjoys a modern, lively, and thriving European lifestyle and has become a center for contemporary art and design.

The center of Malmö, where most sights are located, is compact and easy to explore on foot. Lilla Torg and Mollevangstorget are busy market squares, and the beautiful nearby parks are a delight to wander. While the center retains its old-town atmosphere, outside the city the suburbs are booming.

The historic Radhuset, the Town Hall, sits in the old town’s main square, Stortorget. Originally designed in the 1530s, the town hall was renovated in the 1860s, giving it the handsome Dutch-Renaissance façade that is seen today.

St. Petri Kyrka's Tower

Located behind Stortorget is Malmö’s cathedral, St. Petri Kyrka. Built in the 12th century, the church is made from red brick. The high tower, constructed in the late 19th century after two 15th-century towers collapsed, is a prominent feature of Malmö’s skyline. The cathedral houses treasures from the 16th and 17th centuries when Malmö’s prosperity was high. The ornate Renaissance-style altar is magnificent. The original medieval organ, built in 1531, is said to be the oldest working organ in the world and now resides in the Malmö Museum.

Surrounded by quaint shops and outdoor cafés, Lilla Torg, Little Square, is a popular gathering place. The square was created in 1590 and is still regularly used as a marketplace.

Museums abound in Malmö with most being part of the Malmö Museum. Malmöhus Castle was built from 1537 to 1542 on the ruins of an old fort and is the oldest preserved Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. Today the former fortress is a part of the Malmö Museum and houses the Malmö Art Museum, a Natural History Museum and a small aquarium.

Charming Streets of Malmö 

Teknikens och Sjöfartens Hus Malmöhusvägen, the Museum of Technology and Seafaring, is also part of the Malmö Museum. Its exhibits cover everything to do with technological development and seafaring, as well as the history of roadbuilding and aviation.

The Moderna Museet Malmö, Modern Museum, specializes in Scandinavian and international art of the 20th and 21st century. It is a branch of the Swedish Museum of Modern Art in Stockholm. It is one of Europe’s leading museums of modern and contemporary art.

Malmö Konsthall, the Art Hall, showcases a variety of exhibitions throughout the year from modern classics to experimental art.

Turning Torso

Stadsmuseet, the City Museum, covers the history of Malmö and surrounding Skane County. Exhibits include tools, weapons, and domestic objects. A popular attraction is the 18th-century tower with its 25-foot thick walls and original cannons.

Koggmuseet is an experience center built around two full-scale replica medieval cog ships, one of which is the largest in the world. Visitors learn about the history surrounding the ships and are welcome to climb onboard.

For fans of modern architecture, the Turning Torso in is the tallest skyscraper in Scandinavia with 54 floors. The building was designed by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and is based on his sculpture of a twisted human body, the Twisting Torso. The tower stands near the Öresund Bridge in the new neighborhood of Västra Hamnen.

Lovely Parks

Green spaces are plentiful in Malmö. Kungsparken and Slottsparken are beautiful parks within walking distance of the old town. The Slottsträdgården is a working garden with a wide variety of crops and ornamental plants.

Nice restaurants are scattered all about town. For dinner we had a delightful evening at Johan P. Once seated in this quaint restaurant we studied our options from the carte, but the day's menu on the chalkboard looked interesting so we went for it. We were not disappointed. Each course was as good as the previous and the service was friendly and efficient. Prices were more expensive than we had experienced in other parts of Europe, but Scandinavia tends to be much pricier than mainland Europe.

We enjoyed our day and night in Malmö. It is such an easy side trip from Copenhagen so why not take the opportunity to cross an incredible bridge to spend a half day, full day or night in a delightful city in another country.

I’ll discuss our visit to Copenhagen in a later post.

Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts

This side dish has a lovely blend of textures, is healthy and is naturally gluten-free. Pair it with Scallops and Cider Sauce for an easy, quick and delicious dinner.

Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts
(Makes 4 to 6 servings.)

• 2 cups red quinoa
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and finely diced
• 6 scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup fresh or frozen peas, thawed
• 1/2 cup chopped pistachio nuts
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme


Red Quinoa with Vegetables and Nuts

Pour quinoa into a bowl of cold water and wash it, rubbing it between your hands. Drain and repeat until the water is clear.

