Belgium, A Visit to Bruges

From Amsterdam we traveled, via a stop in Antwerp, to Bruges, Belgium.

Peaceful Bruges

As early as the 11th century Bruges was a wealthy textile trading center. By the 14th century, sea trade linking the north and south of Europe brought even more prosperity to the town. Bruges became one of the biggest cities in the world, both in population and economic power. Commerce and the arts boomed through the 15th century, but by the 16th the harbor had silted up and along with it the city’s economy. Its Golden Age had collapsed.

The new port of Zeebrugge brought a renewed vitality in the 19th century, and from the 20th to the present Bruges has prospered as a popular tourist town. Despite its being a tourist mecca, Bruges is a great town to settle in, slow down, and just enjoy the ambiance of this charming, well-preserved Gothic city.

Cozy Public Room at the Grand Hotel Casselbergh Bruges

Upon arrival at the train station we set off on foot to our hotel. It would have been easier to take a taxi or a bus, like we did on our return, as rolling carry-on luggage over cobblestone streets in the rain was not the best idea we have ever had. Nonetheless, we arrived at the beautiful Grand Hotel Casselbergh Bruges, albeit a bit wet, within about twenty minutes.

We just loved this hotel right off the Burg, the location was perfect. We walked everywhere including all the way to the town of Damme. We had a room in the older part of the hotel for our 3-night stay. It was roomy, had a little sitting area, lots of light, comfy bed, and a nice modern bath with both a shower and a tub.

Tour Boats are Plentiful throughout Bruges

The many public areas were delightful and exquisitely furnished … taking one back to bygone days. While each room had a pleasant area to relax, as it was cold and rainy during our stay, our favorite spot was off the bar in front of the cozy fireplace. The wine and drink prices were reasonable, and it was nice to be able to sip a cocktail or some wine before venturing out to dine or before retiring for the evening.

For a hotel this size, there are 118 rooms, it had a very intimate and personal feeling to it … almost bed and breakfast like. WiFi connections were available free of charge and worked well. Located in a nice dining room, the bountiful breakfast was a treat and was included with our reasonable rate. The only negative during our stay was a conference that started our last night. It was quite noisy in the bar area and there was no place for other guests to sit. I can see how the hotel could easily be taken over by conference attendees, pushing out vacationers.

Gothic Town Hall in Burg Square

Easily walkable, Bruges is delightful to wander. The town itself is the best site but, of course, there are several fine tours and attractions to keep visitors busy. A popular way to see the town is by hopping on one of the canal boats for a 30-minute tour. Also popular are minibus, bike, and walking tours … although the latter two can be done on one’s own.

If just day tripping to Bruges, it is best not to go on a Monday as most museums are closed. For those visiting longer, Monday is the day to plan outdoor activities, a tour, or some shopping.

Upper Chapel, Basilica of the Holy Blood

For those planning to see several of the town’s sites, it is a good idea to check out the discount passes and combo tickets available to save a little money. Speaking of money, Belgium is part of the European Union, actually the EU is headquartered in Brussels, and the Euro (€) is the country’s currency.

We were staying near Burg Square, the birthplace of Bruges, so we started our exploration there. For centuries the Burg has been the power center of the city. Where once a 9th-century fortress stood, the present majestic buildings were constructed over six centuries and represent a variety of architectural styles from Gothic to Renaissance to Neo-Classical.

The city council still resides in the 14th-century Gothic Town Hall or Stadhuis. It is, perhaps, the most beautiful building in Bruges and one of the oldest in the Low Countries. On another side of the square sits an elegant Baroque-style building called the Deanery, which was originally the house of the deans of St. Donatius Church.

Market Square

In a corner of the square stands the ornately decorated façade of the Basilica of the Holy Blood. The Basilica consists of two chapels, a Romanesque lower chapel, and a Gothic upper chapel. The lower chapel is quite plain with little decoration, while the upper chapel is full of color and detail. The Basilica was so named because it houses a relic from The Crucifixion, a vial containing a small piece of cloth said to be stained with drops of the blood of Jesus.

Next to the Basilica are brasseries and restaurants offering food, drinks, and the ambience of the beautiful square.

The Burg may be the most historic square, but the Market Square, Markt, with its iconic bell tower dating back to 1300, is the more modern heart of the city. Gabled buildings and restaurants with outdoor terraces make for a charming place to sit and enjoy the people passing by.

Michelangelo's Madonna and Child

The Groenige Museum houses a wonderful collection of mainly Flemish art. The Gruuthuse Museum was the 15th-century home of a wealthy brewer. It houses a diverse collection of decorative arts from the 13th to the 19th century.

Memling Museum/St. John’s Hospital is one of the oldest hospitals in Europe, dating back to the mid-12th century. A visit to the medieval wards, as well as the church and the chapel, rewards with an impressive collection of archives, art works, medical instruments and seven works of art by Hans Memling.

The Begijnhof with its white painted facades and tranquil monastery garden was founded in 1245. In this quiet oasis lived the beguines, lay women who did not take vows but still lived a pious and celibate life. Today the Begijnhof is inhabited by nuns of the Order of Saint Benedict and single Bruges women.

Minnewater

The towering brick steeple of the Church of Our Lady dominates the city’s skyline. It took two centuries (13th-15th) to build the church. Among the many art treasures is a beautiful Carrara marble Madonna and Child sculpture carved by Michelangelo. It is believed to be the only Michelangelo statue to leave Italy in his lifetime.

Tucked away at the southern end of Bruges is the park known as "Minnewater." The park's centerpiece is the scenic "Lake of Love.” This tranquil area, within the confines of the city, is a great place to see some local wildlife, including the graceful swans that are a symbol of city.

View toward Bruges from Damme Canal

A 15-minute stroll from the town center takes visitors to four windmills located along the “Big Moat” canal. For a longer hike or bike ride, the level Damme Canal path is very pleasant.

We followed this path all the way to Damme on foot and returned to Bruges by boat. The Damme Canal was built by Napoleon in 1811. Just outside of Damme sits another windmill. The Schelle Windmill is an actual working windmill dating back to 1867.

It is said that Damme is a smaller version of Bruges, I’m not sure I would go quite that far, but it is a quaint, enjoyable town that has its own Church of Our Lady, City Hall and a St. John’s Hospital. It's a nice place to walk, bike or boat to; then walk around and enjoy a little lunch.

We loved Bruges and the surrounding area. The only negative of our trip was the cold, damp weather. But even that could not spoil our time there. Our next stop in Belgium, and final stop of our trip, will be Brussels, but first we will take a little detour to the town of Lille in France.