Honey Carrot Cake

I often bake sweet goods for people who prefer not to eat processed sugar. It's hard to find or come up with good recipes that don't include white or brown sugar, the taste and texture are often lacking. Because recipes for baked goods are formulas, it's not that simple to substitute a liquid sweetener such as honey, maple syrup or molasses, because it changes the makeup and consistency of the dough and throws the recipe off. 

Sugar not only adds sweetness, it also adds tenderness and fineness to the texture; weakens gluten, making breads and cakes more tender; gives cookies, quick breads and cakes color; retains moisture for a longer shelf life; and provides food for yeast.

I have found that the moist cakes made with vegetables or fruit, like carrots or bananas, do well with honey. This carrot cake tastes as good as the real thing, and the cream cheese and honey frosting is as tasty as using powdered sugar. It's quick and easy to make too.

Honey Carrot Cake
(Serves 8.)

• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs
• 1 cup sifted flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1 cup grated carrots
• 3/4 cup chopped pecans or walnuts
• Cream Cheese & Honey Frosting, recipe follows

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Honey Carrot Cake

In a medium bowl, beat the honey and oil together until smooth and creamy. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until well blended.

In a separate small bowl, mix the flour with the salt, baking soda, cinnamon, and ground cloves. Add flour mixture to creamed mixture and stir until mixed. Fold in the carrots and nuts.

Pour batter into a greased 9-inch square or round cake pan. Bake for about 30 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Cool 10 minutes in the pan then reverse onto a cake rack. Cool completely before frosting.

Cream Cheese & Honey Frosting
• 8 ounces cream cheese
• 1/3 cup butter
• 1/2 cup honey
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat the cream cheese and butter until smooth. Add the honey and mix well. Add the vanilla and beat until frosting is light and smooth.

Side Trip to Bratislava, Slovakia

We had visited Vienna, Austria in the winter and it was absolutely magical. The beautiful lights, the Christmas markets, the charming window displays, and the overall joy of the season combined for a wonderful time. We did miss out on the warm weather activities though, so we planned to return in the summer one day.

Streets of Bratislava

A few years later we did return on an Austrian vacation. We booked extra days in Vienna to have plenty of time for a little day tripping. Our first trip outside the city was to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia.

Slovakia was not on our bucket list but, with its capital sitting so close to Vienna, the decision to spend a day there was a no brainer. Being able to visit a new country from a base in another is an extra travel bonus. Day tripping is such a great way to explore, especially if it is to a place one would not otherwise visit. We chose to go on a Sunday as there are many more shops and places open in Bratislava on Sundays than there are in Vienna.

Slovakia is part of the European Union and is a Schengen state, meaning there is borderless travel to other Schengen states, making the trip from Vienna, also within a Schengen state, a breeze. The country uses the Euro (€), so there is no need to exchange currency while there.

St. Michael's Gate

We took the train from Vienna’s main station to Bratislava’s Hlavná Stanica, which is within walking distance to the old town. The other station, Petržalka, is located in the suburbs and is less convenient for tourists wanting to visit the old town. It is an easy trip, lasting only about an hour.

During the communist era, Bratislava’s old center was neglected and run-down. Toward the end of the 1990s, ten years after the fall of communism, the town began a revitalization. The old town’s buildings were fixed up and the streets were pedestrianized, creating the charming center it is today.

There are a few sites worth seeing, but Bratislava’s main attraction is the town itself. From wandering the lanes lined with colorful buildings to popping into a posh boutique to enjoying a coffee at a lively outdoor café; the old town center is the reason to visit.

St. Michael's Gate, Michalská Brána, is the only preserved city gate from the medieval fortifications. It is among the oldest buildings in town. The roof of the original gothic tower was built in the mid-14th century and was modified between 1753 and 1758 giving it its current baroque style. The 51-meters tall tower has seven floors and offers a sweeping view from the upper terrace.