Bring 3 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the quinoa, stir once and return to a boil. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat 10 minutes. Pour through a strainer and drain well. Transfer to a large bowl.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over moderate heat. Add the carrot and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the scallions and cook for another minute. Add the bell pepper, salt and pepper and sauté for about 2 minutes. Add the peas and stir to combine. Add the quinoa, chopped nuts and thyme and stir again to combine. Serve immediately.

Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce

Duck has only recently been added to my cooking repertoire. It was always described as greasy and gamey ... not a very appealing description. I remember years ago listening to my mother and some of her co-workers plan a little luncheon. When one of the ladies suggested serving some "Cold Duck" (referring to the inexpensive sparkling wine popular in the day) another exclaimed "Isn't that a little greasy?!"

But if you only cook the breasts, and render just enough fat for sautéing, it doesn't have to be greasy at all and it is quite delicious.

The cherry sauce is a wonderful accompaniment. It gives a nice, but not overly sweet, flavor to the duck, and to pork as well. It makes a lot, so I freeze any extra for next time. If you want to make this gluten-free, make sure the chili sauce, beef broth and hoison sauce are all gluten-free (you can leave the hoison sauce out). The duck breasts can be grilled or cooked on the stove.

Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce
(Serves 4.)

• 2 boneless duck breasts, each about 1 3/4 pound
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup orange juice
• 1/2 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 1 jar (12 oz.) black cherry preserves
• 1/2 cup bottled chili sauce
• 1/2 cup beef stock
• 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• 1 small jar of whole cherries (optional)
• 1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives


Duck Breasts with Black Cherry Sauce

Using a sharp knife, cut several long slashes in the skin, taking care not to cut through to the meat. Place the breasts in a shallow non-aluminum dish just large enough to hold them in a single layer.

In a small bowl, stir together the olive oil, orange juice, ginger, salt and pepper flakes. Spoon half of the marinade over the duck breasts. Turn over the breasts and spoon the remaining marinade on top. Cover and refrigerate, turning the breasts several times, for 2 hours. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the cherry preserves, chili sauce, stock, hoisin sauce and mustard. Stir well and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer until thickened, about 20 minutes. Add the cherries and remove from the heat.

To grill: Prepare a hot fire in a grill. Position the grill rack 4 to 6 inches above the fire.

Place the duck breasts, skin sides down, on the rack. Cook until the skin is crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn over the breasts and continue to cook until medium-rare, about 3 minutes more. To test, press the meat; it will give slightly, then bounce back. Brush both sides of the breasts with a little of the black cherry sauce and grill for 1 minute on each side to glaze.

To cook on stove: If you prefer to cook the duck breasts on the stove, you can sauté them in a large pan over medium heat. I take the skin off because it is so fatty and can make a mess, but cook them however you like. (If leaving the skin on, start cooking with the skin side down and cook until the skin is crisp. If the skin has been removed, add a little oil to the pan or render some of the fatty skin to sauté the duck.) Flip the breasts over and continue to cook to your liking, about 5 minutes for medium/rare.

Transfer the breasts to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat the cherry sauce over low heat.

Carve the duck breasts on the diagonal across the grain into thin slices. Arrange on a platter and spoon the hot cherry sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the chives and serve immediately.

Great Britain - London, Easy Day Trips (Canterbury & Bath)

Further afield, but easy day trips, there are many lovely towns to visit from London including Canterbury and Bath.

Canterbury Cathedral

Canterbury is a historic and delightful town and is easy to visit by train. Ancient walls, originally built by the Romans, encircle the medieval center with its cobbled streets and timber-framed buildings.

The Canterbury Cathedral is one of the oldest and most famous churches in England and has been designated a World Heritage Site. Founded in 597, the cathedral was completely rebuilt between 1070 and 1077. The east end was enlarged at the beginning of the 12th century and then largely rebuilt in the Gothic style following a fire in 1174.

