Netherlands, Day Tripping to Delft

I love Amsterdam, but it is very large, very busy, and very full of tourists. If staying for a while, it’s nice to get away for a day or two and explore some of the nearby smaller and quieter cities and towns. There are many nice choices, but we decided to spend a day in the sweet little town of Delft.

Canal

From Amsterdam we took the train from Centraal Station to the Delft Station, and within about an hour we were in the center of town. With its charming square, picturesque canals, new and old churches, bicycle racks, and café-lined streets, Delft is a tiny, more peaceful version of Amsterdam.

Delft sits along a canal between Rotterdam and The Hague. The town was founded in 1075 and was officially chartered in 1246. A fire severely damaged Delft in 1536, and it was once again badly damaged, this time by a gun powder explosion, in 1654. During the 16th and 17th centuries the town was a trading center made famous for its blue and white earthenware, Delftware.

The town is now a popular tourist destination. In addition to its Delftware, it is known for having been home to the painter Johannes Vermeer and for the Delft University of Technology.

Unless a big fan of Delftware pottery, there aren’t any real blockbuster sites to visit, the town itself is the main attraction. The Markt, or market square, is the center of town. It showcases the Stadhuis, city hall, at one end and the Nieuwe Kerk, new church, at the other. Cafés, boutiques, and souvenir shops lay in between.

Stadhuis (City Hall)

Dating from 1618, the Stadhuis, located at the west end of market square, features dormer windows with distinctive red shutters and a golden shell motif. The original medieval building was mostly destroyed in the fire of 1536 except for the looming stone tower.

The Nieuwe Kerk stands opposite the Stadhuis. It is only new by comparison with the Oude Kerk, old church. There has been a church on the same spot since 1381. The original church was mostly destroyed in the great fire.

The Oude Kerk began as a wooden structure in 1050. It eventually evolved into the large building with the gothic tower that is seen today. The church has beautiful stained-glass windows and two organs. It holds several mausoleums and graves of well-known Dutch citizens, including the painter Vermeer.

Oude Kerk (Old Church)

Delft was an important center for artists in the late 17th century. It is said to have been Delft where the Dutch Golden Age of painting came about. It is the birthplace of the above-mentioned Vermeer, best known for his work depicting women in their everyday life, including Girl with the Pearl Earring.

The Vermeer Centrum chronicles the personal and family history of the painter. Reproductions of all his works are on display, but don’t expect any original artwork. The building was once the site of a craft guild to which Vermeer and his father belonged.

Originally built as a monastery in the Middle Ages, the Prinsenhof later served as a residence for William the Silent (aka William of Orange) who was murdered in the Prinsenhof in 1584. Now a municipal museum, the bullet holes can still be seen in the wall by the main stairs. The museum houses a premiere collection of works from the Dutch Golden Age of painting. Collections of textiles, silver and ceramics are also on display.

Delightful Cafés Abound in Delft

For lovers of Delftware, a pleasant 15-minute stroll brings visitors to the Royal Delftware Museum and Factory. Delftware was invented in Delft in the 1500s, and the Royal Delftware Factory is the last to produce the pottery by hand.

The museum’s exhibits follow the history of the once thriving industry until it was curtailed by competing European manufacturers. By the 1900s, only a handful of factories were still making Delftware by hand as mass market production dragged prices down.

On display is a large collection of elaborately decorated vases, plates, and tableware from different centuries. A portion of the factory allows visitors to view the step-by-step process of porcelain making. A series of booths showcase artisans painting objects by hand prior to final glazing.

Treats at the Market

Of course, there is a gift shop offering an assortment of traditional Delftware, along with some contemporary pieces, for purchase. Buyers choose from an array of dining pieces, home accessories, and jewelry. In holiday season, a special gallery is dedicated to Christmas ornaments and gifts.

A variety of dining choices beckon in the square and along the charming canals. Delft is also a good place to buy some food specialties of Holland. Gouda Cheese and Dutch chocolate are some of the most recognized and mouth-watering treats.

We loved our visit to Delft, it was a pleasant break from the hubbub of Amsterdam and would strongly recommend a side trip here, or any nearby small town.