Old Town Hall

Michalská Street, the main drag through the gate, is made for strolling with its shops, restaurants, and cafés. Inviting passages, courtyards, nooks and crannies are worth a peek, and some entice with more coffee shops and small boutiques.

The Main Square, Hlavné Námestie, marks the center of Bratislava’s old town. The pretty fountain honors the coronation of Maximilian II, when Slovakia was part of Hungary and under Hapsburg rule. The Old Town Hall, with its yellow tower, dominates the square. The hall's passageway leads to a beautifully restored courtyard and the entrance to the City History Museum, Múzeum Mesta Bratislavy.

Schöner Náci

I’ve often mentioned how much I enjoy a city museum. They are usually well done, have a reasonably priced admittance, are rich with artifacts and exhibits, and provide a good chronological understanding of a city’s history. Bratislava’s city museum is no exception and worth a stop.

Continuing through the courtyard sits Primate’s Square, Primaciálne Námestie, and Primate’s Palace, Primaciálny Palác. Dating from 1781, the palace is a restored French-Neoclassical mansion which was once used as the archbishop’s residence. It is now the new town hall and boasts one floor of exhibits including state rooms, paintings, and tapestries.

Čumil

Classic cafés line the main square including Kaffee Mayer, which has been selling baked goods and coffee since 1873. In front of the Kaffee stands one of Bratislava’s beloved whimsical statues, Schöner Náci. The statue of the man tipping his hat pays tribute to one of the town’s characters from years past.

Restaurants & Cafés Abound

Laurinská Street is the town’s fashion hub and entices with fun, unique boutiques perfect for finding gifts or to do a little personal shopping. Further down one finds another bit of whimsy, the Čumil, a statue of a playful little guy popping out of a manhole.

The Old Market Hall, Stará Tržnica, was built in 1910. It still houses a busy market on Saturdays and is also a popular venue for concerts. Market square is a bustling outdoor gathering spot for all to enjoy.

For a taste of Slovakian modern art, the Nedbalka showcases a comprehensive collection from the late 1800s up to the present in a multi-level gallery.

As mentioned above, restaurants and cafés abound in Old Town Bratislava. A day trip should definitely include a leisurely meal outdoors on a lovely square, a cozy cobbled alley, or a tree-lined street.

We spent a most enjoyable day in Bratislava. We weren’t sure what to expect, but we found the town to be charming and the people friendly and welcoming. It is such an easy trip from Vienna, there is no reason not to go and have a pleasant day away from the crowds.

Salmon Cakes with Red Pepper Cream

We love wild salmon ... baked, grilled, smoked, sushi ... we eat it once or twice a week. Notice I mentioned "wild" salmon, as I don't buy farm-raised. There is a big debate over wild versus farmed-raised. Some claim, while wild salmon is very good for you, farmed is not a healthy choice. Others claim there is no difference between the two.

So it is a matter of preference, but I prefer the wild. I find it to be more flavorful and I don't like the idea that the farmed salmon is fed unnatural man-made pellets that include red dye to recreate the red color found naturally in wild salmon.

Moving on ... sometimes I bake a larger piece of salmon than we need for dinner. When I have these leftovers, I wrap them up and toss them in the freezer. Later, when in need of something tasty and easy for dinner, I thaw out the salmon and make these salmon cakes.

They are absolutely delightful, and I can't think of a better way to use up leftover cooked salmon. The red pepper cream is icing on the cake. 

Salmon Cakes with Red Pepper Cream
(Serves 6 as a main course or 12 as a starter.)

• 1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves
• 4 green onions, or 3 shallots
• 2 cups fine fresh bread crumbs
• 2 eggs
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 pound of flaked cooked salmon
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Vegetable oil for sautéing
• Red Pepper Cream (recipe follows)

Salmon Cakes with Red Pepper Cream

Combine the parsley and onions or shallots in a food processor and chop fine. Add 1 cup of the bread crumbs, the eggs, melted butter, mayonnaise, mustard and lemon juice. Pulse on/off several times until well mixed. Add the salmon and process briefly to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or as long as overnight.