Canterbury Cathedral Interior

The Cathedral’s notoriety is linked to the 1170 murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket. Climaxing a long dispute between Becket and King Henry II, the king is said to have cried out “Who will rid me of this turbulent priest?” Following that, four knights were sent to murder the Archbishop as he prayed in his own cathedral.

Inside the graceful columns and arches, the pretty stained-glass windows, and the fine stonework combine to create a magnificent house of worship.

Town of Canterbury

Founded in 598, St Augustine's Abbey was a Benedictine monastery until its dissolution in 1538 during the English Reformation. Since 1848 the abbey ruins have been preserved for their historical value. Part of the site is used for educational purposes.

The historic Westgate Towers mark the main entrance to the Westgate Park. The park is made up of four areas: Westgate Gardens, Tannery Field, Toddler’s Cove and Bingley Island Local Nature Reserve. The River Great Stour runs through the center of the park and boat tours are available for people to relax and enjoy.

A charming town center, a famous cathedral, interesting ruins, and a beautiful park make up the city of Canterbury, only a couple hours away from London.

Town of Bath

We took a train to Bath on the last day of our last visit to London. This is a stunning town that is great for a day trip or, even better, to spend a night or two. It’s the perfect place to put your feet up and take it easy, so to speak. There is easy access to many day trips from here as well.

It’s not necessary to wander much further than Bath’s town square to see an array of interesting sites. There are the big bus tours of course, but not really worth it here. Instead I would opt for a free walking tour to get acquainted with this gorgeous city.

Bath has been known for its curative waters for centuries, drawing royalty to soak in its warm, mineral-rich baths. Today visitors can still enjoy the hot springs at the Thermae Bath Spa.

Roman Baths

Dating back to ancient Roman times, the Roman Baths and accompanying museum are a must to visit. Best to arrive early as this is a very popular tourist attraction. The entrance fee includes a good audio guide that takes visitors through the entire museum beginning with an explanation of the structure that stood here in Roman times. The stairs lead down to the temple’s original foundation. There are archaeological fragments and objects, and Roman coins on display. It really is a fascinating piece of history.

The exit ushers visitors into the Pump Room, an elegant Georgian-style tea room, where a taste of spa water or a spot of tea can be had.

Bath Abbey

The dominant feature of Bath’s town center is the 500-hundred-year-old abbey. The graceful façade is stunning and, for a small donation, the interior is worth exploring. Replaced in the 1950s, the lovely stained-glass window behind the altar depicts 52 scenes from Christ’s life. The original medieval glass was destroyed by WWII bombs. The red-iron gas-powered glass lamps remain from the 19th century. The abbey’s tower can be climbed, but only as part of a guided tour.

Pulteney Bridge

The much photographed Pulteney Bridge spans the 

River Avon. Designed by Robert Adam, it was completed in 1774 and is one of only four bridges in the world that has shops across on both sides.

Next to the bridge stands the Victoria Art Gallery. The ground floor hosts temporary exhibits and the upstairs houses a small permanent collection of paintings from the late 17th century to the current day, as well as a decorative arts collection.

Victoria Park

The Royal Crescent is a huge complex of Georgian-style buildings shaped into an arc. Built in the mid-18th century for the well-heeled residents of bath, these unique condo-like buildings are worth a look. The manicured grounds have a trick fence providing residents with an expansive view yet keeping the less fortunate out. The nearby Victoria Park and Botanic Gardens are beautiful and worth the time to relax and enjoy a picnic.

A hotel sits in the center of the Crescent complex and number 1 Royal Crescent is a period home museum, providing visitors with the opportunity to experience how the upper-class lived in Bath during the 18th century.

Kennet and Avon Canal Towpath

The Fashion Museum is a lot of fun and is included with the Roman Baths and Victoria Art Gallery combo ticket. Four centuries of fashion are on display including period accessories. There is an area to try on clothes that makes it playful as well as interesting.

We enjoyed a very pleasant walk along the Kennet and Avon Canal towpath. The pretty path extends from the train station for three miles to the small town of Bathampton. Along the way there are a series of locks. I was surprised to learn that my husband had never seen a working lock, so he liked watching the boats maneuver their way through them. The Pulteney Princess provides lazy cruises to Bathhampton for those choosing not to walk.

