Exploring Copenhagen, Denmark

As mentioned in my Malmö, Sweden post, we flew from Cologne to Copenhagen and then took the train from the airport directly to Malmö rather than spending our first night in Copenhagen. It was a great opportunity to see a bit of another country, and it was so easy. I would highly recommend visiting Malmö as a side trip, even if not interested in spending the night. It is a delightful town and much less busy than Copenhagen.

Bustling Copenhagen

We took the same train into downtown Copenhagen that we took from the airport the day before to get to Malmö. Our hotel was within walking distance of the train station, making the journey a snap.

Denmark is the smallest Scandinavian country now, but in the 16th century it was the largest. Copenhagen is the country’s capital and the gateway to Scandinavia. Like Sweden, Denmark is part of the Europe Union but uses its own currency, the Danish krone (DKK).

Copenhagen is a large city but its core, where most visitors spend their time, is fairly compact and very walkable. The city offers lots of transportation options including metro, buses, taxis, and boats. Another excellent option is to join the locals by renting a bike. The ubiquitous hop on and off tour buses are a good way to get the lay of the land before starting out or if only in town a short while. We enjoyed walking everywhere whether heading to a tourist site or simply wandering about.

Canal View with Our Savior’s Church's Spiral Spire in Background

One tour we did take and enjoy was a canal and harbor cruise from the Nyhavn district. The Netto cruises are much less expensive than the Canal Tours Copenhagen and there doesn’t seem to be enough of a difference to justify the extra cost. The one-hour tour glides along the canals past some interesting sites, such as the very modern opera house, and provides a different vantage point to view the statue of The Little Mermaid. It’s a nice and relaxing way to while away a little time in a hectic city.

Copenhagen’s main square and heart of the city is City Hall Square, Rådhuspladsen. The dominant building is the City Hall, Rådhus. The City Hall is an important and historical landmark, and the building’s interior and garden are free for the public to tour.

Christiansborg Palace

Fine museums can be found all over Copenhagen. The country’s top art gallery is Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. The gallery’s collection includes a variety of interesting pieces from ancient artifacts to more modern art. Denmark’s history is traced from its ancient beginnings through the chronologically laid out exhibits at the National Museum of Denmark.

I always enjoy visiting a city’s museum. Big or small, these local museums are always an interesting look into the history of the town from its beginnings to present day. The Museum of Copenhagen is no exception, it begins on the ground floor, which covers the city’s origins, and moves up the floors ending at the top with a walk through 20th century Copenhagen.

 

Rosenborg Castle

The sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen’s works are showcased at the Thorvaldsen’s Museum. The museum opened in 1848 as Denmark’s first public art gallery. Most of this prolific artist’s statues can be found here, and they are quite beautiful.

Christiansborg Palace is a compound of government buildings that sit atop the ruins of the original 12th-century fortress. The current palace is fairly new, dating to 1928. There are three sites that are open to the public; the reception rooms, the old castle ruins, and the stables.

Built as a summer residence by King Christian IV in the early 1600s, Rosenborg Castle, Rosenborg Slot, is a fine building to tour for its architectural details, tapestries, decorative objects including a fine porcelain collection, furnishings, artwork, and the pièce de resistance … the crown jewels in the Royal Danish Treasury.

The Little Mermaid

Even more appealing to some are the pretty Rosenborg Gardens. When the royal family is in residence, there is a small changing-of-the-guard march that takes place from the guard’s barracks near the gardens to Amalienborg Palace. Amalienborg Palace is the home of Queen Margrethe II and her husband. The palace compound includes the Amalienborg Museum, which offers visitors a glimpse into the life of the royal family.

The statue of The Little Mermaid was a gift to the city in 1909 from the wealthy brewing magnate, Carl Jacobsen, who was also responsible for the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek collection. The statue gained notoriety after the 1952 movie, Hans Christian Andersen. It is now the most recognized symbol of Copenhagen.

Nyhavn

The New Harbor, Nyhavn, used to be a gritty sailors’ quarter back in the day. It is now a trendy, bustling area full of fun and pricey bars and restaurants with outdoor dining. For those not wishing to pay the high bar prices, Copenhagen allows people to enjoy their beers sitting canal-side while watching the boats and people go by.

Pipe Organ of Our Savior’s Church

Across the harbor from old town Copenhagen is the district of Christianshavn. Once the merchant’s district, it is now a trendy neighborhood offering fine restaurants, a few sites, and pleasant places to stroll. The most popular site is Our Savior’s Church, Vor Frelsers Kirke. The church stands out in the skyline because of its unique spiral spire, which can be climbed for a wonderful city view. The inside houses a delicate 1696 Baroque interior and an incredible pipe organ that also dates to the late 1600s.

Tivoli Gardens

If there is a grande dame of amusement parks, it has to be Tivoli Gardens. The park has been a source of amusement and wonder since 1843. Yes, there are great rides, but there is also a wide variety of entertainment to enjoy, much of it free with entry. Even if not interested in rides; restaurants, beautiful grounds, water features and enchanting lighting make for a pleasant day or evening. We spent our last night here. Even though it was closing for the season and raining a bit, it was magical.

Scandinavia is quite expensive, and Copenhagen is no exception. Getting the tab for a simple meal of an opened-faced sandwich and a glass of wine was jaw-dropping. Like most cities, it is best to dine away from the popular spots, but it is hard to resist having a bite to eat or a drink in the picturesque Nyhavn area.

Tivoli Gardens' Lanterns

We stayed at the Absalon Hotel and, although popular, we didn’t care for it much. We found the staff to not be particularly welcoming or friendly. I could go on about the problems and some rudeness we encountered but suffice it to say we would not stay there again or recommend to others. We were there a while ago, so I'm assuming it has improved since then.

The city is extremely busy, and its sites are overrun with busloads of tourists that swarm in and take over. To photograph The Little Mermaid without people climbing all over it and taking endless pictures was a feat.

Overall we enjoyed our visit to Copenhagen and Malmö. We tend to favor southern Europe and smaller towns, but it's a pleasure to experience the beauty and diversity of different regions and cities.