Shape the chilled salmon mixture into 12 round or oval patties about 1/4 to 1/3 inch thick. Dip them in the remaining bread crumbs, patting to coat all sides completely. Let stand for 5 minutes.

Preheat the oven to warm, about 200. Line a baking sheet or ovenproof dish with several of paper towels.

Heat 1/4 inch of vegetable oil in a large sauté pan or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the patties, a few at a time, turning once, until golden and crisp on each side, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove with a slotted spatula to the paper-lined baking sheet and place in the oven to keep warm. Cook the remaining patties, adding more oil as needed. Serve as soon as all the patties are cooked, with the Red Pepper Cream, or sauce of your choosing.

Tip: Form the salmon mixture into bite-sized balls, sauté and pass on a tray with toothpicks and a sauce for dipping.

Red Pepper Cream
(Makes about 1 1/2 cups, enough for 4 to 6 servings.)
• 1 jar of roasted sweet red peppers (about 4 peppers), roughly chopped
• 2 cups heavy (whipping) cream
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a saucepan, combine the peppers and cream over medium heat and cook until the cream is reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return to saucepan and reheat over low heat before serving.

Tip: Instead of roasted red peppers, grill or broil 4 or 5 large vine-ripened tomatoes until soft. Peel, seed and chop the tomatoes. Add to the cream and finish as above.

Black Bean, Corn & Chicken Salad

As the days are getting warmer, lighter meals and salads are the way go. This is a very versatile and tasty dish that is just packed full of good, healthy ingredients. Instead of a salad, add some cheese and make quesadillas. Leave out the chicken and serve as a side dish or a dip with corn chips, or use as a topping for chicken or fish... anything goes.

Black Bean, Corn & Chicken Salad

(Serves 8.)

• 2 cups cooked or thawed frozen corn kernels

• 1 13-ounce can black beans, rinsed & drained

• 4 scallions, thinly sliced

• 1 red, yellow or orange bell pepper, cored, seeded & diced

• 3 cups cooked white-meat chicken, cut into bite-size pieces

• Juice of 2 limes (about 3 tablespoons)

• 1/4 cup olive oil

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• Salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Tortilla chips (optional)

• 1 avocado, peeled & diced (optional)

Spicy Black Bean, Corn and Chicken Salad

In a large bowl, combine the corn, black beans, scallions, bell pepper, chicken, lime juice, olive oil, cumin and salt and pepper to taste, stirring well.

Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes or up to 1 day ahead.

Before serving, stir to redistribute the dressing.

Serve with tortilla chips and diced avocado, if desired.

Hot Artichoke Dip

This is an easy and delicious spread that everyone seems to like. It is, perhaps, my favorite of all the dips and spreads I make. The Worcestershire and hot sauces lend a nice kick to the tangy artichoke hearts.

Hot Artichoke Dip
(Makes 1 3/4 cups.)

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise 

• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 

• 1/4 cup fresh Italian parsley, chopped 

• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 

• 4 drops hot pepper sauce 

• 1 can (8 1/2 ounces drained weight) water-packed artichoke hearts, drained and chopped coarse 

Heat oven to 350°F.

Hot Artichoke Dip

Mix mayonnaise, Parmesan cheese, parsley, Worcestershire sauce and hot pepper sauce in a medium bowl until well blended. Fold in artichokes. 

Spoon into ungreased 2-cup oven-proof serving dish. Bake 20 minutes or until dip is hot and bubbly. Serve with crackers or toast.

Belgium, Brussels

Brussels was the last stop on our visit to the Netherlands and Belgium, with a detour to Lille, France. It took no time to reach the city center from Lille by train and we easily walked from Brussel-Centraal to our hotel.