We loved the time we spent in Bath. It is an exquisite town with entertaining sites and many beautiful areas to wander. It's a great and easy get-away from the hustle and bustle of London.

Baked Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce

I love salmon and have a preference for wild salmon as opposed to farm-raised. As with most fish, I like to top it with a mild sauce that complements the fish. Never top fish, or anything for that matter, with a sauce that is going to overpower it. You want to enhance the flavors, not mask them.

With only a few ingredients, this sauce is extremely easy to make and just perfect with the salmon for a quick week-night dinner. The silky sauce makes it good enough to serve to company too.

Freeze any cooked leftover salmon to make salmon cakes another night.

Baked Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce
(Makes 4 servings.)

• 4 wild-caught, center cut salmon fillets
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 3/4 cup chicken stock or broth
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• Salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Baked Salmon with Mustard Cream Sauce

Place salmon in a shallow dish, skin side down, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Place on middle rack of preheated oven. Bake for approximately 15 minutes, until salmon is cooked through, but not overdone.*

While the salmon is cooking place the cream and stock or broth in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Simmer until liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. (If you prefer a thicker sauce, add a little slurry – a little broth mixed with a little cornstarch – to the simmering liquid and whisk in.)  Whisk in the mustard, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and keep warm.

When the salmon is cooked, plate and spoon sauce on fish. Sprinkle with more parsley if desired and serve.

*As a general rule of thumb, bake fish for about 20 minutes per inch of thickness. Salmon fillets are usually about 3/4 inch thick, taking around 15 minutes to cook through.

Great Britain - London, Easy Side Trips (Greenwich & Windsor)

Even without a car there are countless easy side trips to take from London, all of them worthwhile. Of course if visiting the countryside, a car is best, but traveling from one town to another by train or bus is easy and relaxing.

Passing Under the Tower Bridge on Way to Greenwich

Greenwich is part of greater London and a breeze to visit. We took the boat from downtown and it was half the fun. On the way the boat passes under the iconic Tower Bridge and by the notorious Tower of London. We took the rail back to save time.

Once in Greenwich visitors are welcome to board the Cutty Sark clipper ship, visit the National Maritime Museum, the Royal Observatory, and the Old Royal Naval College, enjoy a picnic in a park, or simply take a pleasant stroll.

Cutty Sark

Launched in 1869, the graceful Cutty Sark was the world’s last operating clipper ship. With favorable conditions, she could travel up to 300 miles a day. She traveled all around the world until the mid-1920s when sailing vessels were replaced by the faster steamer ships. She found her final resting spot in Greenwich where she welcomes visitors daily.

The National Maritime Museum houses all kinds of objects relating to the sea. It is a perfect family museum with lots of interactive exhibits for the kids.
 

Royal Observatory

King Charles II founded the Royal Observatory in 1675 for the purpose of improving navigation. The observatory is situated on the prime meridian (0^o longitude) and is famous for being the point from which all time is measured. Lovers of astronomy will appreciate the displays and children will have fun with the Weller Astronomy Galleries’ interactive exhibits. The Peter Harrison Planetarium is also part of the observatory.

Traditional Pubs Abound in Greenwich

Founded in 1692, the Old Royal Naval College originally served as a charity hospital to care for sick and injured naval officers. From 1873 to 1998 the building was used as a naval officer training college. Since 1998, when the Royal Navy ceased to use the building, it has been opened to tour.

For lunch Greenwich is packed full of pubs, or the Greenwich Market offers up a bounty of goodies for assembling a picnic in a beautiful park setting. Greenwich is interesting and well worth at least a half day.

Windsor Castle

A little further out, but an easy trip by train, is the town of Windsor. The main attraction here, of course, is Windsor Castle, the official home of the royal family.

The imposing castle is said to be the oldest and largest occupied castle in the world. On exhibit are Queen Mary’s Doll House, the Drawings Gallery, the China Museum, and opulent State Apartments.

St. George’s Chapel

The word ‘chapel’ is a bit of a misnomer when describing the beautiful, Gothic-style St. George’s Chapel. The chapel is larger than most churches and is home to fine stained-glass windows, exquisite carvings, and many royal tombs.