Room at The Dominican Brussels

We stayed at The Dominican Brussels and loved everything about our stay. Conveniently located, we were able to walk to and from the train station and to all the sights in both the lower and upper areas of Brussels. Not only did a friendly and efficient staff let us check in early, which is always appreciated, they gave us an upgrade as well.

Our room on the 5th floor was delightful. It was large with a comfortable king-sized bed, sitting area, work desk and two window seats where I loved to read and relax after sightseeing. The bathroom was large and modern with both a tub and a rain shower, and there was a walk-in closet with room for luggage, something unusual, especially for a European hotel. The bar/lounge area was very nice, again with a pleasant staff. The wine was reasonably priced and we enjoyed a selection of tasty appetizers one evening.

A Little Brussels Whimsy

Being the capital of Belgium, the seat of the European Union, and the headquarters of NATO, Brussels is quite the international city. Although it sits in the Flemish-speaking region of Flanders, French is spoken in Brussels. Visitors should know some French but due to its status as the de facto head of Europe, with businesspeople and dignitaries coming and going, English is widely used as the default language. 

If staying a few days and interested in visiting the major sights, a Brussels Card provides visitors with unlimited public transportation and entrance to most museums. If only visiting for a day, it would probably not be worth purchasing the card. Like so many cities, most of the major museums are closed on Mondays.

Also like most major cities, Brussels has hop on and off tourist buses and a good transportation system consisting of métro, buses, trams, and trains. A single ticket is good for one hour on all public transportation. The ticket must be validated in the orange machines every time it is used. Of course, taxis are available but can be expensive.

Grand Place

The best sight in Brussels is free. The Grand Place is the main square and the heart of the old town. In addition to the elegant buildings, lots of activities and people-watching make the square a fun place to hang out and enjoy a beer or a meal.

Going back 1000 years, the Grand Place was once a bustling market square with farmers and merchants selling their wares in open-air stalls. Today, cafés and shops line the square offering waffles, mussels, fries, beer, chocolates, and flowers.

Swan House

The Hôtel de Ville, Town Hall, is the grandest of buildings within the Grand Place. Its 300-foot tower, topped with a golden stature of St. Michael, looms high above. Next door sits the Swan House, now an expensive restaurant, and the Brewers’ Guild, now the Brewery Museum.

Opposite the Town Hall stands the Maison du Roi, King’s House, which the once-ruling Habsburgs used as an administrative center. It now houses a City Museum. The museum displays a chronological history of the city including a short film, maps, and models. Tapestries, paintings, and other decorative items are also on display as are the original statues that once bejeweled the Town Hall. Costumes made for the little Manneken-Pis statue take up an entire room.

No Lack of Places to Dine

The Galeries Royales St. Hubert is Europe’s oldest shopping mall. Built in 1847, the elegant glass-covered mall inspired the creation of similar styled galleries in other capitals around Europe. The table-packed Rue des Bouchers is amazing with its never-ending line of restaurants. I wouldn’t necessarily dine here, but its fun to run the gauntlet and ogle the variety of cuisines.

Built in 1873 on the former site of the 13th-century Convent des Recollets is the Bourse, or Stock Exchange. Ruins from the convent can be seen under the glass to the right of the Bourse. Several attractive and historic Art Nouveau cafés cluster around the Place de la Bourse. It is in this square where the city’s celebrations and demonstrations often take place.

Manneken-Pis

Probably the most famous sight of all in Brussels is, rather unfortunately, the statue of a little boy peeing, hence the name Manneken-Pis. Easy to miss in an unremarkable setting, the statue is quite small, under two feet tall. Created in 1619, the water fountain originally provided drinking water to the neighborhood. The wee lad has hundreds of outfits housed in the city’s museum and is often dressed in one of them, although the day we were there he was stark naked.

Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula

The Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule, Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula, is a lovely Gothic-style church. The construction of the church was started at the beginning of the 13th century. It took almost 300 years to complete the enormous undertaking.