Pretty Areas Near the Castle

The castle’s grounds and gardens are lovely to roam and the changing of the guard can be viewed at 11:00AM Monday through Saturday, April through July and on alternate days the rest of the year. 

The castle is great to visit, but the town with its pedestrian shopping and dining area is charming as well. 

A walk away from the town center offers scenic streets and pretty parks. Windsor is truly a most pleasant day's outing.

Great Britain - London, A Taste of Neighborhoods & Shopping

While enjoying all the wonderful sites of London is great, it is also important to take time to slow down and leisurely explore the neighborhoods too. London is an international city and its neighborhoods reflect its diversity. Running from site to site to see everything can be exhausting. I always hit the most important places on my list, but assume I’ll return to see the rest someday. Wandering the neighborhoods, popping into a little boutique or café, joining the locals as they shop at an open market, or enjoying a picnic in a park or on the banks of a river can all be just as rewarding as any site.

Nelson's Column in Trafalgar Square

If visiting the National Gallery, spend time in London’s main square and center of national democracy, Trafalgar Square. The Square's name commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar, the 1805 British navy’s victory off the coast of Cape Trafalgar during the Napoleonic Wars. The square opened in 1844 with the 169-foot Nelson's Column as its centerpiece, guarded by four lion statues. The fountains were added later. In July 2003 a massive transformation was completed. The north terrace was pedestrianized, linking it to the National Gallery. The square is a beehive of activity and is great for people watching.

A Little Opera in Covent Garden

London’s west end is full of interesting areas. Piccadilly Circus is akin to New York City’s Times Square, complete with neon signs and a bit of riffraff. There is some fun shopping in the area and nearby there are theaters and Chinese restaurants offering entertainment and reasonably priced food. Just north of Piccadilly is the trendy Soho district. Good pubs and restaurants share the area with the city’s red-light district.

A few years back we stayed near Covent Garden and found the area to be delightful. The covered marketplace dates to medieval times. Today’s structure was built in 1830 to house stalls of produce. In 1973 the stalls were turned into boutiques and cafés. Street performers, who audition for the privilege, are assigned times to play their instruments or sing in the courtyard. Some amazing opera can be heard here. Not far from Covent Garden is London’s theater district boasting all the latest shows. We saw Lion King a few years back.

Portobello Road in Notting Hill

Hyde Park is to London what Central Park is to New York City. Once Henry VIII’s hunting grounds, the over 600-acre park boasts beautiful green spaces and an impressive man-made lake with rental boats and a lakeside swimming pool. The western half of the park is called Kensington Gardens. The Princess Diana Memorial Fountain honors the late Princess of Wales who used to live at Kensington Palace.

West London is known for its posh department stores such as Harrods, Fortnum & Mason and Harvey Nichols. Mayfair is a lovely, upscale neighborhood to walk about. If money is no object, these are the areas to shop, but for fun shops and stalls there are much better options.

A Bit of Whimsy in Camden

Portobello Road in Notting Hill is an amusing street to stroll and to pick up some funky items, vintage goods or perhaps an antique or two. We were there on a Friday when, along with Saturdays, the street is turned into a festival full of flea market stalls, food huts and music. It’s fun to spend a few hours browsing about.

For a real kick, the best shopping place is Camden Lock Market. Shoppers can watch boats navigate locks along a pretty canal, enjoy lunch and browse boutiques, food markets and craft stalls all in one place. And did I mention the crazy storefronts lining the street? This is most definitely an amusing place to while away some time.

This, of course, is just a small sampling of neighborhoods and shopping areas worth exploring. There are places for everyone of different tastes to have lots of fun. Next, I'll talk about a couple of easy side trips from London.

Fried Zucchini with Spicy Dipping Sauce

We don't eat too much in the way of fried food, but I must admit that I do love fried zucchini. Guess I justify eating it because, after all, zucchini is a vegetable!

This recipe makes a great hors d'oeuvre as just about anyone can enjoy it, including vegetarians. I have made it gluten-free by whirling Udi's gluten-free bread in a food processor and using a gluten-free flour mix with good results.

Serve it with the dipping sauce below or use your favorite ranch or blue cheese dressing.