The restoration of the nave, which lasted from 1983 to 1989, restored the stones and vaults and the stained-glass windows to their former splendor. It also uncovered remarkably preserved remains of the 11th-century Romanesque church on which the current structure is built. The remains are available for viewing in the cathedral’s basement.

Royal Palace

The elegant Upper Town with its wide streets, plantings and fountains is where visitors will find Brussels’ palaces and museums. The Palais Royale, Royal Palace, is made up of what was once a row of mansion-sized townhouses. To create the palace, a façade was erected linking the houses together to make one massive building. The Palace is where the King, Queen and important government heads have offices. Lavish receptions are held in the state rooms and the apartments are used to house foreign Heads of State during their official visits. Adjacent to the palace, the BELvue Museum explains the history of Belgium and the royal family.

Major court cases are tried at the Palais de Justice, Palace of Justice. The marble building with its huge dome covers more than six acres and dominates the Brussels skyline.

Notre-Dame du Sablon Church

The Notre-Dame du Sablon Church is best known for its eleven beautiful stained-glass windows. The light that streams from the windows creates a beautiful glow that illuminates the nave and encircles the altar. Another interesting feature of the church is the carved wooden pulpit made in 1697. Otherwise, the interior of the church is attractive but rather plainly decorated.

The Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts de Belgique, Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, covers the history of Western painting. The museum is made up of three buildings, each a museum in their own right. I was looking forward to visiting this museum but was disappointed. First of all, the “modern” part was completely closed at the time. Secondly, renovations also closed other parts of the museum. And finally, as we started to walk into one set of galleries, a man closed and locked the door without explanation, leaving many people wondering what was going on and why we were being denied access.

Art Nouveau Musical Instruments Museum

So all and all, we only saw a very small portion of the museum for our admission price. My husband likes Brueghel and they have a room with several paintings, which we enjoyed … but otherwise, I cannot rave about this place, it hardly took any time at all to go through what was open. Maybe someday we will return and be able to see it all.

The Musée des Instruments de Musique, Musical Instruments Museum, dates to 1877. It was originally attached to the Royal Conservatory of Music to provide students the opportunity to see examples of old musical instruments. Now housed in the former Old England department store, a fine example of Art Nouveau design, the collection contains over 7,000 instruments from the Middle Ages to the present day.

Great food can be found all over Brussels. Our hotel directed us to Scheltema one night for dinner. We had hoped to have mussels but, unfortunately, they were out of season. We both ordered the duck breast, which was not fancy but nicely presented. They were both cooked perfectly and were very tasty. The servings were generous, and we enjoyed every bite.

Duck Breast at Scheltema 

Don’t expect to be pampered, the service was a little brusque, but friendly. The prices were a a bit higher than expected from a casual restaurant not in the tourist zone, but probably on a par with their competitors. We rarely order dessert, but they brought a huge box of light, buttery cookies and told us to enjoy however many we wanted. We did sample a couple, and they were delicious and a nice little bonus. Would recommend for a simple night out away from the tourists.

We enjoyed Brussels and all the towns we visited in the north of continental Europe. Traveling by train was a breeze, there were no communication problems, and the people were friendly and generous with their time and information. We had bad weather, but it didn’t spoil our time or hide the beauty of these beautiful cities.

Pastry-Wrapped Baked Brie with Mushrooms

Speaking of France and French food, I love Brie cheese and also enjoy mushrooms and just about anything wrapped in puff pastry. This impressive pastry-wrapped baked Brie has it all in one tidy package.

One of my favorite hors d'oeuvres, the Brie is runny and delicious, and the presentation is impressive when decorated with pastry cutouts and served with apple and pear slices. It is super easy to make too.

Pastry-Wrapped Baked Brie with Mushrooms
(Makes 8 servings per round of Brie.)