Fried Zucchini with Spicy Dipping Sauce
(Serves 6.)

• Oil for frying
• 3 large zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch rounds
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 1/2 cups panko bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• Salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• 1/4 cup water
• Spicy dipping sauce, recipe follows

Preheat oil in a deep-fryer to 350°F.

Fried Zucchini with Spicy Dipping Sauce

Measure flour into a pie plate. In another pie plate combine panko, Parmesan, parsley, red pepper flakes and salt and pepper, to taste. In a third plate add eggs and water. Dredge the zucchini in the flour, followed by the egg and finally in the panko.

Working in batches, place the breaded zucchini slices in the hot oil and fry until golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain on a paper towel lined sheet tray and immediately season with salt and pepper. Serve alongside the zucchini.






Spicy Dipping Sauce
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 cup spicy barbecue sauce or salsa
• 1 medium shallot, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped chives
• Salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Place all the ingredients into a serving bowl and mix until incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and let flavors marinate for at least 1 hour.

Great Britain - London's Tourist Sites

Our last stop on our Great Britain holiday was London. We had visited London a couple of times, but there is so much to see and there are so many easy side trips to take, that we decided to spend a few days before flying home to the States.

Clock Tower at the Houses of Parliament

London (as well as the rest of the UK and Ireland) is a great destination for the first-time European vacationer. For those a bit nervous about visiting countries that speak languages foreign to us, English-speaking countries make for an easy place to start exploring Europe. However, no one should be afraid to travel just because they don’t know a language, we have never had a problem anywhere we have gone. That is not to say that it isn’t good to learn at least some basics of a country’s language. It is surprising how helpful knowing a few key words and phrases can be, and the effort is appreciated by locals.

Now that Great Britain is no longer part of the European Union, it is a little less easy and more time consuming to go to and from EU countries than it used to be. There are six airports in the London area with the main one, if arriving from the States, being Heathrow. Heathrow is comprised of several terminals and can be a nightmare to navigate. It is advisable to allow plenty of time if connecting through or if flying from there. Taxis, buses, trains, and subways (the tube) are available for transport into town.

Big Tourist Bus

Around nine train stations are spread throughout the city and are connected by the tube or taxis. Taxis are regulated, so no worries about being overcharged. It is a good idea to become familiar with the city layout and the tube and train stations by studying a detailed city map ahead of time.

In addition to ground transportation an enjoyable way to get to sites along the river Thames, such as the Tower of London or Greenwich, is to take a river cruise. This is especially pleasant on a nice, warm day.

Big bus tours are plentiful in London and it is the only city that we have actually taken this kind of tour. It is a great way to get the lay of the land, locate all the major sites, and decide where to return. Twenty-four-hour tickets allow plenty of time to take advantage of the hop on and off service.

British Museum's Diamond Oak-Leaf Tiara

Although it may seem daunting at first glance, London is a great walking city. Many sites are clustered, making it easy to stroll from one place to another or to simply wander about.

Even when it was part of the EU, the Euro was never used in Great Britain, they chose to retain the pound (GBP or £) as their currency. The best way to obtain local currency is always through a local bank’s ATM. It is advisable to take out cash when the bank is open on the off chance that a problem is encountered, or the debit card gets somehow stuck in the machine.

Like Paris or New York, there are a bounty of sites in London to visit and multiple choices of entertainment to enjoy, neighborhoods to explore, restaurants to dine, and side trips to take. A good guidebook always assists in laying out the best itinerary to suit everyone’s interests. In this post I’ll cover some of the more interesting sites to visit. There are too many to provide a complete list, but a guidebook will list them all.

Chihuly Rotunda Chandelier
Victoria and Albert Museum

Most everything in London is expensive, including tourist sites, but there are several great museums that do not charge a set entrance fee, although most ask for a modest donation. One of my favorites is the British Museum. The British Museum was the first public national museum in the world. Its permanent collection consists of over eight million artifacts that take visitors through a tour of the world’s civilization from its primitive beginning to present day. Interesting special and touring exhibits are nearly always on display.