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1/2 sweet onion, cut in a small dice
• 1 1/2 cups cleaned and sliced mix of fresh mushrooms (such as shiitake, oyster, button and baby bella mushrooms)
• 1 tablespoon dry sherry (can substitute dry red wine or beef broth)
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 3/4 teaspoon snipped fresh tarragon or 1/8 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves, crushed
• Dash pepper
• 2 tablespoons fine dry breadcrumbs
• 1 17 1/4-oz. pkg. frozen puff pastry (2 sheets), thawed
• 2 - 3 1/4 inch whole Brie rounds
• 1 well beaten egg
• 1 tablespoon water
• Bread slices, crackers, apple and pear wedges

Pastry-Wrapped Baked Brie with Mushrooms

Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent. Add mushrooms, cook until tender. Stir in the sherry, Worcestershire sauce, tarragon, and pepper. Cook, uncovered until liquid is evaporated, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Stir in breadcrumbs. Cool.

On a lightly floured surface, unfold one sheet of puff pastry. Gently roll out and cut a 9- to 9 1/2-inch circle, saving trimmings. Spread half of the mushroom filling in the middle of the pastry to a circle the size of the Brie. Place one Brie round atop mushroom filling.

Mushroom Filling

Combine beaten egg and water. Brush some of the mixture atop pastry circle around Brie. Wrap the pastry up and over the Brie, folding and pleating to cover the top of the Brie. Trim off excess pastry so that pleats are not too thick. Press dough to seal. 

Carefully invert the Brie onto a greased shallow baking pan. Brush pastry with more of the egg mixture. If desired, cut reserved dough trimmings into shapes and use to decorate top of pastry. Brush cutouts with egg mixture. Cut a couple of small slits for the steam to escape. Repeat with remaining sheet of pastry, mushroom filling, and Brie round. Chill both Brie rounds, covered, for 2 to 4 hours.

Bake in a 400°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until pastry is golden brown. Let stand for 20 to 30 minutes before serving. Serve warm with bread slices, crackers, apples and pears wedges.

French Food Glossary

As I often suggest, it is always a good idea to arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible before heading off to a foreign country. In addition to learning a few of the country's useful words and phrases, it will also come in handy to know some culinary words to better understand local menus in order to best enjoy the experience. Since I just wrote about our trip to Lille, France, I decided to post this little French food glossary. (To be able to use all the alphabet links and view the entire glossary, click on "read more.")

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

Abati’s – Giblets
Abdelavis – Jerusalem melon
Abricot – Apricot
Acajou – Cashew
Agneau – Lamb
Agneau de lait – Baby milk-fed lamb
Agrume – citrus
Algue – seaweed
Aligot – potatoes mashed with fresh mountain cheese
Aiglefin – Haddock
Aiguillat – Dog fish
Aiguillette – breast meat
Ail – Garlic
Ailloli – Garlicky mayonnaise
Algue – Seaweed (often edible)
Amande – Almond
Amuse-bouche – Appetizer
Ananas – Pineapple
Anchois – Anchovies
Andouillette – Pork sausage
Aneth – Dill
Anguille – Eel (anguille de mer is a conger eel), a common dish in Bordeaux
Apéritif – Pre-dinner drink
Arachide – Peanut
Araignée de Mer – Spider crab
Artichaut – Artichoke
Asperge – Asparagus
Aubergine – Aubergine, eggplant
Autruche – Ostrich
Avocat – Avocado
Avoine – Oat

France, A Detour to Lille

Can’t honestly remember why we detoured to Lille, France for a couple of days between our visits to Bruges and Brussels, but we did. I have visited France nearly a dozen times and have traveled all over the country, but I found Lille to be different than any other French city. Sure, there are influences of other countries in the different regions of France, but Lille in the Nord region, with its majestic buildings, had a very distinct Belgium feel, like a smaller Brussels.