Another museum that I love is the Victoria and Albert Museum. This museum boasts the world’s top collection of decorative arts (stained glass, ceramics, furniture, jewelry, etc.). When we were there the first time, there was an incredible temporary exhibit of Dale Chihuly glass.

The Museum of London is the perfect place to learn about the history of this wonderful city. If there is a city museum available to visit in any town, it is always a good idea to do so as they are usually very interesting and worthwhile.

For lovers of European paintings, the National Gallery has an amazing collection dating from 1250 to 1900. Familiar artists such as Leonardo, Rembrandt, Turner, and many Impressionist painters are represented.

There are two Tate museums, the Tate Britain which houses British paintings from the 16th century through more recent times, and the Tate Modern which features works of more contemporary artists such as Hockney, Pollock, Warhol, and Lichtenstein.

Westminster Abbey

Natural history museums are always fun for the whole family and London has a fine one. There is also a good science museum next door. For family fun, and a not so serious activity, there is the funky Madame Tussauds Waxworks.

One of the best-known churches in the world is the magnificent Westminster Abbey. Since 1066 British royalty have been crowned, wed, and buried there. It is as much a museum as it is a church and, although pricey to enter, is well worth some time.

I must admit I resent paying a large fee to enter a church, believing that it should be open to the public without charge. I understand that these historical structures need constant care and maintenance and have no problem with donation requests, but the £20 admittance to St. Paul’s just seems outrageous. It is a huge and beautiful cathedral for sure. It’s 365-foot dome can be seen all over the city and its elaborate interior is a Baroque masterpiece. It just seems awfully expensive.

Tower of London

To explore how the British government works, the Houses of Parliament are interesting to visit, and for WWII history buffs, the nearby Churchill War Rooms provide a fascinating peek into Britain’s fight against the Nazis. For more war history, located on the south bank, the Imperial War Museum covers the wars from WWI to Afghanistan.

Royal watchers will enjoy Buckingham Palace which offers tours of a few rooms, but only in August and September when the Queen is out of town. And fans of pomp will enjoy the changing of the guard daily May through July and every other day August through April. 

Prior to Buckingham Palace, Kensington Palace was the royal residence. The palace has three main exhibits open to tourists.

 London Eye

A castle, a notorious prison and the crown jewels are all housed in one site, the Tower of London. A visit here is an entertaining time for the young and old alike. We took a boat to the tower which added a little extra fun and provided an up-close look at the iconic Tower Bridge.

The London Eye is a giant Ferris wheel located on the river’s south bank. It takes a half hour to rotate all the way around for a bird’s eye view of the city. As are most sites in London, it's very expensive.

It is a good idea to always look online for advance-purchase discounts, family packages or combo-tickets to save money. I’ll cover some of the interesting neighborhoods and easy side trips in future London posts.

Corn Sticks

Ever since I was a kid I have loved cornbread. My mother used to occasionally make and serve cornbread muffins instead of bread with dinner. I particularly enjoyed having the leftovers the next morning with strawberry jelly.

Last year I brought these fun, old-fashioned corn sticks to a Super Bowl party to accompany the chili being served. They were a big hit, especially along with a dollop of honey-butter that gives them a nice sweet flavor.

Since we aren't gathering this year for big parties, why not make some chili at home along with these fun corn sticks or corn muffins.

Corn Sticks
(Makes about 20 corn sticks.)

• 1 cup fine- or medium-ground cornmeal
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 large eggs
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
• 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen corn kernels

Preheat oven to 425°F.

Corn Sticks

Grease 2 cast-iron corn stick molds. Place in the oven until hot, about 10 minutes.

In a large bowl, stir together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.

In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and cream. Stir the milk mixture into the cornmeal mixture, then stir in the melted butter and corn kernels just until combined. The batter should be slightly lumpy.

Carefully remove the hot molds from the oven and place on a wire rack. Using a tablespoon, fill each mold almost full and lightly smooth the surface. Immediately return to the oven and bake until the tops are golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes.

Carefully remove the hot molds from the oven and invert onto a rack. Re-grease the pans, fill with the remaining batter and bake.

Serve the corn sticks warm or at room temperature. They are best when served on the same day they are made.

Great Britain - York, England

From Edinburgh we boarded a train to York, England. Upon arriving at the York station, we walked next door to the Principal York, truly a beautiful and grand hotel. This is the kind of place that makes you feel as though you have stepped back into a slower, more elegant, gentile time.

The Shambles

Our sleeping room was not as nice as the common spaces. The superior room was clean, but very small and stuffy as there was no air conditioning. If the windows were open, the train noise was bothersome. They sent up a fan and that helped us sleep. The view was disappointing too, looking out onto the train station roof, but all and all none of that really bothered us as it is what one would expect from an old hotel, and we spent little time in the room.

The staff members were all very nice and accommodating, and the hotel’s location was great for us as we came and went by train and took a side trip to Durham. It was an easy walk across the river into town.

York Minster

York is a delight to wander, either on one’s own or along with one of the free walking tours. There are lots of sites to visit, nice shops to browse, and pastry displays to drool over while enjoying the charming streets. One particularly unique street, in the city center, is the quaint and colorful Shambles. Once the home of butcher shops, it dates to Medieval times and is one of the most visited streets in all of Great Britain.

Stained Glass of York Minster

The York Minster, the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, sits proudly overlooking the town. To me, visiting a church is often better than visiting a museum as the “artwork” is situated where it was designed to be. This magnificent church is no exception and is well worth a visit from its floor to its ceiling and the exquisite nave, carvings, choir, stained glass and astronomical clock in between.

Ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey

Located in a lovely section of the town is the Yorkshire Museum. Three main areas make up the museum’s collection of artifacts: Roman, medieval, and natural history. My favorite part of the museum, however, are the gardens, especially the ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey, which dates to the 11th century before the great church became an abbey. There is something so peaceful and rather mesmerizing about this place, it is a definite must even if not visiting the museum.

The Jorvik Viking Centre is a fun museum meets Disneyland kind of place that can be enjoyed by the whole family. The museum houses a variety of Viking artifacts and sits above the actual excavation site. A people-mover takes visitors through the 975 village of Jorvik.

York's River Ouse

Quite an experience awaits visitors in the York Castle Museum. It is not what one would expect from its name. The museum houses period rooms from the 17th to the 20th century, incredible replicas of a Victorian and a 1960s street, a World War I exhibit and prison cells.

Clifford’s Tower, situated on a grassy knoll near the Castle Museum, is all that remains of York’s 13th-century castle. It isn’t really worth entering the tower, but it is a good hike up the stairs to see the structure up close and to enjoy a bit of a view.

National Railway Museum

Perhaps the pièce de resistance of all the fascinating sites, is the National Railway Museum. Situated close to the railway station, the museum is packed with historic rail cars, engines and more than 10,000 pieces of train travel memorabilia. The Great Hall includes trains from steam-powered to today’s Eurostar that zips through the Chunnel connecting Great Britain to mainland Europe.

York is packed with nice restaurants from casual to a bit more fancy. Our favorite was a wine bar called Pairings. With a nice array of cheese and charcutier platters, as well as other tasty snacks, it is easy to put together a delicious shared lunch or dinner in this popular place. The ambiance is pleasant and fun and the service is warm and friendly. We dined there twice we enjoyed it so much.

Eurostar Engine at the National Railway Museum

We just loved the town of York from its welcoming vibe, to its charming streets, interesting sites and good food. It would be a pleasure to return some time.

As a side trip we hopped the train to Durham one day. We found the town to be inviting with 'Durham Pointers' anxious to assist with information and directions. Our main reason for the visit was to see the Durham Cathedral but, unfortunately, there was a movie was being filmed. Scaffolding, equipment and people telling you to back off were everywhere, and most of the church's interior was curtained off. Since the cathedral was our reason for visiting Durham, we were disappointed. What we could see was lovely, but it wasn't much. Looking back, we should have checked to make sure it was fully open, but who would have thought the cathedral would be turned into a movie set?

Still Durham was a pleasant town to roam. We walked the hilly streets and the little Riverside Path. We then settled down in an inviting outdoor café, people watched and enjoyed a nice, relaxing lunch and a glass of wine. We will go back and see the cathedral some other day.