Lounge/Bar at L'Hermitage Gantois, Autograph Collection

We stayed at L'Hermitage Gantois, Autograph Collection. We liked this quirky hotel, it is a great mix of the very old and new. We arrived mid-day and were promptly taken to our room in the older part of the hotel. As our lovely escort opened our rather crooked door, she announced that we had received a room upgrade. It was indeed a nice, large room, and it was also the most unusual hotel room we’ve ever been in. We entered an area with a wardrobe and worktable. To the left was a large bedroom with a king-sized bed, sitting area and an old fireplace. To the right was a huge bathroom, well appointed, including bathrobes and slippers.

Friendly Native :)

The floors were so slanted that the furniture legs had to be cut to various lengths to keep them level, but it was simply charming. We had windows in every room with a view of the flower-packed inner courtyard. As worn and crooked as the old part of the hotel was, the public spaces were sleek and modern. The atrium cocktail lounge was very pleasant, and the piano music added to the nice ambience. The drink/wine prices were very high compared to other places we stayed on our trip and compared to the nearby restaurants and bars. My husband ordered a second glass of wine which, along with the server, never appeared. We took it as our cue to leave and find a place for dinner.

The front staff was helpful with restaurant advice and directed us to very good, non-touristy places to dine each evening. The hotel is situated a little out of the way from the center of town and the area wasn’t the best, but we are walkers and easily walked to both train stations and to all the Lille sights.

Until the 1950s Lille was the capital city of French Flanders. It was the heart of a thriving region during the industrial revolution with its production of coal, machinery, and textiles.

Refreshed & Full of Charm

The city has modernized and has lost its reputation for being a grimy, run-down industrial city. The old industrial buildings have been either demolished and replaced or renovated. The beautiful Flemish-style Great Square (la Grande Place) was cleaned up and pedestrianized, making it an appealing and enjoyable gathering spot. In 1983 Lille became the fourth city in France to open a metro system, which is now the second most extensive system in France after Paris.

A favorable location on the Belgian border and three high-speed rail routes (Lille is less than an hour and a half by high-speed trains from London, Brussels, and Paris) have helped to make the city a European hub and popular tourist town.

Lille Palais des Beaux Arts 

Lille prides itself as an art center, having three fine-quality art galleries within the town and surrounding area. The Lille Palais des Beaux Arts is considered one of the most complete provincial art galleries in France. The collection includes works by Raphael, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Goya, El Greco, David, Corot, Courbet, Delacroix, Rubens, Manet, Seurat, and Picasso. Unfortunately, while it is certainly a lovely museum, we weren’t overly impressed. Somehow it just lacked the wow factor we were expecting. Perhaps part of the reason was that we were not able to enjoy all the rooms. As we approached one area, a woman walked up and closed the doors saying they would be reopened at 2:00pm, no explanation was given. Since it was 11:00am, we did not wish to wait the three hours and were thus denied access to a good portion of the museum. I think this was inappropriate, as we paid to see the entire collection and weren’t given notice of any closures.

Basilica of Notre Dame de la Treille Exterior

Located in Villeneuve d'Ascq (Metro 1), the Lille Metropolitan Area Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is one of the best in France and offers a varied collection of paintings and sculptures including works by Braque, Picasso, Klee, Kandinski, Miro, and Modigliani. Many of the sculptures are located outside the museum in the gardens.

Basilica of Notre Dame de la Treille Interior

The Piscine (Swimming Pool) art gallery in Roubaix (Metro 2, Tramway R) is the most unusual of the three Lille galleries. It is housed in and around the town's former Art Deco public swimming pool, which originally opened in 1932. The pool is now a feature of the museum and is surrounded by sculptures. La Piscine houses a substantial collection of 19th- and early 20th-century French paintings and sculptures including works by Fantin-Latour, Ingres, Bastien Lepage, as well as lesser-known artists.

There are two other art galleries near Lille. The Louvre Lens is a subsidiary of the Paris Louvre and resides in the former mining city of Lens, and the Matisse Museum can be found a bit further away in the small town of Le Catteau.

Vieille Bourse, Old Stock Exchange

The Basilica of Notre Dame de la Treille is beautiful and worth a stop. The construction of the Cathedral began in 1856 and ended, after numerous alterations, with its reopening on December 19, 1999. The Gothic-Revival style church was built to honor the Virgin Mary and was named for a 12th-century statue of Mary that was protected by an iron trellis. The statue was believed to have had miraculous powers. The more modern façade is not like most of the grand cathedrals found throughout Europe, but the soaring interior with its richly decorated altar and stained-glass windows is just as lovely as any cathedral.

La Grande Place

Old Lille is a joy to wander with its restored Flemish-influenced houses on crooked cobblestone streets. La Grande Place, the Main Square in town, is a favorite meeting place for locals. It is stunning and shows off a variety of architectural styles from the 17th to the 20th century. The square’s centerpiece is the Vieille Bourse, Old Stock Exchange, built from 1652 to 1653. It is the town's finest building made up of twenty-four little houses surrounding an arched courtyard. Another attractive building is the Théâtre du Nord, which was once used to house soldiers from the sentry guard.

Parc de la Citadelle

Green public spaces and gardens are plentiful in Lille. The largest park is the Parc de la Citadelle with its 123 acres of land. Encircled by the Deûle canal, the park includes the Bois de Boulogne woods that surround the ramparts of the Citadelle. The Citadelle is a massive star-shaped fortress that was designed and built after France captured Lille in 1667. It still serves as a French and NATO military base. The city’s zoo is also a part of the massive park.

Lille has become quite a fashion hub. In addition to the fashion district, great shopping is abundant in the form of nice boutiques in and around the Old Town as well as markets and department stores.

Creperie Beaurepaire

The cuisine of northeast France is rich and comforting with hearty stews, suckling pig, sausages and hams, dumplings, and sauerkraut dishes. Much of the food more closely resembles German and Flemish fare rather than traditional French cooking. An abundance of excellent fish from the Atlantic and freshwater lakes and rivers makes seafood dishes popular too. Fruits and vegetables are produced in abundance and are often served in sweet and savory tarts such as the creamy and well-known quiche Lorraine. Rich cakes are popular, especially Kougelhopf and madeleine sponge cakes.

Fine restaurants are plentiful throughout the city. We visited Creperie Beaurepaire one day for lunch. We were seated in their charming cellar and enjoyed two galettes, one with ratatouille and one with ham and cheese. The staff was pleasant and efficient, the prices reasonable, and we found it to be a really nice experience.

Dinner at Le Barbue d'Anvers

We also had lunch at a smaller café called La Regalade. We just happened upon it when we first arrived in Lille. Our food was very good and reasonable, and our server, who also appeared to be the owner or manager, was very nice to us, helping with directions and pleasantly putting up with my poor French.

One of our evenings we headed off to Le Barbue d'Anvers for dinner. The food was surprisingly good and creative, and the staff was friendly and helpful. I had the sea bass and my husband had the tuna served with a sorbet, which was rather different. Both dishes were delicious. Even though it is situated in the old town center where many tourist spots are located, Le Barbue d'Anvers appeared to be a favorite of locals, but we were made to feel welcome and had a very good time at this fun restaurant.

Loads of Joie de Vivre in Lille

French is, of course, the language of Lille. We did not find that English was as widely spoken as it is in some of the other larger cities in France. We got by fine with my bad French language skills, but visitors should brush up or learn some French to make it a bit easier to navigate the tourist sites and restaurant menus.

Our couple of days in Lille were very enjoyable and were made particularly nice by the welcoming and friendly locals. We were glad to have taken a little detour from Belgium to visit. Traveling was made easy given that both countries are part of the European Union, use the Euro (€), and are connected by high-speed trains. Our next and final stop on this trip was Brussels and we took a high-speed train that got us there in no time. I’ll talk about our visit there in a later post.